Gunson 7708 Timing Adaptor

Old Goat

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The Gunson may be similar to the Ferrett.
I have the Ferrett and use the Nova model 3568
Timing Light. It has the Advance and Tach.
Push a button and change`s the timing to where
you want it set to.
Bought the Nova off Amazon or E-Bay.

Here is a YT Vid showing how to use the Ferrett set up.
He shows how to use a
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Goat
 
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divemaster5734

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One reason I like the DTI Tech-Time 3300 is that, based on what I've read, the founder of DTI is the same guy who invented the transducer that attaches to the injector line. These units still show up on Ebay for a decent price once in a while--supposedly new/unused one for $350 right now. Blue Point offers an adapter but it costs almost as much as the Tech-Time and you still need a timing light with advance.
Have you had any issues with operation?
There's batteries installed that have a constant drain, are those easily replicable?
DTI only honors the warranty if purchased through them, or an authorized dealer.
There's a ebay vendor that offered a nice discount, but I doubt DTI would honor the sale.
Having a problem balancing a great deal with the potential of a worthless item.
 

divemaster5734

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No batteries. The meter has power and ground leads that clip onto the vehicle's battery.
Could be. I went to to the DTI website to make sure the unit I'm thinking of buying would be covered and read this: "The battery is low draw, but the display is always ON and the battery life is being used up. Use the label to estimate the age".
Then realized they were talking about the Tiny Tach, and they don't even mention the 3300-S in their warranty.
The kit I'm considering only comes with a 1/4" transducer, I thought the 7.3 lines are 5/16".
Did you have to get their 8 or 10mm transducer?
 

MtnHaul

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This is what I bought about 5 years ago so the price was a lot lower, https://www.ebay.com/itm/266660537286 . I measured an extra line I have and 1/4 seems to be correct. I know it's a lot of money for a seldom used tool but there is no substitute unless another forum member lives nearby and is willing to share. If you weren't so far away I would gladly lend out my setup. Maybe this site should resurrect & update the timing registry?
 

gandalf

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The kit I'm considering only comes with a 1/4" transducer, I thought the 7.3 lines are 5/16".
Did you have to get their 8 or 10mm transducer?
I had the same concern, 1/4 vs 5/16. Then I noticed that the transducer clamp was marked in millimeters rather than inches. (This is to the best of my recollection. Its been several years.) I got out my trusty calculator and ran the conversion, and it came out right. After I sanded the hard line the clamp fit perfectly and picked up a good signal, after I played with the ground a bit.
 

divemaster5734

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This is what I bought about 5 years ago so the price was a lot lower, https://www.ebay.com/itm/266660537286 . I measured an extra line I have and 1/4 seems to be correct. I know it's a lot of money for a seldom used tool but there is no substitute unless another forum member lives nearby and is willing to share. If you weren't so far away I would gladly lend out my setup. Maybe this site should resurrect & update the timing registry?
Exactly my point, if I'm reading that code correctly it was made 1st quarter of 1986, or 1st of 1980.
Probably never used, but I don't know if I could register for their warranty.
I'm probably overthinking it.
One of the other ebay vendors made me an offer dropping it down to $215.
 
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IDIBRONCO

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"The battery is low draw, but the display is always ON and the battery life is being used up. Use the label to estimate the age".
Then realized they were talking about the Tiny Tach,
To add to this, I had a Tiny Tach on a four wheeler. I was told that it had a 5 year battery. It lasted for more then 10 years before it quit working.
 

MtnHaul

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Here's another site selling Tach & Time $240 https://real4wd.com/product/tool-kit-engine-timing-dynamic/

I guess I have taken a chance on a lot of old stuff here and there but so far almost everything has worked out. It's not like new stuff has an incredible track record either. I guess it's save money & no warranty or pay more and get a warranty. My Tach & Time was clearly new and unused with everything neatly packaged in clean bags with all sensor cables looking as though they had never been uncoiled since initial packaging. No smudges on the white cable jackets. The only issue I had was even after scraping out and sanding the interior of the probe receptacle above the damper I needed to remove the spring from the exterior of the magnetic probe in order to get it close enough to the damper.
 

ttman4

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To add to this, I had a Tiny Tach on a four wheeler. I was told that it had a 5 year battery. It lasted for more then 10 years before it quit working.
So what can we do when battery goes down? How/where do we go to find new battery?

I EBay bought mine 4-5 yr ago when they were selling several, IIRC I snagged mine for $180-$190 BO & they took it. I better ck to see how my battery is.
 

IDIBRONCO

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So what can we do when battery goes down? How/where do we go to find new battery?
I believe that we're talking about two different types of things here. Even through the dealer, the Tiny Rack that I had wasn't anywhere even close to costing $100. This type, you get another tach as far as I know. The one that I had was similar to model# DTT-2605. It says right in the description that it's a 5 year lithium battery and it's not replaceable. That's the only thing that I saw on their site that is called a Tiny Tach.
Just a fair warning, from my experience, the DTI unit does not work with the aftermarket stainless steel injector lines.
That's good information to know.
 

MtnHaul

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Just a fair warning, from my experience, the DTI unit does not work with the aftermarket stainless steel injector lines.
What was the problem? I have an aftermarket #1 injector line and was able to get a reading, but I did have to sand the line a bit even with no paint on it and a little WD-40 on the line helped as well.
I would think the problem would be the clamp rather than the entire unit. Anybody use a line clamp from another manufacturer on an aftermarket injector line?
 

Lumberjackchuck

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What was the problem? I have an aftermarket #1 injector line and was able to get a reading, but I did have to sand the line a bit even with no paint on it and a little WD-40 on the line helped as well.
I would think the problem would be the clamp rather than the entire unit. Anybody use a line clamp from another manufacturer on an aftermarket injector line?

Was your injector line stainless steel? My rpm readings would be all over the place once I got above 1200 rpm. Never could get a consistent read. I heard this from other people as well.

I changed it back to the original line on #1 and didn’t have that issue.
 

MtnHaul

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Was your injector line stainless steel? My rpm readings would be all over the place once I got above 1200 rpm. Never could get a consistent read. I heard this from other people as well.

I changed it back to the original line on #1 and didn’t have that issue.
I assume it's stainless as it hasn't rusted. I bought it from Oregon Fuel Injection. I'll try and find time to mess with it and see if I can reproduce my results.
 
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