Ford 12v

Crawler

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You’ll need a tab to hold the KDP, a front cover gasket, and a crankshaft to front cover seal. Other than that, it’s just wrenching.

I’d adjust the timing while I was in there.

As far as the head gasket goes, no need to mess with it unless you have a problem currently or you are wanting to stud it or o-ring it. But there’s no need unless you’re going after big power numbers.
 

u2slow

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Cummins power replaced the Ford "Brazillian" diesels in the early 90's. Probably after some good boardroom fights between Ford, Navistar, and Dodge LOL

Higher strength head-bolt kits are also available... so are high strength Fastenal bolts. What you want to pay for is up to you.
 

morgankshaw

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This is so cool. I’m doing the same exact thing gonna put one of these f650 Cummins into my f350 currently running the old idi. I’m even more excited it will still say ford on the motor! Hahaa. That’s gonna blow someone’s mind when it’s done.

How’s the fuller going to work in a regular truck or are you going to run an adapter to your zf5 or e4od?? Or are you keeping the whole medium duty truck?


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u2slow

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I think the Fuller route has a lot of merit. You get a massive HD clutch without spending a mint on a Southbend, etc. A divorced NP205 isn't too hard to find. There's a few others too (NP200/201/202, Spicer 23/24). There will be driveshaft mods required, but I believe most Fummins swaps shift the trans/tcase rearward, requiring reworked shafts anyway.

Many of these MDT trans don't have OD, so factor that into your axle ratio and tire size choices. OD versions do exist, but less common, and/or in higher demand.
 

BC4Lyphe

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Ive got the 6 speed non-OD fuller behind the 5.9. I got a divorced 203 to make the 203/205 doubler. I plan on running the tallest differential gear I can find with some ~37-40 tires to try and get the rpms as low as possible. granny gear in 4 low should have plenty of grunt. I do plan on finding the OD gearset at some point. I was in a hurry to get it running so I left it 2wd so what I did was got a 1710 yoke off ebay and machined a 4" solid bar to be welded to the original driveshaft. I havent run it yet because I'm looking around for the proper hydraulic clutch. The bus had a mechanical clutch linkage which I dont want to use in the truck.
 

subway

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not quite the same but i am running a eaton fuller 6 speed overdrive in my F350 that i swapped a DT360 into. it fits with no body lift and i now run a divorced NP205 transfercase were the rear carrier bearing used to be. i did link the factory master cylinder to a pull type slave cylinder with a custom bracket to make the clutch work. it took some tweaking but the clutch feels a little stronger than factory but not bad.

if you are not running tall tires or a real high gear ratio you want an overdrive. with my 265 series tires and 3.55 gears i maxed out at 70 mph. now with 285 series tires and an overdrive i can cruise comfortably at 65-75 no problem.
 

BC4Lyphe

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Brining this back as I'm finally planning to work on the truck again this spring. Trying to get my ducks in a row before flying out to work on it.

I'm currently trying to get a part list together to convert the fs5306a direct 6th to and OVERDRIVE 6th. Anyone know what's needed?
I'd also like to get the dana super 60 and 80 re-geared to 3.54 i think Its got 4.10s in it now. Planning on 32 to 34" tires.
Also need to track down a ford 205 tc
Need to decide on a 203 205 doubler kit. Leaning towards NWF with the triple stick.
I'd like to keep the dually bed on there for the 6000 mile trip because it has a high top capper on it but Ive got 2012 cab chassis axles. Super 60 and Dana 80 dually. The front is on the truck but the rear I'm concerned may not clear the inner fender wells. May have to flatbed it to work. Also may end up with a 4 link and airbags.
 

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