Gauges installed...... These numbers don't seem right

[whiteboyslo]

I finally got around to installing some new gauges today that I got for Christmas. I put them in a Autometer 3-gauge pillar pod from an OBS that I had to trim (pretty happy with the results considering I usually suck with anything that requires freehand). I'll post up pics once I put on the finishing touches. Gauges are:

Banks boost gauge (0-15 psi)
Autometer digital EGT (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=3664)
Autometer digital water temp (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=3674)

I'm a little concerned about the water temp. I've only done about 10 miles of city driving (outdoor temps in the 50s), and I seem to be running right at 200-205. Idle is right at 205, creeps up maybe a degree. I installed the sensor in the head just behind the AC pump (the port where the sensor for the ENGINE TEMP light normally goes). Coolant is fresh and I'm running a Champion 3-row radiator. I know the thermostat in our trucks doesn't pop off until 195 or so, but doesn't that seem high? Given Autometer's rep, I would hope the gauge is accurate enough. FWIW, the OE gauge sits right at 'O'.

EGT seems off, but I know what the problem is there. The gauge came with a probe, but it wasn't going to work in the location Banks uses and I didn't feel like tapping the manifold. Instead, I cut the probe off the Autometer harness and wired it into the wiring for the Banks pyro (just replaced the probe a few months ago). They're both K-type gauges and I didn't solder the wires or anything, but I know you lose some accuracy when you splice thermocouple wires, especially when they're not the same material (Banks is copper wire, Autometer is aluminum). Temps seem to be about 150 degrees lower than what I was getting with the Banks gauge. Not sure how I'm going to remedy this. There's got to be a way to get the Autometer gauge to work right with a pyro in the Banks location, no? Any ideas?

Mike

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

the pyro leads can not be altered at all. were does banks have it's pyro? drilling and tapping the manifold is not hard at all.

 

[Blind Driver2]

the pyro leads can not be altered at all. were does banks have it's pyro? drilling and tapping the manifold is not hard at all.

So easy even a caveman can do it.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

lmao^^^^^^

 

[franklin2]

Your temperature gauge is reading exactly the same as mine, and I have been running my setup for about 2 years now. I have a non-turbo 7.3, the aluminum ebay radiator, and have my temp probe in the driver's side head just like yours. I still have my factory temp gauge hooked up and working, and it reads the same as it always has. I think you are ok, the coolant is just a little hotter in that location.

 

[stumiister]

I'm a little concerned about the water temp. I've only done about 10 miles of city driving (outdoor temps in the 50s), and I seem to be running right at 200-205. Idle is right at 205, creeps up maybe a degree. I installed the sensor in the head just behind the AC pump (the port where the sensor for the ENGINE TEMP light normally goes). Coolant is fresh and I'm running a Champion 3-row radiator. I know the thermostat in our trucks doesn't pop off until 195 or so, but doesn't that seem high? Given Autometer's rep, I would hope the gauge is accurate enough.

Mike

I installed some aftermarket guages in my truck before I changed the thermostat in my truck the coolant temp was about 190*, after I changed the thermostat and cleaned the little check ball in the thermostat housing the coolant temp dropped to about 180*, so if it were me I would check the thermostat and see if it is the proper one for our trucks. Also the factory temp guage is no more than a glorified idiot light but FWIW my temp guage would also be on the "O" or higher before the thermostat change now it is on the "N" or the "O".

 

[kc0stp]

200-205 is right about where you want a diesel to be at, IMHO anything under 195 is to cold for these engines

 

[chris142]

The stat begins to open @195 and should be fully open @ 210-215. Temp going up @ idle is usually a weak fan clutch

 

[whiteboyslo]

Hmm. Sounds like my temps are exactly where they should be then, at least for coolant.

Mike

 

[laserjock]

Type k theremocouple wires should not be copper. It's a pair of wires that are a chromel and alumel which are actually both mostly nickel. It's the resistance at the junction that gives you the temperature sensitivity. Extending the wires with copper can cause a calibration error. I don't remember off the top of my head what it is for sure but I think it is like 2* C per foot. Don't quote me on that number. So if you have copper wire in your system of any length it will cause a calibration error. The relative readings should be okay (temp increased by 50 degrees for example) but the absolute reading will be off.

 

[jaluhn83]

I see ~192* during normal operation climbing to 200-210 under load. My sensor is in the upper of the 2 port on the front of the driver's head and I have a high temp switch (set at 225*) in the lower port.

 

[whiteboyslo]

I see ~192* during normal operation climbing to 200-210 under load. My sensor is in the upper of the 2 port on the front of the driver's head and I have a high temp switch (set at 225*) in the lower port.

When you say 'upper', do you mean the port near the front of the engine (closest to the front of the truck), or the one back near the rearmost cylinders? And what does the switch do? Do you have electric fans?

Mike

 

[jaluhn83]

There's 2 ports at the front there. One is on the head and the other is lower down under the AC compressor. Might be in the block actually, I can't remember. I think the upper is the stock temp sensor and lower is the stock over temp switch.

The switch is connected to the overtemp light and a big red warning light on the center bezel that is also wired to a low coolant level system and low oil pressure switch.

 

[franklin2]

Type k theremocouple wires should not be copper. It's a pair of wires that are a chromel and alumel which are actually both mostly nickel. It's the resistance at the junction that gives you the temperature sensitivity. Extending the wires with copper can cause a calibration error. I don't remember off the top of my head what it is for sure but I think it is like 2* C per foot. Don't quote me on that number. So if you have copper wire in your system of any length it will cause a calibration error. The relative readings should be okay (temp increased by 50 degrees for example) but the absolute reading will be off.

You are correct, the copper wire will throw the readings off, but the two different types of metals actually generate a tiny voltage at their junction. That's what the input to the temp gauge is reading, that tiny voltage not resistance(almost like a battery).

 

[laserjock]

Yes sir. You are correct. My appologies. It is a voltage created by the junction. I mis-spoke.

I find it interesting that these things are all like type k thermocouples. I would have guessed they would be RTD's or something to deal with the specialized wire problem. Good to know. I know how to deal the thermocouples. Brings interesting thoughts to mind.