Help major tranny leak

Austin86250

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any tips for the cross member bolts the ones that are just under the floor boards? I'm having some difficulty getting those out going to pick up some clearance wrenches in effort to combat
 

Nero

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I usually just take the nuts off and leave the bolts in the frame. They can be a real pain to get out.
 

Austin86250

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YES! got it out finally does this tell me if it’s coming from the torque converter seal or the front pump seal?
 

Austin86250

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Call me stupid but is it ok to run it with no trans? Would love to see it running with no trans but if it hurts something I won’t
 

Big Bart

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YES! got it out finally does this tell me if it’s coming from the torque converter seal or the front pump seal?
The pics are a little inconclusive. It shows signs of the torque converter seal leaking pretty good. But there appears to be ATF on the left side of the pump housing from top to bottom. Could be the leaking TC seal leaked, the the TC flung it up there. Could be the pump seal is leaking top down. Could be oil or diesel that leaked down the engine and then the bell housing.

I am no C6 expert. Pulled a few, never rebuilt one. But I would call a couple tranny shops and ask if it is straight forward to pull the pump and reseal. If so do both, if not easy to do the pump seal ask how much for them to do it. Maybe put it back in with the new TC seal and re-access. My guess is the TC seal was the the gusher.

Maybe some members who have tried or accomplished doing the pump seal so can weigh in. At this point it would be diligent to replace both vs doing the TC to find out you have to pull the tranny again.

Maybe a buddy with a truck can run you by a couple tranny shops for input. Or to pay them to do it.
 

Austin86250

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that is diesel on the left side from when i turned my pump up and broke the gasket and ran it with the broken gasket
from the research I've brought up it sounds quite hard to do the front pump
{Somehow stand the transmission on the output shaft so the pump is facing up.

Remove the pump retaining bolts.
Tap 2 oppossing holes in the pump body with a 3/8 NC thread.
Tighten the band adjusting screw.
Install a slide hammer into the tapped holes.
As the slide hammer is being used push down and keep pressure on the input shaft.
This will keep stuff from falling apart inside.

Once the pump has been removed take it apart.
Pay attention to how the gears are installed before you remove them.
There is a gasket and square cut "O" ring to replace along with the seal.
Use a screw driver and tap the seal out.

Apply a bit of sealant to the outside of the seal only.
Reassemble the pump.
Clean any caked on gasket material from the case.

Install 2 5/16" guide studs into the case.
Place the gasket over the studs.
Install the "O" ring.
Apply some atf or light grease to the "O" ring, no sealant.
Loosen the band adjuster screw.
Carefully install the pump.
Torque the bolts to 16-30 foot pounds.
Lay the transmission down and adjust the band.
Torque the adjuster screw to 10 foot pounds and back it off 1 to 1 1/2 turns.}
 

IDIBRONCO

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It is OK to run without a transmission.
To add a little more to this, before you run the engine, put a jack underneath the oil pan and tilt the engine back up to about the position it would be in if the transmission is in place. Your radiator fan will be resting against the fan shroud if you don't. You won't damage the oil pan by doing this since you're just tilting the engine instead of actually trying to lift much weight.
 

Austin86250

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i already have the engine supported with a jack and a 4x4 on the oil pan, took all the precautions as this was my first time pulling a trans
 

Austin86250

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man hearing it running whit open manifolds was worth pulling the trans alone
 
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