Going To Talk to a Shop

Rug_Trucker

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I am tired of looking at the 1993 D350 sitting in the driveway. I am going to talk to a local tractor place that my former step son told me about. Probably take the whole rig there and have them diagnose, and rebuild the injector pump.

I want to do a different fuel pin, and governor spring. I am not wanting to go whack-o crazy. This motor has 375K on it it IIRC (raining right now)

There is seals that can handle bio-mix fuels? What do I ask for? I'm not a fan of bio-fuels as the mileage goes into the toilet for the same price as straight #2.

Allegedly these people know these engines, and have all the tools to test the pump.

Maybe have them "run the rack" while it's there. (adjust the valves)

Is there any visible way to tell if the "killer dowl pin" has been corrected?
 

idiTravelAll

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No idea about the seals but fuel lines you will want to run Larry Bs trident hose for biofuel. KDP only way to tell if its been done is to pull the timing cover, I strongly suggest pulling the radiator and CAC first.
 

idiTravelAll

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240k on mine didn't have the KDP tabbed..
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This think was dealer serviced until I picked it up (232k) and I swear this engine dropped the dowel pin based on the mark that's in the oil pan, I really hope a mechanic was not in the case and failed to tab it.. oh well its done now
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Rug_Trucker

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The local tractor place wasn't interested. Referred me to another place. They guesstimated $500 labor. They were going to farm out the pump rebuild to someone in Columbia TN. Maybe I'll ship it to our member in Texas and install it myself.
 

u2slow

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Does the truck not run? Have a proven injection pump problem? Maybe its something simpler like the lift pump, fuel solenoid, or air intrusion..

A Bosch seal kit, and fuel pin & governor spring kit are not especially costly.

The governor spring upgrade is IMHO more worthwhile than the fuel pin. The stock fuel pin can be rotated 90-degrees to it's most aggressive profile. Bigger injectors tend to reduce the need for an aggressive fuel pin (and setting).
 

Rug_Trucker

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The injector pump had a small leak when I first bought it. New lift pump. Dropped the tank, it was clean.

It would die at the stoplights. Last time it ran it was just sitting there barely idling. It would just die. It required a shot of ether to start.

No idea where the leak was coming from. It's been a couple of years since it has run. Yes I'm aware of the grid heater ether thing. I've always disconnected it before starting.

Not much out there on rebuilding the pump that I found. 1st Gen has a thread. All the pics are now kittens. :(
 

u2slow

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Small pump leaks usually don't matter. You can re-prime with the manual lever on the lift pump.

Sounds like it needs an idle screw adjustment. KSB (cold start advance) may be inop (wire fell off?) If the idle is set low, and you don't give it throttle - it will struggle to start.

6BTs typically start easily above freezing without grids or ether.

I think there's some troubleshooting to do before writing off the IP.

The Bosch gasket kit is DGK121.

Some idea how easy and cheaply you can buy parts...
https://www.amazon.ca/Mover-Parts-Injection-Rebuild-1467010059/dp/B0795D278Z
 

Rug_Trucker

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We did bleed the lines at the injectors. It was beneficial for a short while.

First step will be getting a new battery. I put 50k on it after buying it.
 

Rug_Trucker

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I am going to check the water in the battery today and drop my 3 amp trickle charger on it. We'll see if I can get it up to 12 volts then tomorrow toss the 60amp charger on it and make sure the motor will turn over. If it does, I'll order a battery.

Any recommendations on battery brands?

I have collected the funds to get this mule back to working.
 

Rug_Trucker

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Small pump leaks usually don't matter. You can re-prime with the manual lever on the lift pump.

Sounds like it needs an idle screw adjustment. KSB (cold start advance) may be inop (wire fell off?) If the idle is set low, and you don't give it throttle - it will struggle to start.

6BTs typically start easily above freezing without grids or ether.

I think there's some troubleshooting to do before writing off the IP.

The Bosch gasket kit is DGK121.

Some idea how easy and cheaply you can buy parts...
https://www.amazon.ca/Mover-Parts-Injection-Rebuild-1467010059/dp/B0795D278Z


Those are Canadian parts/prices. I did a search for the parts and found this made in Italy kit https://www.amazon.com/Injection-Ga...-4786-215-8-2---1&vehicleName=1993+Dodge+D350 lots of pretty green Viton O-rings in the kit. Viton=Biofuel resistance.

Knowing my slow moving lazy ass getting a pro to redo the pump is a better route to go.
 

Rug_Trucker

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I got this beast to snort to life. I dropped the battery in it. It turned over. I hit the primer lever on the lift pump and it rattled to life. It's idling fairly good. No leaks. It took a wile to un-freeze the brakes.

It's very sluggish. I got tags and insurance on it. Drove it to the car wash and cleaned it up. Main thing was get the spider webs, oil, and mud daubers off the motor. I hit it with Zep purple degreaser.

I took it for a 10mi ride. Getting it up to 48mph is about all it can do. I did get it to 55 once. It his a small grade and fell on it's face down to 46. I changed the filter, poured the fuel out on the white cardboard box. No junk, no algae either. (saw algae when I first bought it in 2007.)

Not sure where to go from here. I will pull the air filter out if I get home at a decent hour see if a rodent packed the airbox full of crap. If that isn't the problem then it might be a fuel feeding issue. It starts up as soon as you hit the key. A fuel pressure gauge and adapter to check it at the filter mounting plate (I think there is a plug for doing that.)

I got this Hungry Diesel fuel pin and 3200rpm spring. It's the 40HP pin. I will not switch it out until this is running better.
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Price a set of some highway/all season mild lug looking Mastercraft tires. LT235/85R16's for the rear. Some more "highway" looking tires for the front. Unless of course there is something taller. The 20yo Michelins on the back got really bumpy at 55. The front are 7yo Mastercraft. I will switch them out before venturing too far from home. Probably keep one for the spare.
 
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Rug_Trucker

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240k on mine didn't have the KDP tabbed..
You must be registered for see images attach
This think was dealer serviced until I picked it up (232k) and I swear this engine dropped the dowel pin based on the mark that's in the oil pan, I really hope a mechanic was not in the case and failed to tab it.. oh well its done now
You must be registered for see images attach
Is the the hollow looking pin?

Lordy-lordy this is going do be an ed-ja-macation!
 

idiTravelAll

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Is the the hollow looking pin?

Lordy-lordy this is going do be an ed-ja-macation!
Its not hollow, if you look in between the 2 larger gears you will see the black bolt and black timing cover alignment pin in the first photo, second one shows the silver "tab" that prevents it from backing out.
 

u2slow

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I got this beast to snort to life. I dropped the battery in it. It turned over. I hit the primer lever on the lift pump and it rattled to life. It's idling fairly good. No leaks. It took a wile to un-freeze the brakes.

It's very sluggish. I got tags and insurance on it. Drove it to the car wash and cleaned it up. Main thing was get the spider webs, oil, and mud daubers off the motor. I hit it with Zep purple degreaser.

I took it for a 10mi ride. Getting it up to 48mph is about all it can do. I did get it to 55 once. It his a small grade and fell on it's face down to 46. I changed the filter, poured the fuel out on the white cardboard box. No junk, no algae either. (saw algae when I first bought it in 2007.)

Not sure where to go from here. I will pull the air filter out if I get home at a decent hour see if a rodent packed the airbox full of crap. If that isn't the problem then it might be a fuel feeding issue. It starts up as soon as you hit the key. A fuel pressure gauge and adapter to check it at the filter mounting plate (I think there is a plug for doing that.)

Diesel autos tend to be sluggish. Especially if engine tuning is stock. What axle ratio? Are you sure the transmission is getting into lockup and OD modes?

Governor spring tends to weaken/stretch with age also.

The group 31 cranking batteries aren't available everywhere, so I've taken to simply buying Interstate from my local parts store. Makes any warranty issue easy.
 

Rug_Trucker

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I doubt the governor spring stretched sitting for 7 years. It goes into overdrive at 35-ish mpg like it always did. Was told the rear was rebuilt. No tag with the ratio on it. 3:54's? Is that normal for automatics? Originally was a hauler for rv trailers. 317K on the clicker. I bought it with 272K.
 
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