Fuel line clogged

[Knuckledragger]

I have had the engine quit on me few times lately, and keep replacing stuff, hoping it will be fixed. First, the old fuel filter. No go. Then the lift pump, which was quite old, so I thought perhaps a flap valve was having problems or had just quit. The truck had been sitting for a couple of months and after the change, it fired up right away. I moved it back and forth a few times, loading it with scrap and a spiral staircase to take to the dump, 10 miles away. Well, I got 6 miles and the engine quit on the rear tank, so I switched to the front and restarted. Got two more miles and it quit again. I thought that maybe the tanks had been siphoned out because the truck had sat so long (they were full when parked), got it towed back home and found the tanks still full. I know that the showerhead parts can get into the lines, has anyone cleared them? Or is it just a complete reline job? and can these lines still be bought at Ford?

Both of my showerheads are long gone, I even made one out of aluminum for a replacement. I thought I had cleared all the junk out of the tanks, but no.

 

[Kizer]

I disconnected the fuel line at the first rubber line between the lift pump and the tank ... very low PSI, like 5psi.
I also blew the return line, from the back of the engine, through the selector valve. Switch tanks during the process. Again very low psi.

 

[Clb]

+1 On that.
Open the filler necks FIRST

 

[IDIBRONCO]

a spiral staircase to take to the dump,

At first I though about being offended by this. I've decided that the better solution would be to say that I know where you can get another one made.
How's your FSV? They can become clogged internally.

 

[franklin2]

I have had the engine quit on me few times lately, and keep replacing stuff, hoping it will be fixed. First, the old fuel filter. No go. Then the lift pump, which was quite old, so I thought perhaps a flap valve was having problems or had just quit. The truck had been sitting for a couple of months and after the change, it fired up right away. I moved it back and forth a few times, loading it with scrap and a spiral staircase to take to the dump, 10 miles away. Well, I got 6 miles and the engine quit on the rear tank, so I switched to the front and restarted. Got two more miles and it quit again. I thought that maybe the tanks had been siphoned out because the truck had sat so long (they were full when parked), got it towed back home and found the tanks still full. I know that the showerhead parts can get into the lines, has anyone cleared them? Or is it just a complete reline job? and can these lines still be bought at Ford?

Both of my showerheads are long gone, I even made one out of aluminum for a replacement. I thought I had cleared all the junk out of the tanks, but no.

If you want a reliable truck, get a new tank if the old ones are rusty. They are not that expensive. The plastic lines are pretty reliable, but the short metal section at the sending unit is prone to getting pinholes.

 

[Thomas87]

Sounds about identical to when my fuel selector valve went bad. Would be fine for few miles then start starving of fuel. Switching tanks sometimes helped sometimes didn't and eventually left me on side of the road. Try bypassing the valve and run off just one tank and see if that helps.

 

[Clb]

Look up
Old bulls fsv tech 101
I can't find it on my phone...

 

[KansasIDI]

https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-6-Port-Bronze-Fuel-Valve/dp/B00YMZ3YZM

I have one of these. You should also get one. They are so very reliable compared to the electronic FSV

 

[franklin2]

https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-6-Port-Bronze-Fuel-Valve/dp/B00YMZ3YZM

I have one of these. You should also get one. They are so very reliable compared to the electronic FSV

Do you have a separate electrical switch for the sending units?

 

[KansasIDI]

Do you have a separate electrical switch for the sending units?

I just leave the factory FSV bolted to the frame and the wiring plugged into it, so the factory switch changes the gauge to read each tank.

 

[franklin2]

I just leave the factory FSV bolted to the frame and the wiring plugged into it, so the factory switch changes the gauge to read each tank.

That's a roll of the dice though. So your old FSV does work, at least half of it does. When mine failed, no thunk, so none of it worked. So the sending unit switching would not work either.

Just bringing this out for people down the road who are going to modify their fuel systems.

 

[Thomas87]

When mine went bad, I replaced it with one that took a different connector, will have to find the part numbers. I also put 2 inline diesel filter on the two feed lines going into the selector. Been 3 years and it still works great

 

[Knuckledragger]

Thanks for all the replies, they are all helpful!

I am considering a few stopgap solutions, because the bed is still full of crap for the dump. Once that stuff is gone, I can remove the bed and work from above. At 70+ years, I am not so eager to spend lots of time on my back in the gravel under the truck. It is a REALLY good thing I only use the truck for truck stuff, not a daily driver.

 

[franklin2]

Thanks for all the replies, they are all helpful!

I am considering a few stopgap solutions, because the bed is still full of crap for the dump. Once that stuff is gone, I can remove the bed and work from above. At 70+ years, I am not so eager to spend lots of time on my back in the gravel under the truck. It is a REALLY good thing I only use the truck for truck stuff, not a daily driver.

You may have to crawl under there for a preliminary inspection. I can't remember exactly, but am thinking the valve may be under the cab. So taking the bed off may do you no good for that part of the work to be done.