Glow Plug Replacement Suggestions

[Daryl4]

I've had this 89 7.3 with 195K for a few weeks now. Now that I got some of the more urgent issues dealt with glow plugs are coming up soon. But I'm concerned, this will be my first time changing glow plugs, I rely on this vehicle currently, I have no idea about the plugs that are in it, and the PO started it on ether.

The plugs that I can see actually look rather ok. They aren't rusted, someone has replaced some of the bullet connectors and they look rather recent. But the rig came with a pile of receipts going as far back as 2004 however not a single one mentions glow plugs. That and all evidence suggests the PO was pretty lacking. Very poor maintenance, poor skills, shortcuts, and cheap parts.

I've read starting these on ether is way bad. But the PO was and did for the test drive start it on ether without unplugging the glow plugs. I don't know if this would effect the plugs themselves but I figure it worth mentioning.

I've got it starting better(power wires to glow plug controller were lose) but with it currently about 50 degrees in the morning it takes a double glow to get it started.

Anyway, the point being that it needs to be done but I can't risk breaking a plug or worse a tip breaking off in the head. I just can't deal with that at the moment. So I'm looking for tips to avoid that. Think I'll start soaking them in PB blaster, but what else? It seems that they should crack loose rather easy and then come out easy. But do they feel different before they break, how much force is too much to risk? etc? For example if they won't come with a 6" ratchet and one vein on my forearm popping should I just wait and soak in PB more?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Thewespaul]

I have had luck soaking with pb blaster days ahead of time and even taking a large socket and putting over the glowplug and giving the head surface some taps to help loosen it more and get the pb blaster in deeper. If you have beru/motocraft plugs you shouldn't have an issue getting them out

 

[Daryl4]

If you have beru/motocraft plugs you shouldn't have an issue getting them out

I'm assuming there's no way to tell visually what is in it currently?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Maybe you can get lucky and see the name on some of the ones that are easier see, but it won't help you tell what the others are. It sounds like you have some/most of the glow plugs burned out. Change them ASAP. Starting without all 8 working, will put the power to the others (is what I was told) and the cheaper ones will swell faster. I've seen worse than ether. Once back in about 2003, I was helping a contractor out on the weekends. We were working at a new housing construction site. In the evening, when it was cold, another contractor went over to his truck and lifted the hood of his Ford crew cab. He pulled the air cleaner lid off and got out a gas can. He poured gas inside and put the lid back on. Ok, I thought, the carb has issues. OH NO! It was an IDI and when he started it, I REALLY thought that a rod was coming out of the side of the block. It was knocking that loud. I doubt it lasted too long that way and I'm sure that the new truck or new engine was MUCH cheaper than a new set of glow plugs. Or not!

 

[Daryl4]

Thanks for the advice so far. I've ordered up a set of ZD9s, $69.99 delivered on Amazon, I think it's a deal. They should be here some time next week. Until then, nightly PB blasting.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes. That's a good deal.

 

[The FNG]

For what it's worth, spend some extra money and get aerokroil. It works some serious magic on rust and carbon build up. I recently had an opportunity to clean up some parts and tried to use PB Blaster. Soaked it overnight with little success. Sprayed aerokroil on it and within seconds stuff was melting off.

Another side note, I had major glow plug problems for a few years. I replaced EVERYTHING except for the harness/connectors. It turns out my bullet connectors were corroded and were causing my plugs to burn out. Make sure you check those and repair them if necessary.

 

[Daryl4]

For what it's worth, spend some extra money and get aerokroil. It works some serious magic on rust and carbon build up.

I keep hearing great things about that stuff but have never come across it for sale locally. So I just ordered some online, I'll give it a go.

 

[79jasper]

I think fastenal carries it. But definitely cheaper online.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[MtnHaul]

+1 for Kroil. The PO of my truck had installed Autolites and a couple were very, very tight--but lots of patience, Kroil soaking, and gently working the plugs out yielded no broken plugs and zero frustration.

 

[Daryl4]

gently working the plugs out

I'd appreciate if you could elaborate on this?

 

[DaveBen]

Most threaded items will come out if you take it easy. Back it out 1/8 to 1/4 run and then go tighter and back it out a little more and go back in. Repeat until it comes out or breaks (hopefully not). You will develop a "feel" for the threads. Good Luck and remember to Take it Easy.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Definitely use a Six point 3/8" or 10mm deep socket on the GP's, a 12 point socket can strip the hex on the GP's if they come out hard. Always use NEVER SEIZE or like product on the threads when installing new. Some Brands coat the threads so they won't rust. Motorcraft/Beru ZD9 is best to use.

 

[Thewespaul]

I like to use a 1/4" ratchet as well, makes is harder to snap them off in the head

 

[OLDBULL8]

Another suggestion. GP's have an angle seat for sealing, if you can break that seal a couple of thousandth (1/4 turn) and it's stuck, then use PB Blaster or Kroil, move onto the next one while that one is soaking, and so forth.