NMB2
Dunce
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400+ hp? I know what can be done with a big diesel engine but wondered why nobody really does an IDI. Keep us posted!!
i would be interested in your parts depeneding on the cost. i for wont your type of turbo..Why cryo the rods and stuff your posting about. Those parts are plenty tuff in the stock configuration especially the crank caps. Nobody has blown a crank out the bottom but Ken when he was making more hp that your plans.
because cryo treating is a very cheap insurance, that I get even cheaper with my hookups. Nobody has blown these parts up, but nobody else has made the power I am. according to ken, neither did he. It will also leave room for more later if I choose to try to push it more. Its a total of about $50 extra to not worry about it.
Run a set of turbo rods and a custom set of turbo ceramic topped pistons. Maybe mill 15 off the top of the Mahle lo comp postons.
If I use turbo rods, I would have to use 7.3 pistons. I don't want a 7.3. Please correct me if I'm wrong and I can get a 6.9 piston to accept 32mm pins.
Porting and ceramic coating what you posted will help as much if not more than the porting.
absolutely, I have always been big on ceramic coating manifolds and wrapping pipes, it makes a huge difference in your power numbers, especially on forced induction.
Now about a set of 6.9 heads on a 7.3.... You are going to have to drill out the bolt holes in the heads.
yep, to accept the 1/2" studs, I'm tracking on that.
Now why are you going to use a stock na 7.3 block.... A turbo block may be a better platform for what you plan on. I now a turbo block is harder to find.
Because I'm assuming that the new 92-94 truck I buy will probably be N/A. Is there a difference between the turbo block and the n/a block? Other than the rods/pistons?
These are all friendly suggestions and questions. Your going to at least try something... Keep us posted because there will be plenty of watchers.
Because I'm assuming that the new 92-94 truck I buy will probably be N/A. Is there a difference between the turbo block and the n/a block? Other than the rods/pistons?
OK, since you are gauging interest I will throw my less than 2 cents in.
You will see that lots of people are "interested". Of those maybe 30% will ever throw down any cash towards making bigger power. Of those 30%, I would guess that only 1% will want to do a full on power build like you are contemplating. Most will just want to be able to 'bolt on' and go. (No sense pulling one of these motors if its still running good.)
Personally I would be interested in a "Stage 1" type kit that would put down 550-600 ft lbs. I'm more interested in what the torque is at or near 2000 rpm than at peak rpm.
OK, since you are gauging interest I will throw my less than 2 cents in.
You will see that lots of people are "interested". Of those maybe 30% will ever throw down any cash towards making bigger power. Of those 30%, I would guess that only 1% will want to do a full on power build like you are contemplating. Most will just want to be able to 'bolt on' and go. (No sense pulling one of these motors if its still running good.)
Personally I would be interested in a "Stage 1" type kit that would put down 550-600 ft lbs. I'm more interested in what the torque is at or near 2000 rpm than at peak rpm.
