Fuel Filter light - what does is measure?

derjackistweg

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Try hooking the fuel pump directly to the battery terminal to eliminate it as an electrical issue
this is exactly what I did at first. [this took me 2 h as the pump is installed in a very good place ;-)].
It works fine and it lifts up fuel to the filter easy.
 

Thewespaul

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Then I would install a relay just for the fuel pump, this way the pump has its own supply and isnt relying on piggy backing on the gp relay.
 

mblaney

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I powered by electric pump using the IP fuel shut off solenoid power (to a small relay). I am not sure how you would use the GP relay to do this :confused:
 

derjackistweg

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I powered by electric pump using the IP fuel shut off solenoid power (to a small relay). I am not sure how you would use the GP relay to do this :confused:
It either worked for 24 years now - or never :confused:. It was not my idea. But after truck ran again, I measured 12 volt at this port. 12 v from starting to glow. The pump regulates itself, in a range of course.
 
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derjackistweg

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In addition, an air vent passage (12) in the
hydraulic head connects the outlet side of the
transfer pump with the pump housing. This
allows air and some fuel to be bled back to the
fuel tank via the return line. The fuel thus
bypassed fills the housing, lubricates the internal
components, cools and carries off any
small air bubbles. The pump operates with the
housing completely full of fuel; there are no
dead air spaces anywhere within the pump.

Page 7 from http://www.derjackistweg.de/wp-cont...e_DB2_Operation_and_Instruction_Manualpdf.pdf

So as far as I understand: If inhouse pressure is too high it will release this through this port. Plus also air, if inside.
 

laserjock

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Both of those circuits are off the same source on the brick nose and older. Not sure in OBS. It should be on a relay though. Don’t want the extra load of a pump on that circuit. It’s not designed for it. Relay is minimal load comparatively.

I’m not sure if this helps or not but there are a couple variants of the facet pumps. There is like a 9-11 psi version and a 5-7 psi version. It’s been shown the slightly higher pressure pump seems to keep up slightly better.
 

Macrobb

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Stop messing around and install a fuel pressure gauge right where the vacuum sensor is on the fuel filter. Just use a cheapy mechanical one, and zip-tie it to the hood cowl where you can see it while driving.
This will tell you what's really going on. You want a constant pressure from idle to WOT; no more than 2 psi variation. If you are going from 9 at idle to 0 at wot, you have a supply problem... and it's not air.
 

derjackistweg

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Both of those circuits are off the same source on the brick nose and older. Not sure in OBS. It should be on a relay though. Don’t want the extra load of a pump on that circuit. It’s not designed for it. Relay is minimal load comparatively.

I’m not sure if this helps or not but there are a couple variants of the facet pumps. There is like a 9-11 psi version and a 5-7 psi version. It’s been shown the slightly higher pressure pump seems to keep up slightly better.
Like mentioned above the facet was a 5-7 PSI pump. Pressure is not a problem, question is how much flow?

AMP consumption on the GP Relais shouldn´t be a problem That GP curcuit draws while working ~ 40 A. My pump draws 1A.

Stop messing around and install a fuel pressure gauge right where the vacuum sensor is on the fuel filter. Just use a cheapy mechanical one, and zip-tie it to the hood cowl where you can see it while driving.
This will tell you what's really going on. You want a constant pressure from idle to WOT; no more than 2 psi variation. If you are going from 9 at idle to 0 at wot, you have a supply problem... and it's not air.
the vaccum meter on the dash is - sadly - correct. Which I did thought at first. When the fuel filter is sucked to half empty and engine goes dead due to that, it´s too less fuel.


I will check how it works out to block the return line from the fuel filter.
 

derjackistweg

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btw - maybe it has something to do with this. I found by accident this line:
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It is very hard so see. It looks like it comes from the left intake manifold. I took the picture months ago and count not make out where this belongs to. It is fixed at the bottem end.
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Not 100% sure but this could the line before the engine was installed:
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So no fuel return line or something. It would have been too small I think. A vacuum line maybe?
 

DaveBen

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Diesel engines do not create a vacuum without a vacuum pump.
 

Macrobb

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btw - maybe it has something to do with this. I found by accident this line:
It is very hard so see. It looks like it comes from the left intake manifold. I took the picture months ago and count not make out where this belongs to. It is fixed at the bottem end.Not 100% sure but this could the line before the engine was installed:
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So no fuel return line or something. It would have been too small I think. A vacuum line maybe?
That line is the original IP return line. It runs back along the intake manifold to a tee where the injector return lines would have connected, and a barb for the return line to tank.
It looks like yours has been converted to a rubber return line on the IP, should be fine.

back to the fuel issue, stop looking after the lift pump. Your problem is before it, probably clogged lines.

You can grab a jerry can of fuel, run a hose from that to your lift pump input. Bleed that line out with the schraeder valve, and it'll probably run just fine.
 

laserjock

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I’m not sure I’m following but your thoughts on electrical but the Signal side (ignition switch) of the GP relay pulls very little. The power side (GP) side pulls a lot of power. If you are tapped to the high power side, the fuel pump will only run when the GP cycle. So again, I say you need your pump on a relay where you use the GP control signal wire as the signal to the fuel pump relay. It’s not a good idea to run it direct.

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