Fuel Selector Valve Inspection

92LongBed

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I took apart my FSV and it dumped a lot of fuel out and I wanted to see if y’all had any opinions on the inside inspection. IDK what i’m looking for as far as broken parts go this one looks to be in good shape but I did notice the black rectangle on top of the suction mechanism was partially closed and the movement of the suctions was limited. now if i screw the black rectangle all the way out the suction action moves MUCH MORE and if i screw it all the way down the suction action does not move at all. I’m not sure where this is supposed to be but hopefully someone here can help.

I threw some WD-40 and levered the suction action about 100x to clean up any debris or potential sticking as well.

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92LongBed

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The suction ports on the FSV do not let me blow air through them until I screw the black rectangle so far out that the suction mechanism cannot move. i guess that is leaving the air and open way in and out. levering the suction mechanism in all sorts of positions i cannot feel any air going through whatsoever so not sure how the fuel tanks swap with this device.
 

Old Goat

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The old thread you dug up..

"At my witts end....

I posted..... (Maybe you didn` read it it?)

There should not be liquid inside where the motor is. I assume Diesel?
There is the Chicom Electric motor and 2 printed Circuit boards as I remember.
The side that has the pipe nipp-le`s is the valve 1/2 of the FSV. maybe there is an "O" Ring leaking?
Most likely need a new FSV?

Here is what "Number Dummy" a retired Ford parts manager has to say about these FSV,


Goat
 
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92LongBed

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"At my witts end....
I posted..... (Maybe you didn` read it it?)

There should not be liquid inside where the motor is. I assume Diesel?
There is the Chicom Electric motor and 2 printed Circuit boards as I remember.
The side that has the pipe nipp-le`s is the valve 1/2 of the FSV. maybe there is an "O" Ring leaking?
Most likely need a new FSV?

Here is what "Number Dummy" a retired Ford parts manager has to say about these FSV,


Goat
thank you for replying. i may try to take this one apart further but ultimately i will probably look to order a new FSV but yeah they’re a hot ticket item for replacements so that is a costly move. i will look into third party replacements and see which have had the best success to save some money.

maybe switching to one large tank is in my future. chasing air intrusions has not been fun. i miss driving my truck!
 

Old Goat

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That thread link I posted is from 2012.
What ever prices shown are from Ford.
The market is flooded with Chicom FSV in the $50 range, E-Bay Amazon etc...

Installed the 38 gal rear new sender as well as the front tank and new FSV. Ran mostly off the rear but would switch to front once in a while.
Then the stupid thing acted up...long story, pulled fuel from rear, and return went to the front, which eventually was leaking onto the ground.

Long story #2...but now run rear tank to engine, and return goes back to rear tank with FSV now out of the system. Front tank runs up to the engine compartment to an Electric Fuel Pump.
It is to be a transfer pump to the rear tank, that is when I finally get it wired up.

The Yellow/blue wire as i remember is from the rear sender. I connected it to the yellow/white wire (using a weather pack plug) which runs up to the dash switch, and onto the fuel gauge. So now the gauge always reads the rear tank level.

Goat
 

92LongBed

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That thread link I posted is from 2012.
What ever prices shown are from Ford.
The market is flooded with Chicom FSV in the $50 range, E-Bay Amazon etc...

Installed the 38 gal rear new sender as well as the front tank and new FSV. Ran mostly off the rear but would switch to front once in a while.
Then the stupid thing acted up...long story, pulled fuel from rear, and return went to the front, which eventually was leaking onto the ground.

Long story #2...but now run rear tank to engine, and return goes back to rear tank with FSV now out of the system. Front tank runs up to the engine compartment to an Electric Fuel Pump.
It is to be a transfer pump to the rear tank, that is when I finally get it wired up.

The Yellow/blue wire as i remember is from the rear sender. I connected it to the yellow/white wire (using a weather pack plug) which runs up to the dash switch, and onto the fuel gauge. So now the gauge always reads the rear tank level.

Goat
Interesting, I do like that sort of system you're building but its probably above my skill level at this point. I do have another instance where I think my FSV is broken but i just assumed my rear tank gauge was wrong, my rear tank reads full now and I dont recall ever filling it bc I usually run front tank as diesel is sky high so I cant really afford to fill 2 tanks at once. I maybe my FSV is just moving fuel into my rear tank as well.

Will be ordering a replacement tonight, trying to avoid having to tie in a new plug to the old wires as the area is saturated with diesel and I dont have a heat gun and cant heatshrink anything without being terrified of exploding. I'll figure it out but may just use those twist cap wire connectors if it gets the job done i can drive it around and the fuel can dry up and it can be safe to make it more permanent.
 

Old Goat

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I use this product, buy if from the $1 store, might be the $1.25 store now with prices going up.

It is called LA Awsome, high concentrated cleaning product. Buy the quarts and put on a pump sprayer, and hose down the whole diesel soaked area. leave it for a while, and hose it off, really helps to clean up oily stuff.


Goat
 

92LongBed

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Update: I think by solving a bunch of other issues I created a new air intrusion somewhere on the top end.

Replaced:
- FSV and rubber/plastic hosing connecting to it and the metal fuel lines w hose clamps
- All injector return lines/o-rings
- return line that goes from back of engine block on drive side down to hard line
- new fuel filter w water separator

These all helped me to get my truck back to starting immediately and idling as if nothing were wrong. sits in my driveway and i’ll run it at RPMs up to 3000 and it does not cough burp fart or budge.

Took it around the neighborhood yesterday and it stalled on me right as i turn into the drive way. then would not start again.

i noticed some dripping somewhere from the fuel filter/housing maybe top of FF or where water separator joins FF. i took the FF off and noticed it was low so i think i have a fuel drawback issue or the leak brings in enough air while driving that it kills my engine after enough fuel is used in the FF to keep me driving for 1-2mins.

when bleeding my truck my schrader valve pulses fuel out, no continuous stream. i spoke to an internet commenter on reddit and he said merch fuel pump operates in pulse so i assume that my mech pump isn’t bad but i would like to test its PSI.

It also could be a bad o ring in the fuel heater connection as i think the drip is coming from that side of the housing.

Truck has no problem starting in driveway with a full fuel filter and idling for at least 10 minutes but died 1x (only time) i drove it 1-2mins, any ideas?
 

92LongBed

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hey man just letting you know i finally solved my air intrusion/fuel leak problem! everything seems to be sealed up now and the truck drives with no issues, going to drive it about 15 miles tomorrw for the true test but took the neighborhood stroll with ease.
 
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