Head studs ...?

93blklightning

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Yes sir, I read here before that the gaskets don't work. So I cleaned her real good, and run a thick bread of red rtv

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Runningaford

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To answer the OP's question on the copper spray, I've used it on both the mechanical fuel pump, and the oil cooler; both are holding up fine. I mainly did it to hold the gasket material in place. I've also read several posters that have used hair spray; I'd assume for similar purposes.

This thread really interests me as I'd like to eventually turbo my engine, perhaps run a larger pump. That being said, I've paid attention to things many have said. I've read one informative poster state that to re-torque head bolts, and I'd assume studs on existing head, and gaskets(of course without removing the heads), is worthless, as it'll end up crushing the existing head gasket(do to age). I realize in this case, the OP has replaced the head gasket, but I've also read many who've not. Is anyone else familiar with this, and does that mean to install studs, you'll be forced to replace the head gasket, when studding an engine out, or can you simply install studs one at a time, torqued to 127ft/lbs?(without damaging existing head gasket?)......And do you simply torque them to that, and forget about clocking them as the factory did?

Second, I've read numerous poster's state that once removing the heads, that flattening(decking?) of the block, and heads are a necessity almost every time, and that without doing this will lead to premature failure of new head gaskets?

I hope what I wrote is clear, and somewhat concise; I don't mean to be a pain, but it seems a lot of this stuff is a matter of personal preference from what I've read.
 

93blklightning

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I torqued my studs to 145 ft lbs. From what I've seen it's really a matter of preference and the amount of boost you intend to run. I have seen one failure in here from torquing to 140 ft lbs, but I think that was due to thread failure in the block.
I would say that as long as you're not exceeding 20 lbs of boost the 125-127 ft lbs will work fine with the ARP studs. As for me, I'm not expecting more than 15-17 lbs of boost (I'd be happy to get that) from my set up. The reason I torqued mine as high as I did is eventually I intend to upgrade my IP to a R&D 90cc, Stage 1 injectors, or the Conestoga equivalent, and a HX35 or 351VGT

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Greg5OH

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go bigger than hx35, she really does choke off the engine under load, unloaded its fine, and lower revs its ok.
Hx40 minimum
 

93blklightning

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Got a little closer today.
I put the transmission back in Thursday (back is still hurting even though I used a jack lol). Today I put the transfer case in, replaced the pinon seal on the rear end, put both drive lines back in, put the thermocouple pack in, and put the block heater in. I'll most likely have to pull the block heater back out and buy a new one. I tried to reuse my old one, which wasn't very old, I think the bolt that screws through into the t piece that holds it in stripped. I'd rather replace it now, than find out it's gonna leak at the worst possible time.

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93blklightning

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Got a little more done Tuesday. Changed the transmission fluid, and transfer case fluid, filled the engine with oil and installed the engine oil filter, hooked up the hoses to and from the hydroboost, reinstalled the shifters.

Gonna try to get back down there tomorrow and finish wiring the engine, gauges, glow plugs, reinstall the radiator support, headlights, radiator, intercooler, grill, hood, and possibly look into installing a transmission cooler for a power steering/hydroboost cooler
Hopefully.......

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93blklightning

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Ok, made a little progress. Slow but sure..... Did I mention slow ?
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93blklightning

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I wound up relocating the drivers side battery to the passenger side. I have the hydroboost on, the only thing I lack putting her back on the road is replacing the block heater (I forgot to do before I put the engine back in), filling with coolant and dca, finishing the wiring for the batteries and fuel pump, and the exhaust

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93blklightning

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Well hell, I got an odd opportunity to work a little on her yesterday.
Adjusted the battery boxes a little, one more and I'll be finished with them.
Put my fuel pump back in (Facet Dura lift transcarrier), and to my dismay, it no longer pumps. It runs, and sounds fine, but has no suction. Before I parked it, it was sucking air bad, with lots of bubbles in the bowl. I thought it may have been a leak in the lines so I replaced them all, then put my Holley red on. Ran fine. Now I no longer have my Holley, so I put the Facet back on, and no joy. I guess the diaphragm was on its way out.

Guess I'll be hunting a new one now....

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93blklightning

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Funny thing happened yesterday, I finished my battery boxes, installed my batteries, installed my new block heater, and filled her with coolant and DCA.

Turned the switch on, and the fuel pump started humming, as I mentioned before. Not pulling, or pumping fuel, just humming. Then all the sudden, the hum changed its tone. I walked over and checked, and she was pumping?!?

So I look under the truck, just out of curiosity, and I couldn't believe it. The friggin brand new block heater was leaking like hell. Guess I'm going to have to take it out, take it back, and try again. This time with water, not expensive coolant!

So I bled her off and tried to start her but nothing. After several attempts, I tried a gas rag. After several more attempts with the gas rag.I had a brain fart, and hit the glow plugs........ Bad idea.

Got lucky, no damage, just a small back fire, but still no joy.
I don't think the pump is pushing the right pressure. When I hit the bleeder valve fuel just barely runs out. Guess I'll order a new one anyway

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93blklightning

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Anyone ever run a thin bead of RTV around their heater o-ring to prevent leaks?
Just wondering if it would work

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crash-harris

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Most of what I've seen is people tapping then for a NPT plug to delete them. No leaks then. Mine is still there and hasn't leaked :dunno
 

93blklightning

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Yeah, I seen that also.
It's kinda a necessity here though. I'm not saying it's a have to have to start her if everything is working right, but it was around 15° last night. It would be a slow murder to fire her up that cold, with oil that thick

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