Fuel line clogged

[Old Goat]

"Anyone have good results with an after market FSV? I saw an inexpensive one while looking at the bronze manual valve ?."

NO.

Bought one of those Chineseum Ford knock off one`s off e-bay.
Great price, but didn`t last long.
Pulled fuel from the rear and returned to the front tank,
which eventually over filled and leaked on the ground.


Goat

 

[Clb]

Chi Merica

 

[franklin2]

I just bought myself the 38 gallon retro fit tank. I am getting rid of the side tank. Might give me room to run a dual exhaust over there also.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Well I have ordwered a replacement FSV from fordpartsgiant.com. It was only $189 plus shipping, instead of $450-$550 on fleabay or elsewhere.

The Ford Part number is

E3TZ9189C​

 

[IDIBOBS]

Geesh that’s a bunch. I just got the one from rock auto for $65 3!years so far zero issue

 

[Knuckledragger]

Did not think to look there, RA shipping has gone up a lot in the last year.

I have the stock fuel lines and connectors, do not know if the barbs on the Standard brand would work.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Update - replaced the FSV with a newer Ford version using hose barbs. Two times under the truck covered with diesel, but finally connected it all. The truck started but ran rough. Did not drive it that day. Next day, I fired it up and let it idle for a minute, it quit again. Now I am guessing it is an electric problem - maybe the tank switch.

Before I changed the FSV, I double checked the engine, starting on a remote fuel source running through the new lift pump. It started and ran fine for 5 minutes. Blew air through the line to the FSV and nothing but fuel and air. I also discovered that one of the return lines/injector cooler lines was cracked and seeping, so I have ordered a new kit. The current lines are as old as the engine rebuild, 15 years.

 

[franklin2]

Update - replaced the FSV with a newer Ford version using hose barbs. Two times under the truck covered with diesel, but finally connected it all. The truck started but ran rough. Did not drive it that day. Next day, I fired it up and let it idle for a minute, it quit again. Now I am guessing it is an electric problem - maybe the tank switch.

Before I changed the FSV, I double checked the engine, starting on a remote fuel source running through the new lift pump. It started and ran fine for 5 minutes. Blew air through the line to the FSV and nothing but fuel and air. I also discovered that one of the return lines/injector cooler lines was cracked and seeping, so I have ordered a new kit. The current lines are as old as the engine rebuild, 15 years.

My truck scared me once, it would do the same thing, crank and crank and finally start, run for a few minutes, and then quit. What scared me was I had plenty of fuel coming out of the schrader valve with a electric pump. So I started thinking there was something wrong with the ip.

Somewhere I stumbled on the return line from the ip can cause problems. Found out if the return system is plugged on the ip, the engine will stall. I took the return line off and put a airhose on it, it initially blew back at me, but then it seemed to clear up and I could hear it boiling in the tank. Put it back together and it has been good ever since.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Well, after two hours today - with hired help - still no go. I got it to start and it ran for 30 seconds before quitting again.

I tried blowing out the return lines, but did not loosen the filler caps first, resulting in some sort of leak down below. It seems like we have some sort of an air intrusion.

The water separator has been by passed, but I doubt it has anything to do with the issue at hand.

The injector pump seeps a little down low at a linkage.

 

[IDIBOBS]

Sounds like for all the work and cost so far you could have just replaced all the supply and return lines, seals got a new lift pump and had it running.

 

[franklin2]

Well, after two hours today - with hired help - still no go. I got it to start and it ran for 30 seconds before quitting again.

I tried blowing out the return lines, but did not loosen the filler caps first, resulting in some sort of leak down below. It seems like we have some sort of an air intrusion.

The water separator has been by passed, but I doubt it has anything to do with the issue at hand.

The injector pump seeps a little down low at a linkage.

I just remembered something I did when troubleshooting. I took the return line off the IP, and stuck a hose to it and ran it in a bucket. The engine kept running like that so that sort of verified it was something in the original return system not working correctly.

During my research there was a problem with these style IP's, there was some plastic piece that would disintegrate inside the pump and those little pieces would clog a check ball in the return of the ip and cause the same problem. BUT, from what I can tell our trucks have a later updated piece inside the IP that does not come apart and cause this problem.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Sounds like for all the work and cost so far you could have just replaced all the supply and return lines, seals got a new lift pump and had it running.

There is a new lift pump (first try), the fuel lines are all good, I cut out the water separator lines (it had bee long ago bypassed), and have a new fuel filter to boot. It started up right away and ran well for about 5 minutes at idle. I hooked up a clear line to the schrader valve on the filter housing and it eventually ran clear (about 30 seconds). I drove it to the dump, since the junk was still inhabiting the bed, and got about 5 miles before the engine acted like it was out of fuel. I floored it and shifted tanks and it came back to life. This routine happened several more times before the engine quit altogether about 1/4 mile from the actual dump site. After some cranking, I got it to fire, but it quit after a few seconds. This is within smelling distance of the dump on a county road that is closed at 4 pm (when the dump closes). I spoke to the dump guy and he said it was out of the way and I could leave it there until Monday with no issues.

Now for my questions of the moment. Since I am pretty sure the fuel lines are clear and both tanks have fuel and the lift pump is new and working and the fuel filter is new, what is left? My only thoughts are, (1) does the fuel shutoff solenoid quit in stages or just stop working? (2) does the injector pump make problems like this? I am running out of stuff to replace and ideas about what is really wrong.

 

[DaveBen]

It probably just quits working. A solenoid is an "off and on switch".

 

[onetonjohn]

I've been dealing with fuel problem as well. Not an expert, but here's some of the things I've learned and might try.
Maybe it will run when you get back to it. Seems intermittent. When it doesn't run, I might try (with key on) vacuum pump break bleeder type thing and see if you have fuel from the tank to the fuel pump. If not, I would suspect control to FSV. Or maybe you have deteriorate shower heads or debris in the tank that's clogging the pickup. I pulled the bed to replace shower heads and fish out all the junk. For me little bit's plugged the intake and it wouldn't start.

If so, try cranking with remote start switch on solenoid while pushing shreader valve (or maybe bring a friend) and see if you have fuel and air, just air, or solid fuel. If solid fuel that's good. If that works, I'd crack all the lines and crank for 10 seconds. See if you have fuel to injectors. Repeat 3 times or so. You should start seeing fuel at injector lines. Tighten them back up and see if you have start.

Hopefully this is helpful Good luck.

 

[Clb]

Spitballing
Are the fuel caps vented on these?
Intermittent short to the ip fuel shut?