Fresh engine build follow up checks

[Nero]

So ive got about 1500 miles on my engine since I did the heads, studs, pump, injectors and intercooler. I'm still happy with how its running, but had a few questions about it.

Ive heard after a certain amount of miles the timing needs to be checked and adjusted, accurate? How many miles before adjustment?

Anything else that should be on the 'must check after x miles' list?

Ive noticed as of the last 200 miles that when I'm cruising at 72ish, egts are normal around 800f, but my coolant temp starts creeping up from 195 to about 220, even when just cruising. If I slow down to 65 they start dropping. Even when cruising at 60-60 egts are still 800f but coolant temps stay down. Possibly related to timing needing re adjusted?
What's also interesting is my coolant gauge on the cluster doesnt move much, and my aux gauge sensor is in the rear of the drivers head. Are coolant temps that much different? I don't think so...

Now, a non engine question!
For y'all that have a 3 piece driveline with a carrier, any tips/tricks to take up some of the slack from the aging rubber on the carrier bearing? U joints and bearing are all in good shape, but I have some driveline vibration at anything over 50mph, only thing I can see is I can move the carrier bearing up and down 3/8 "

Not really a question but more of a statement, I think I have a return side fuel leak, last two cold starts were hard starts like either bad glow plug or air intrusion... Need to diagnose... Will probably push out a few days.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

So ive got about 1500 miles on my engine since I did the heads, studs, pump, injectors and intercooler. I'm still happy with how its running, but had a few questions about it.

Ive heard after a certain amount of miles the timing needs to be checked and adjusted, accurate? How many miles before adjustment?

I can't recall needing to re-time a new IP, but I could be wrong. Generally a good idea to check it once or twice a year though.

Anything else that should be on the 'must check after x miles' list?

The stock head bolts were to be re-torqued at ~60,000 IIRC. I wonder if there is any such necessity on studs? I don't think so...

Ive noticed as of the last 200 miles that when I'm cruising at 72ish, egts are normal around 800f, but my coolant temp starts creeping up from 195 to about 220, even when just cruising. If I slow down to 65 they start dropping. Even when cruising at 60-60 egts are still 800f but coolant temps stay down. Possibly related to timing needing re adjusted?
What's also interesting is my coolant gauge on the cluster doesnt move much, and my aux gauge sensor is in the rear of the drivers head. Are coolant temps that much different? I don't think so...

While I don't disagree with the idea that timing might be affecting your cruising efficiency, you should not have creeping temps at just 800* egts. Does your fan clutch not engage?
I'm sure you have a good motorcraft t-stat in there but that could potentially be another factor. Full open is 0.26" in boiling water as it turns out.
Stock gauge is garbage and basically an idiot light. I have two coolant gauges just cause I had an extra so one is front of driver's head, the other is rear of passenger head. The read within 5* all the time and even that disparity is mostly the difference of accuracy between the two, not actual temp difference.

Now, a non engine question!
For y'all that have a 3 piece driveline with a carrier, any tips/tricks to take up some of the slack from the aging rubber on the carrier bearing? U joints and bearing are all in good shape, but I have some driveline vibration at anything over 50mph, only thing I can see is I can move the carrier bearing up and down 3/8 "

I've had that kind of wiggle many times over the years...but any shaft vibration I've had wasn't from that. Loose pinion nut, bent rearmost yoke from a thrown u-joint at speed x2, bad/bent center slip yoke. All caused issues at some point that cleared up when fixed, regardless of play at the rubber bushing. HOWEVER, I've been eyeing these bad boys... Drive Shaft Balancers and maybe they'd help you, too. I'm a believer in the technology every since I switched to balance rings on all 4 corners. They work very well!

Not really a question but more of a statement, I think I have a return side fuel leak, last two cold starts were hard starts like either bad glow plug or air intrusion... Need to diagnose... Will probably push out a few days.

Git-r-done! One way to clean that up is to delete the bleeder port on the fuel header. You do loose the ability to bleed air under load but doesn't let the fuel drain back anymore, either. That was Ford's idea after many air intrusion problems.
My solution was to keep the bleeder, but install a check valve after it. Doesn't do anything a check valve is known for, but it takes 2psi to open-- just enough to keep fuel from draining back but still opens with my e-pump or the lift pump to purge air.

 

[Nero]

Thanks for all the good info @The_Josh_Bear,
as for the timing, I maayyyyy not have gone back and reset the timing after taking out the R&D injectors and put the Russ Built ones in there... The creeping temps didn't start until after I did the dually swap, so I already had one good camping trip in. No creeping temps on that trip, but I also have put on 600 miles since that trip...

I heard about the stock head bolts needing re-torqued. According to Justin and a few other posts I've read, not needed for head studs.

I did think it may be the stat, I replaced it with a Napa branded one 30k something miles ago, when I initially started working on the engine, back when it was in the '88 chassis, back in 2013. I have Aaron's electro viscous fan clutch and his drop-in fan upgrade in there, along with a 3 core Champion all aluminum radiator. I never went back and adjusted the module, so anything over 185F the fan is locked on at all times. It is very obvious when it is on, because it will be super quiet, then jet engine taking off loud.

I am curious how the driveline balancers work... In the meantime maybe I'll loosen the carrier and stuff a few washers in there, and tighten it back down. Squish that rubber a little...

I had already deleted the fuel filter heater and bleeder, thinking I had an air intrusion issue when I had the R&D injectors in there, so I wonder if a cap O ring pooped the bed or a line or something... I also have a return line check valve I need to put in... haven't yet.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

@Nero For the loose carrier bushing, I used a piece of 5/16 - 3/8" fuel line between the rubber bushing and horseshoe bracket. I'm not sure exactly what the type of fuel line is called but it is the larger version of weedeater/ chain saw fuel line.

I have about 10k on my 83 since putting the fuel line in my carrier with no noticeable vibration, it was pretty bad prior to adding it.

James

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I had already deleted the fuel filter heater and bleeder, thinking I had an air intrusion issue when I had the R&D injectors in there, so I wonder if a cap O ring pooped the bed or a line or something...

While I may be wrong, I don't think that a bad o ring or return line will cause a starting issue. I have both and have no starting issues at all this time of year. I do have a return line kit on the way so I'll be fixing that soon.

 

[Nero]

While I may be wrong, I don't think that a bad o ring or return line will cause a starting issue. I have both and have no starting issues at all this time of year. I do have a return line kit on the way so I'll be fixing that soon.

Yeah the way it was acting made me think one or more dead glow plugs. When it was trying to start it would smoke heavy black like only a few cylinders were firing. After cranking long enough, maybe 25 seconds total she roared to life and immediately smoothed out. Not the typical signs of air intrusion.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Yeah the way it was acting made me think one or more dead glow plugs. When it was trying to start it would smoke heavy black like only a few cylinders were firing. After cranking long enough, maybe 25 seconds total she roared to life and immediately smoothed out. Not the typical signs of air intrusion.

Normally glow plugs would show up as white/ unburnt fuel smoke.

Black is burnt/rich. To me that is either IP way too much fuel/not enough air.

But then again our john deere skid loader would roll black smoke when the fuel filter was plugged up. But that was only under a load.

James

 

[Nero]

I also was starting it at half throttle. Was tired, could have been more.

 

[XOLATEM]

Is it possible that the extra heat shed from the intercooler at the higher engine speeds influenced the coolant temps...? The turbo would be spinning faster and more boost, I would imagine...so...more heat that the radiator has to deal with....?

Also...is it possible that the air circulation from the front of the grill, through the intercooler, AC condensor, intercooler, and then to the fan...would it be possible that, at a certain speed...the airflow 'bunches up' in front of the fan and cannot be pulled away fast enough...?

Just wondering out loud....

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Gah, I KNEW you had the upgraded fan but I didn't trust my goldfish memory...so close.

If that fan was locked up and you're still running 220 just cruising 800* egts I'd tear out the T-stat first thing. There's just about nothing else it could be, except a physical blockage in the coolant path.

@XOLATEM yes the charge cooler adds heat to the system as you suspect but not THAT much. We have similar setups and I can pull the load in my avatar all day cruising 800* egts WITHOUT A FAN and not overheat. So there's got to be more to the equation on his rig. As for the second wondering, no the air doesn't bunch up like you might think: these fans are said to draw ~30hp at 3000rpm(probably less at 70mph, of course) but that'll move any air in the area, baby!

Funny you posted sub-10mpgs for your trip with that big-ass camper.
My camper(just sold it!) sticker weight was around 2800lbs. Trailer is ~4,500lbs.
I used to do a job in the same place that was about a 2 hour drive away, very hilly but no long climbs, mostly rolling hills and light grades. Pulling just my trailer I could get ~10 mpgs. Trailer plus my Kit Camper(lighter than in my avatar) I'd get 10.5mpgs. Camper alone, I got 9.5mpgs! What the heck! I did the same route for years that way, always got better mileage with the camper AND trailer than the camper or trailer alone. I figured out eventually it must have to do with the aerodynamics of the full load, like Nascar drafting/pushing teamates are faster than a single car on the same track.

Regardless of creeping temps or not, I would still re-time that beast to see where you're at. Keeping in mind that most turbo IDI's seem to like 6* BTDC a little better than 8*. My setup doesn't seem to care very much, but for other it seems to make quite the difference.

 

[Nero]

All right you've convinced me to re time my engine and also check my stat. I'll actually boil it and see how wide it opens up. I actually have a hot plate with thermometer for testing stats at work. Just might be a minute before I get around to doing the work, in the middle of a small fence project. Also, need a break from working in 90+f heat of my driveway.

I also thought it was a little strange I wasn't seeing at least 10mpg, unloaded I can hit 13 driving it hard. What gears do you have? I have 4:10
Also, just to add, sticker weight wet for my camper is 3200

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I had 4.10 for almost 15 years, changed to 3.55 4-ish years ago. But those mpg's were with the 4.10's and stock tires. I only get about 13mpgs empty now even with 3.55's and 33" big soft tires. But there's a lot more power, I get up to the speed limit easily, and drive 75mph on the 70mph freeway. I also have one low compression cylinder.

I really wish there was a cheap way to significantly boost cetane in these things. The whole engine was designed around pump diesel with the national standard for cetane like 10 points higher than it is now. I've heard from many old timers on here and FTE that got 20mpgs all day long before the switch to LSD. That killed MPGs then ULSD made it even worse. Meanwhile you can DPF delete a Duramax and get 22+ with gobs of HP on tap. The guy who bought my camper had done just that.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Some of the fuel additives say that they boost cetane. I haven't bothered to check which ones do, how much they do, or if they even work.