Fss no power

[OLDBULL8]

How about this.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=21070

 

[Guffey6]

That schematic is straight up gold! Thank you

 

[Guffey6]

Ok I had a few minutes to look again, it's definitely a fuseable link/ bad connection. I ohmed the wire out and was getting around 17ohms. I jumpered from the hot side of the battery to the fss and both pump and solenoid picked.

 

[Guffey6]

''Twas a loose ground on the circuit, the self tapping screw holding the starter solenoid to the fender was super loose. Had to upgrade to a larger self tapping screw and wha la! Works as intended.


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[madpogue]

Hmm, that ground should only be for the starter relay itself. It shouldn't have had any impact on the power coming from the always-hot terminal that acts as a junction point. Or was there also a ground wire with a ring terminal on that screw?

 

[laserjock]

Hmm, that ground should only be for the starter relay itself. It shouldn't have had any impact on the power coming from the always-hot terminal that acts as a junction point. Or was there also a ground wire with a ring terminal on that screw?

Diddo.

That ground don't have squat to do with it the IP doing its thing. I bet you've got a bad fusible link that is making contact intermittently. Fought one of those through a couple rounds of troubleshooting. Mine was held together by a thread so when I put the meter on it it read fine. As soon as I put any load on it voltage dropped to almost nothing. Took me an entire evening to figure that one out.

 

[Guffey6]

Just went back out and looked at it, you are right, the ground only goes to the neg side of the battery, the starter relay ground and to the voltage regulator ground. But this is where I also tied in the new pump ground and it was loose and not making a connection.

However, we do know the problem should be a fuseable link. Can I just go back with an inline fuse? Because troubleshooting these things seem iffy. Or is there a specific job this things have?

 

[Guffey6]

Hmm, that ground should only be for the starter relay itself. It shouldn't have had any impact on the power coming from the always-hot terminal that acts as a junction point. Or was there also a ground wire with a ring terminal on that screw?

There is a ring terminal on it, but like stated earlier, it's just going from battery, voltage regulator, and ending at the starter relay.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Just went back out and looked at it, you are right, the ground only goes to the neg side of the battery, the starter relay ground and to the voltage regulator ground. But this is where I also tied in the new pump ground and it was loose and not making a connection.

However, we do know the problem should be a fuseable link. Can I just go back with an inline fuse? Because troubleshooting these things seem iffy. Or is there a specific job this things have?

You want the fuseable link in this case because unlike a fuse,it's slower reacting and wont just pop and leave you stranded.With a fuseable link,the little ****** needs to get hot and will burn out saving your wiring from burning up.

 

[laserjock]

I replaced mine with fuses. That said, I understand the risk and carry a box of spare fuses at all times. I also carry a jumper wire for emergency situations.

 

[Guffey6]

Asking for a friend... if he happened to get his 12volts from the cold timing advance, would he have the same issue once the engine is warm? Loosing the 12 volts to his pump? Lol "friend" might or might not be me.

 

[79jasper]

Yes.

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[FORDF250HDXLT]

Asking for a friend... if he happened to get his 12volts from the cold timing advance, would he have the same issue once the engine is warm? Loosing the 12 volts to his pump? Lol "friend" might or might not be me.

Your "friend" would be walking.I hope he has a good set of shoes.

If you look at that schematic,you'll see the Red/LG (red wire with a light green stripe is what that means) going to the cold advance solenoid,comes from the FSS so that and the cold idle solenoid all share the same issue,they are run on the same wire which is passing through a bad fusible link (fuse like V)

However,if you want to just rob Peter to pay Paul,notice there is another fusible link of the same gauge right there (fuse link U),which protects the fuel heating element in the filter.
Well who needs that down in Alabama? Not you lol.Odds are high,that element burnt out years ago and no longer works anyway.
So look at the fusible link with the DB (dark blue) wire hooked to it.Trace it down a few inches and snip it! Now do the same with the Red wire with green stripe and trace that one out a few inches and snip it!
Remove the bad fusible link with the red/lg tail and toss it.Hook up the red/lg wire going to your FSS to the short tail/fusible link side of the blue wire (never mind the side going to the filter,it's dead now) and Bobs your uncle.If you do this,don't leave the filter heater hooked up too.You'll probably burn out that fusible link with too much draw too,if the element does still work.

Or just replace it for a few bucks
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-5557PT-Universal-Gauge-Fusible/dp/B00030CZV4

I'd use the one for the fuel heater and keep your $.