Headlight mod

[TWeatherford]

Hello guys,
I am getting ready to do the headlight mod to my truck. I want to go ahead and add a fuse block to take power from, so that when I add other stuff later I'll have a nice clean place to take power from. Looking at this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-900171
However, it is only good for 15 amps for each fuse. That seems a little close to my 14.5 amp alternator output. I don't want to be burning them up all the time, especially because that means I'll lose light at the very moment I need it. What do you think? The higher rated ones are much more expensive (unless someone knows of somewhere I haven't looked), and money is tight. However if it must be done its certainly worth it.

Another question. Why wouldn't I want my headlights to be on only when the ignition is hot? I no longer have a chime due to the PO (although I would have removed it myself). I could just power my new fuse box with a relay that is only hot when the ignition is, then I can never leave my lights on. I haven't done it, probably won't but if the girlfriend borrows it or something I don't want things going south.

 

[argve]

The amount of amps that a circuit will pull will be dependent upon the load not the output of the alternator.

The big question is how many amps the lights pull.....

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

WAYTEK WIRE or DEL-CITY both have large selections of fuse-blocks that are ten-bucks or less and well capable of your needs.

Advance-Auto also has two very capable ones; one is a flat-mount six-fuse unit made by BUSS for about ten-bucks, the other is a "stand-up/vertical" stackable/inter-locking unit that has four fuse positions.

I have numerous ones of both types in my truck.

The flat one by BUSS is very simple to hook up, the other type requires a lot of soldering.


The KEY-ON relay would prevent the lights being left on, but I would also have a manual "by-pass/over-ride" switch that took the relay out of the loop, just in case.



Parts Express is the best/cheapest place to but 30/40-amp Bosch type relays and pigtails.

NAPA has a 12-AWG headlight pigtail that is much superior to the wimpy stock one.


Have fun.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The amount of amps that a circuit will pull will be dependent upon the load not the output of the alternator.

The big question is how many amps the lights pull.....

My headlights/Silverstars on several trucks have been on 20-amp fuses for years without blowing one yet; one fuse for BRIGHT and another for DIM.


I don't know exactly the amperage the bulbs draw, but I know that good 12-AWG wire can handle up to a 30-amp fuse and the wire is what the fuse protects.

 

[TWeatherford]

Thanks so much guys. Good point Argve, I should have known that. I think I'll run the 20 amp ones anyway. My dash lights were out again last night, turns out that kills all my running lights. Popped that fuse again, I guess the 7 markers along each running board and 5 on the top of the cab the PO added are causing problems. So I'll fix that too this weekend, and those running boards are coming off.

 

[pafixitman]

Parts Express is the best/cheapest place to but 30/40-amp Bosch type relays and pigtails.

This may be cheaper....
$2.99 relay and base

 

[tuckerd1]

I installed this fuse block. And I've already heard all the comments about it's cost, but I like it and it is quality. 100A block capacity and 30A per circuit capacity. 12 circuits total.

 

[geonc]

clicky here

I have bought and used these with no worries

Got them in the Ford for fan relays and on the 4 wheelers for reverse override/extra lights etc.....

 

[sootman73]

Thanks so much guys. Good point Argve, I should have known that. I think I'll run the 20 amp ones anyway. My dash lights were out again last night, turns out that kills all my running lights. Popped that fuse again, I guess the 7 markers along each running board and 5 on the top of the cab the PO added are causing problems. So I'll fix that too this weekend, and those running boards are coming off.

i had the same seven along each running board and five on top from my PO. i was killing headlight switches every week. the 14 extra lights along the side are what do it. all that extra draw through little 18ga wire. dont know how the PO never had the problem or at least never made the connection.

 

[TWeatherford]

Wow, sweet. I think I'm gonna buy the 10 relays for $25 shipped and just go relay crazy. Thanks for the other suggestions, I'm ready to tackle this one now.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

clicky here

I have bought and used these with no worries

Got them in the Ford for fan relays and on the 4 wheelers for reverse override/extra lights etc.....

That is the best price I have seen yet.

Thanks for posting it.


I didn't want to get too technical; but, for bigger draw circuits, I buy loose relay terminals in bulk from WAYTEK, along with empty pigtail sockets, such that I can crimp/solder in the wire of my choice.

I have even de-wired the pre-wired pigtails and replaced with bigger wire, but I have also got deep puncture wounds to show for my efforts.

 

[TWeatherford]

Well I got geonc's recommended relays, pigtails and all. Put them in, along with a fuse block I got from Autozone. Napa also has the exact same brand one as well. 6 circuits, 30 amps/max/circuit, 150 amps max total. Napa was $18 and autozone was $8. Headlights are now much, much, much better. Tried it out at night, next to Dad's PSD with no headlight mods, and the difference was literally night and day. Can't wait to swap some sliverstars in.

One problem, which was there before. The right healight has a tendency to go dim, back and forth between dim and bright when I hit a bump or something. The right turn signal indicator also comes on faintly, not blinking or anything, when it goes dim. It still does it. Any suggestions?

The right headlight problem happened immediately after my Dad hacked into my harness to get power for a crap electric airhorn, as a practical joke. My tach also quit working at the same time. Dad isn't going to do that anymore. Driving this weekend I stepped on the clutch and forgot to turn off the cruise first (no clutch safety switch), she revved real high and the tach started hesitantly showing about half my rpms. Did that for the rest of the day. After the headlight mod, the tach works perfectly, and did for my 180 mile drive today. I think once I get my electronics to work, I am going to never, ever touch them again. And I'll have some special bullets in my glove box for anyone that does.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

It reads to me like possibly the headlight that is going dim is not sufficiently grounded and therefore seeking it's ground through a turn-signal bulb, thus the signal indicator trying to light up.


When you did the relays, you also INCREASED the wire-gauge for the headlight grounds, didn't you ??

 

[TWeatherford]

When you did the relays, you also INCREASED the wire-gauge for the headlight grounds, didn't you ??

Uhhh, no. That does make sense though.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Uhhh, no. That does make sense though.

If you did not already do so, go to NAPA and request a pair of headlight pigtails for a big-truck, ECHLIN brand, as they already have 12-AWG wires.

The GROUND needs to be at least as big as the HOT and bigger is better; think of the ground as if it were a water-drain; you would always want the drain capacity to be able to carry a larger amount than the pressure-lines were able to supply; it works the same for direct-current electricity; only as much current can flow as the GROUND will allow.