Heater core

RGMS4X4

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I changed mine last year. Wasn't bad at all. Only thing is I bought a cheapy from auto zone. It fit just fine but the fins were spaced farther apart. The old one worked great this new one takes for ever to warm the cab. I have heard that we should stick with the F*rd part. It takes more $$$$ but it IS worth it.

That's my 2 cents
 

argve

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It will take you about 20 mins start to finish to replace it. I used a cheapie from the local auto parts store - heated like the OEM ford I took out - but not at first mind you. I did not the the cable put back into the clip properly when I buttoning her up and so when I would slide the temp control lever over it was not closing the flapper all the way and allowing some of the heat to bypass. Once I figured that out I was warm. The one I got from Napa looked just like the one I took out except for the Ford Oval stamped in it - funny thing was I bought the expensive one that Napa listed thinking I would get a part made in the USA but it was made in Mexico and the USA one was the cheapest one. I stuck the more expensive model because it looked just like the original one where as the made in the USA one had the wider fins as mentioned previously.
 

NJKen

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As long as you have factory AC (working or not!) it is a simple job. The core is accessed through the glove box by taking of a small cover in the plenum assy. If you do not have AC the core is in the heater case under the hood and a slightly bigger pain in the butt to change.
Ken
 

argve

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yep... just remove the glove box/door combo. Just unhook the plastic cable deal that acts as a stop for the door, then lower the door all the way down then lift - the hinge will come right apart only thing is the door is now upside down so empty it before you start. Then there are a series of little screws that hold the air box together I believe they are 1/4 inch heads (use nut driver) and then unclip the cable sheath to move it out the way then pull the air box end cover off. Now if you have removed the heater hoses then it will pull out - it's a little tough because there is a foam rubber sealing the inlet and outlet ports through the firewall but it will pull right out. Then when you reinstall just make sure you get the seal back in place on the cover then make sure you pay attention to the dirt mark on the cable sheath so that you get it back in the same position or otherwise you will ride around with a lower heat output - trust me I did not hook mine back up :Q and was cold.

I just lined my floor board with old bed sheets and towels so that if I spilled some coolant it was contained. I did not spill a drop - now had I skipped the bed sheets I would have ended up with coolant in the backseat as well as the front... LOL
 

F350camper

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just a note. If you've changed your heater hoses recently, that leak may be from the hoses not sealing to the core. The factory hoses had a larger outer diameter than most aftermarket. So the factory spring clamps wont seal it properly. Then the coolant seeps through the foam around the hose barbs on the core and drips in the cab. Thought i would pass that along just in case. This is one of those been there done that deals for me.

The simple fix is to use a good quaility worm clamp.
 

The Warden

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As everyone said, the job is almost embarassingly simple. I did it in less than an hour last week (although I haven't re-sealed the box yet; need to pressurize the system and make sure everything's good first). That included removing the glovebox innards, taking pictures, and cleaning things up.

I took pictures of the job, and as soon as time allows, I'm going to put them together with a small write-up...now that I have a digital camera, I'm going to try and do this for every repair task I go through. Might help someone out someday :)
 
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