Great news!!

Jamie

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Got up early this morning and bled the system one more time, also changed out the remaining six glow plugs that were not changed earlier in the week and lo and behold we are burnin' diesel once again. The truck started perfectly. I think I have her licked. Thanks for all the help guys.

This new development leads me to wonder how big a role the glow plugs were playing in my problems. I did test them using the test light method and found two bad ones which were subsequently changed out. Can plugs be bad and still maintain continuity?

Thanks again!!
 

fuzzy1626

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I was told they should read .5 to 1.0 ohm cold. That's what the new ones I have in the shop read. These are on the bench not in the truck. Don't have any bad ones to try.
 

Ford428CJ

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I was told they should read .5 to 1.0 ohm cold. That's what the new ones I have in the shop read. These are on the bench not in the truck. Don't have any bad ones to try.

Thats if you have a nice meter to use. If you have a cheapy (like I do) it may not read right (or accurately). The easiest way to find out is to use a test light! Connect the clip to the +12V side of the post on the battery. Pull the connector off the GP and touch the tip of the test light to the GP terminal. If it lights up, its good. If not, need to replace the GP. JMHO
 

tradergem

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It is possible to have a glow plug internally shorted in which case the test light would still light up but the glow plug would still not work. Jim
 

BigRigTech

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If the GP has any path to ground at all it will heat up but the heat needed to start you 7.3 is gauged on 0.5 - 1.0 ohms. The temp drops way off if the resistance is higher - More resistance, less amperage, less heat and a possible no start. Even having one bad GP can be a real PITA. I had 3 gone in the summer and it was a PITA. I have some issues with the test light method so I prefer the multimeter, show me the numbers...LOL....It's hard to judge the ohm's of resistance looking at a test light bulb for brightness and considering that you are dealing with a very small "good or no good" window of 0.5 -1.0 ohms why put the risk of a no start on your eyes instead of your multimeter....Just my 2 cents for what it's worth.
 

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