Fuel Mileage

LCAM-01XA

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I used to get solid 20-21 on long interstate trips even on hot days, but I cruise at 1900 rpms and 55-60 mph. Now with my bumper work up front I'd expect a slight drop, but still ought to be in the high teens. These engines really do not like to be revved up, like Ameristar1 said you gotta drive them as if they were a semi - easy on the throttle, low-revv *****, and keep the engine speed below 2000 rpms.
 

Agnem

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Cruising below 2000 RPM is really a major key. If you can't attain that goal, anything else you do will not really help much. Once your out of the torque curve then all your doing is wasting fuel.
 

PwrSmoke

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You know, the one thing people never seem to consider in these discussions are the inaccuracies involved with checking MPGs.

My truck's speedo was off when it was bone stock and brand new! It turned out that 33 inch tall tires corrected it to dead nuts category. Before that, I thought it was getting great MPG because it was indicating more miles (and more mph) than actually driven. By correcting the actual miles driven, I was getting 1 mpg less than I thought I was. Bummer! The error could be the other way too depending on the particular situation.

The other thing is... how many of use sit there and dribble the fuel in to a consistent point every time? We know that diesel foams... and foams more in our trucks than it does in others (design of the filler). Some fuel brands seem to foam more than others too. The point is that it's tough to get the tank consistently filled to the same point every time. To do it requires 15-20 minutes at the pump. If your fill is a half-gallon off from the previous (easy to do, I have found), it throws the mpg off (e.g. 190 miles using 12.1 gal is 15.7 mpg vs 190 mi using 12.6 gal is under 15.1 mpg). I can get two full gallons into my rear tank after the pump shuts off (and foam boils out of the filler) if I dribble it in until it reaches the very top of the filler neck.

My thoughts are that many of the people bragging about great mileage or complaining about poor mileage are not accurately checking their mpg. No insult to anyone is intended, but I see few people **** enough to go as far as needed to be accurate... and I know how **** you have to be! ( : < )

To step up to accurate results, you have to start with an accurate odometer (or discover the correction factor to use with the math) and you need to fill the tank to the same point every time. Or, if you have the means, use some form of instrumentation to check mpg.

I run my truck over a few measured miles (with no turns) until I get a correction factor. If you go exactly 1 mile but your odo indicates only 0.9, a ten percent (0.10) difference, you take your miles at the end of a fuel run and multiply it by 10 percent (0.10) and add what you get to the total. If you went 1.1 miles, you are 10 percent over so you still multiply by 10 percent again, but subtract that result from the total miles.

And then we have all the modifications that can throw things off. If you have a tire size upgrade, or a gear change without replacing the speedo drive gear, it throws the odo off. Wide tires increase rolling resistance. Tall tires and lifts increase aero drag. More weight equals more work for the engine and less mpg. It goes on and on and doesn't include wear and tear from 20-30 year old trucks.

RE the Ford vs GM mpg (I've had both), remember you could get the GMs in a half-ton platform. Look at what a 6.9L does in a lightweight half ton! If you take two 8600# GVW trucks with similar configurations (e.g. 4x4, non overdrive), one a GM 6.2 and one 6.9L Ford, my experience is the Ford is often a little ahead mpg-wise because it makes more torque than the GM so doesn't have to be thrashed as hard in normal driving. Looking at some of my old magazines from the '80s seems to back that up. Something like 15-16 was about the best they got driving normally with a 3/4 ton HD... and that's from odos that were reading optimistically. If all were off like mine, they were getting 14-15 in true life.
 

Agnem

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All very good points. I think the filler neck issue could be resolved through a sufficient number of averages, but I agree that one cannot use one tankfull as a reliable number. Your other points are well made. Tire inflation presure should also be checked each time, as temperature can result in a variation.
 

david85

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I've filled at the exact same pump for most of the time I've owned the truck. I know thier fuel is good and my truck has such a long range that I can avoid road side pumps completely. Never had to drain my water separator so thats reason enough for me to be loyal to the cardlock station. I know the pump and truck so well by now that I can tell when the handle is about to be shut off and if the tank is indeed filled all the way.

I did a "hypermiling thread" on ford trucks.com last summer and averaged 5-6 tanks back to back that all scored 19 MPG or higher with a peak of 22.5.

Just to add to Jim's remarks, you should also conisder what average wind speed and direction can do to affect the MPG numbers. My weekly routine involves ~100 miles in one direction of the highway, then 100 miles back home again on the exact same route. Not once did I get the same MPG results in both directions. There is always a difference.

A good example of this was when I got some crazy high number like 24.9 MPG, but on the way home that dropped to 19 MPG. So the average for that trip was 22.5 MPG. I would love to be able to claim 25 MPG @ 70 MPH, but until it happens in both directions, 20 @ 70 is my claim.
 

LCAM-01XA

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When I stated my fuel economy this is based on GPS readings on long trips. And I mean long, like Detroit to Dallas long - at this point even if I'm off by a few miles or a few gallons, it's sill pretty accurate. Any trip shorter than 500 miles, and I don't even bother to calculate fuel economy.
 

GRU

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ive been real curious as to what the difference is in the precup design between ford and chevy? ive heard it mentioned many times that the gm design yielded better economy. i really know absolutely nothing about precup design theory at all. btw i cant really figure out my mileage. i mix my own fuel 50/50 and store it above in 50 gal drums and gravity feed to fill up. i usually have a place on the gauge that i say ok heres where i fill up. if ive gone 280 miles its roughly 16 mpg. thats all i can gauge. one of these trips ill have to actually fill up at a fuel station. only thing is ill be towing my camper so ill only know my towing mpg. oh well. im assuming im getting around 17 empty.
 

GRU

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of course i also ran out of fuel before "that spot on the gauge" the other week too as noted in the "major power surge" thread...
 

ameristar1

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The Ricardo Comet chamber that was used on the 6.2/6.5 NA motors has a small opening and inner shape that produces a real high spinning action, which improves mixing and combustion. If you were to compare the precups from the 6.2/6.5 NA, turbo 6.5, 6.9 IH and 7.3 IH side by side, and see how their openings are, you'll understand why there's such a big difference mpg wise.
 

PwrSmoke

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The Ricardo Comet chamber that was used on the 6.2/6.5 NA motors has a small opening and inner shape that produces a real high spinning action, which improves mixing and combustion. If you were to compare the precups from the 6.2/6.5 NA, turbo 6.5, 6.9 IH and 7.3 IH side by side, and see how their openings are, you'll understand why there's such a big difference mpg wise.

Having owned and operated both engines, I would disagree with "such a difference." I agree the 6.2/6.5L is somewhat more efficient but if you subject it to heavy work, it's lower power output makes it work harder, so whatever it gains at light loads, it loses with heavy ones. Hence my comments in the post above. Don't get me wrong, I liked mine. It was fantastic under light loads and in a half-ton rig, I got fantastic MPG. But year by year, the Ford was always 30-40 hp and 110 + lbs-ft ahead in the power and torque departments.

If you took a GM 3/4 ton, 6.2L diesel rated to tow a 10K trailer and a Ford 3/4 ton 6.9L diesel with a 10K trailer, the 6.2L would be working much harder and burning more fuel. Run 'em empty, and maybe the 6.2 would be a little ahead but what I saw was just about even-steven MPG solo, with better performance from the Ford.That's with equivalent GVW trucks. The GM half tons, especially with the overdrive trans, whupped butt in the MPG department... no doubt.
 

david85

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The Ricardo Comet chamber that was used on the 6.2/6.5 NA motors has a small opening and inner shape that produces a real high spinning action, which improves mixing and combustion. If you were to compare the precups from the 6.2/6.5 NA, turbo 6.5, 6.9 IH and 7.3 IH side by side, and see how their openings are, you'll understand why there's such a big difference mpg wise.

Um, both engines use recardo chamber precups. The size is relative to the displacement of the engine, so yes, the chevy will have smaller ones because they have to be.

I have yet to see any evidence showing a 6.2 getting better MPGs than a 6.9. As explained earlier, the MPG difference has more to do with gearing and vehicle weight. The 6.2s were available with in lighter 1/2 ton trucks with overdrive transmissions in the 80s, the 6.9s had to wait until 1987 to get overdrive and they were never put in lighter, lower pickups. The ford trucks were geared and built for towing and indeed the 6.9 was the first true workhores diesel to hit the market that wasn't completely underpowered. This means that many of them were geared with 4.10s after the experience with the 6.2. This does not however mean you can't get good MPGs with a 6.9 after "correcting" this gearing disadvantage:sly.

My Dad's 1993 6.5 turbo has never got anything over 18 MPG, and averaged 16 most of the time. He never has to tow anything either since I use mine most of the time. 4.10 gears, I believe (4L80E tranny).

I have heard rumors of 6.2 powered 1/2 ton trucks getting close to 30 MPG, but we have seen a ford F150 right here with a 7.3 getting over 30.
 

spencergt66

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Well i drive 40 miles to work and take the same route both ways ive started to drive the speed limit (65) and running @ 2100 rpm 2-3 psi boost and around 500 on the pyro. Ill see if this tankful is any different. As far as components are concerned Ive got less then 10k on the IP but as for the injectors i realy have no idea.:dunno
 

david85

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Did you set the timing when you installed the new injector pump?

You also might want to have the injectors pop tested to make sure they are not dripping. Generally the injection system is good for 100 000 miles although some make it longer, some less.
 

Diesel JD

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You may never do as well as your GM depending on what platform it was in, but 12 is definitely low. The fuel system needs going through. No need to mess with the pump as long as it runs good. Pull the fuel injectors and have them tested, should pop in the 1800-2000 psi range and be within 50-100 psi of each other, should have a narrow cone shaped spray pattern with lots of "chatter" for lack of a better word. If they are all good but the differences are too high just have them shimmed or "reset" if there are more than a couple bad ones replace them as a set and have them all matched to within 50 psi. After that try and get the thing timed with tools to something like 0.3-0.5*ATDC at 1400 rpm with the luminosity method or 9.5-9.7 BTDC at 2000 with the pulse method. Of course that means a new set of return lines and orings/caps, and of course chase down and eliminate all leaks. That may not make for something you can brag about fuel economy wise but should make it respectable for what it is.
 

spencergt66

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Well the injectors are next on my to do list but if I'm going to go through all that trouble to take the nozzles out I'm just going to go ahead and rebuild them my self and be done with it wouldn't cost more then 75 bucks well that and the price of the return line kit I'm too picky about things to trust someone else's work at least if i do it I know its done right for an affordable price ;Sweet maybe next week if i have some time ill get to it that is if i dont get sent some where does anyone know of a good place to find the timing tools needed for these engines?:dunno
 

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