Front rotors on '96 F-250 4WD

wanderer

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I'm getting ready to change the rotors out on my truck this morning. I've done this before, and I pulled the hub and rotor off together last time. The guy at NAPA told me that I didn't have to do that, just pull the rotor. I can't remember now how it is put together, so I am skeptical.
 

Mike

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I'll be interested in seeing the answer to this one as I'm sure I will have a set of rotors needing R&R sometime in the near future. I've never been into my F-350's front spindles but all the other rotors I've done (Suburban,misc. foreign cars) I've had to pull the hub off the spindle.
 

hheynow

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Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor

1. Note: When raising the vehicle, make sure the hoist lift points do not rest on the caliper pins.

Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.

2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.

3. Remove both anchor bracket bolts. Examine both bolts for damage.

4. Remove the disc brake caliper and anchor bracket assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) and suspend it out of the way with wire.

5. Remove the hub grease cap (1131), cotter pin, and nut retainer.

6. CAUTION: With the spindle nut removed, the front disc brake hub and rotor can slide off the front wheel spindle (3105).

Note: On F-Super Duty, the front disc brake rotor (1125) can be separated from the wheel hub (1104). Refer to the illustration in this section.

Remove the spindle nut, front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195), the outer front wheel bearing (1216) and the front disc brake hub and rotor.

7. Check the condition of the front disc brake hub and rotor. Refer to «Section 06-00».

8. Remove the wheel hub grease seal and the inner bearing cone and roller (1201). Discard the seal.


Installation

1. If installing a new front disc brake hub and rotor, remove the protective coating or any dirt or grease deposits with degreaser. On F-Super Duty vehicles, the machine screw threads must be coated with a suitable adhesive before attaching the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub. Tighten screws to 100-120 N-m (74-89 lb-ft).

2. Thoroughly clean the bearing cone and rollers. Inspect for damage or wear. Refer to «Section 04-00» for front wheel bearing adjustment. Replace if necessary.

3. Pack the front wheel bearing and bearing cone and roller with a lithium-base grease such as Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

4. Install the inner bearing cone and roller. Refer to «Section 04-01A» for 4x2 or «Section 05-03C» for 4x4 procedures.

5. Install the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle.

6. Install the outer front wheel bearing, front wheel outer bearing retainer washer and spindle nut.

7. Adjust bearing end play. Refer to «Section 04-01A».

8. Install the disc brake caliper and anchor bracket assembly by installing two anchor bracket bolts. Tighten both bolts to 119-259 N-m (141-190 lb-ft).

9. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to the proper torque. Refer to «Specifications» at the end of this section.

10. Lower the vehicle. Check brakes for proper operation.

FROM THE FORD MANUAL
 

Mike

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So, is this saying only the F-superduty has a speratable hub/rotor assy and the rest are a unit?
 

hheynow

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95_stroker said:
So, is this saying only the F-superduty has a speratable hub/rotor assy and the rest are a unit?

That can't be true because I've upgraded to frozen slotted rotors a few years ago (then went back to OEM) and the rotors had to be pressed onto the hubs. If I remember correctly, when I had my rotors turned the hub & rotor were kept together on the lathe.
 

Mike

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hheynow said:
That can't be true

Agreed. At least I hope its not true.

hheynow said:
I've upgraded to frozen slotted rotors a few years ago (then went back to OEM) and the rotors had to be pressed onto the hubs.

Didnt like the frozen slotted? That musta been a spendy experiment huh?

hheynow said:
If I remember correctly, when I had my rotors turned the hub & rotor were kept together on the lathe.

I'm sure they leave them as a unit to turn them, they chuck up on the hub. ;Sweet
 

hheynow

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95_stroker said:
Didnt like the frozen slotted? That musta been a spendy experiment huh?

I could have had gauges and a chip for what I wasted. :mad:
 

BJS

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for the F350 which I think will apply for the f250 as well that the rotor & hub are a pseudo assembly.

Some places sell them as an assembly however they are easily seperated your lugnuts hold the rotors to the hub. To remove you will have to dissassemble hte hub completely.

You can use a brass hammer to remove the lugnuts and a few taps of the hammer will seperate the 2 pieces. Reinstalling you can use an impact & the lugnuts to pull the two back together. or a big hammer & punch to beat the studs back in.

Turning is accomplished as a unit the only time they need to be seperated is for replacement of the rotor or if you happened to damage your hub.
 

wanderer

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I got busy yesterday afternoon with a bike ride after replacing the rotors, so I didn't get back to the computer.

You have to remove the hub, and punch the studs out to replace the rotor. I used my neighbors press to install the new studs that I had bought with the rotors.
 
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