Hello. I have recently finished motor pull done on my 90 250 Since then I have put a cupple hundred miles on it and it has done great. I put new injectors in and fixed the glow plug system and once it’s running it seams to run a lot better than it ever has before It had a tendency to die goin down the road before but I got that fixed. So it seams like the last thing that’s wrong with it is it’s hard starts. Almost like it’s losing prime or something. It will not start without my foot pushin 3/4 down on the the pedal. And it takes a good bit for it to start. Once it has ran and got warm for a while it starts a lot easier but still not quite like it should be. Before I did my put new injectors in and did my work to it It would start like nothin. Didn’t have to give it any pedal at all. I did remove the injection pump but didn’t mess with anything. Just put it back on the way it came off but am wondering if this has something to do with it. Any suggestions or help is appreciated
Hard starting for my 7.3
- Thread starter Cheesy
- Start date
NeverHave-I-Ether
Full Access Member
If you removed your pump and put it back on, first thing you should recheck is your timing. That's what comes to mind for me...
Never-Have-I-Ether
Never-Have-I-Ether
How to I go about checking my timing ? The glow plugs are brand new so I’m confident it’s not them. And I’m pretty sure it’s not air as it’s all new Fuel return lines and O rings and such. At one point I did have air in it but pretty sure I’ve got it fixed.
I think I found where I messed up
That’s the markings on my pump and ip gear housing there not lined up perfectly. But dummy me didn’t line up cylinder 1 to tdc. So I don’t know where my pistons where at when I took the pump off and put it back on so I don’t know if I should just leave it where it’s at now
That’s the markings on my pump and ip gear housing there not lined up perfectly. But dummy me didn’t line up cylinder 1 to tdc. So I don’t know where my pistons where at when I took the pump off and put it back on so I don’t know if I should just leave it where it’s at now
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Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Cheesy,
I too would suggest you look at your timing. Leaky injector return lines generally cause a hard cold start but once running and warm they usually start right up as long as it does not sit for another 4-5 hours.
Highly recommend you buy a $200 timing device and do it right.
If not in the budget then you can use the lines in your picture. Move the pump a dimes width and try to start. Repeat till it seems to start good and has plenty of power. I would go towards the passenger fender first. But if it gets worse back up towards the drivers side.
Some other thoughts
1) Make sure the glow plugs get power.(WTS light stays on for 8-15 seconds.)
2) If you did not, replace the rubber hose from the fuel line to the lift pump.
3) Watch to make sure nothing is leaking diesel. Hard lines, soft lines, or injector caps. You can spray brake clean to degrease if needed.
4) If your timing is on and your cold start IP advance is working your truck will clatter really loud for 30-60 seconds when you start the truck.
I too would suggest you look at your timing. Leaky injector return lines generally cause a hard cold start but once running and warm they usually start right up as long as it does not sit for another 4-5 hours.
Highly recommend you buy a $200 timing device and do it right.
If not in the budget then you can use the lines in your picture. Move the pump a dimes width and try to start. Repeat till it seems to start good and has plenty of power. I would go towards the passenger fender first. But if it gets worse back up towards the drivers side.
Some other thoughts
1) Make sure the glow plugs get power.(WTS light stays on for 8-15 seconds.)
2) If you did not, replace the rubber hose from the fuel line to the lift pump.
3) Watch to make sure nothing is leaking diesel. Hard lines, soft lines, or injector caps. You can spray brake clean to degrease if needed.
4) If your timing is on and your cold start IP advance is working your truck will clatter really loud for 30-60 seconds when you start the truck.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
There's only one way to install an IP so it doesn't matter where your pistons, cam, etc. are at. The lines mean absolutely nothing anymore. You can line them up to get the engine running, but after that, you'll need to have it checked or at least experiment with changing it yourself.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Quick question, did you remove the pump from the timing gear cover thus only the pump itself came off.(What IDIBronco and I are assuming) Or did you pull the pump with the timing gear cover? In which case you may have a timing gear issue.
Just the pump. I never paid it much mind but I just finished fulling with it. I realized my conception on how the timing and pump worked was flawed so I was unknowingly talking out of my butt a little earlier. Just finished advancing it as you suggested and already started much easier. Will have to run it a few days to confirm but think that did it for. Navy I will see mpg go up if it’s running like it aught to. Thanks
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
My opinion is that you shouldn't assume that it's set right because it's starting better. You should experiment with it some more. Maybe you can fine tune it a little bit better. Then again, maybe it's where it needs to be right now. You won't know unless you do some more adjusting.
