first post and a question

[Darrin Tosh]

I can't remember what brand he said. It is not part of the head gasket, but it is a seperate piece that you add to the coolant pasage. If you want to give him a call I think you can get his nimber off the web site, or PM me and I can will get it to you.

 

[Exekiel69]

I just posted a reply but it does no appear so here i go again.

I watch the coolant inside the rad for 30 minutes or more and i did not notice any movement or flow. the only thing it does is go up and overflow then go down, at this moment i check and still can't tell wich way is it going (left-right) i can tell it goes up and down. I also did a test i found on haynes, squeeze the upper rad hose and release it then you should feel some pressure inside again. I must say the hose is full of coolant and i cant squeeze it all the way just feel the touch of two fingers so i dont feel any pressure coming back.

Exekiel.

 

[LandscapeMan]

Yes you could call KennyD, your phone does dial out doesn't it?

I'll bet he would loan it to you

Hey Kenny
Good to hear from you! We had a great IDI rally. Except for some nut case that rode his bike to the antique truck museam.

Sorry guys that was a serious brain fart on my part.

Now about that heat gun.
Very nice of you to offer. I will probably be working out at Marriottsville all week. If your are home in the evening perhaps I could swing by. Better yet break out your Gold Wing and we could take a ride.

Oh yea, looks like I may be losing some coolant in the area of the heater core. So I see another adventure looming in the near future. I will give you a call.
Thanks,
Charlie

 

[LandscapeMan]

I just posted a reply but it does no appear so here i go again.

I watch the coolant inside the rad for 30 minutes or more and i did not notice any movement or flow. the only thing it does is go up and overflow then go down, at this moment i check and still can't tell wich way is it going (left-right) i can tell it goes up and down. I also did a test i found on haynes, squeeze the upper rad hose and release it then you should feel some pressure inside again. I must say the hose is full of coolant and i cant squeeze it all the way just feel the touch of two fingers so i dont feel any pressure coming back.

Exekiel.

Hmnn,
I am certainly no expert. But I would think you should be seeing sideways flow. I am anxious to compare. EZ, do you have a thermometer we can use?
One can never have to much information.

 

[Exekiel69]

No, where can i get one? Napa? i will check tomorrow. I'll also call Ken and ask about the head gasket part that should not go and if i can actually make a point with it call back to Jasper

I can't wait to this sunday to go compare the two trucks.

Exekiel.

 

[argve]

For what it's worth - remember Exekiel I experienced the same cooling issue that your having....

I never seen the rad fluid moving much in any of the engines that The E had in her. Not even the stock engine when I purchased her. During my cooling issues I had the heads ripped off and fresh rebuilt ones installed and I doubt if there was anything added that was strange to the heads, block or gaskets at the time because the only thing that struck them funny was the shims on the rocker are assemblies...

 

[Exekiel69]

ok, wath do you think? should i go ahead and replace the fan clutch? i kinda want to do it cause i know the one that is in there is prov the original one and you've seen wath they did when they removed it at the time the install the reman engine

I'm runing out of ideas. I can see the fun moving all the time while idling coul it be possible that it stops when i drive it on the highway? and still it gets to 200 sitting alone. Is anything else in there?

Exekiel.

 

[Agnem]

EZ, if you were going to go to the effort to replace the fan clutch, I would sure throw a water pump on it while your in there, for peace of mind. Use a Motorcraft one. To many poor quality rebuilds out there, as Charlie will attest.

 

[LandscapeMan]

ok, wath do you think? should i go ahead and replace the fan clutch? i kinda want to do it cause i know the one that is in there is prov the original one and you've seen wath they did when they removed it at the time the install the reman engine

I'm runing out of ideas. I can see the fun moving all the time while idling coul it be possible that it stops when i drive it on the highway? and still it gets to 200 sitting alone. Is anything else in there?

Exekiel.

Ok,
Some one clear this up for me. The fan when Idling or at Normal Operating temps will turn inline with the engine RPM. Upon reaching a certain high tempature. The fan clutch will engage and increase the speed of the fan relative to the RPM. When temps come back down the fan clutch will disengage.

i.e. EZ, if you are seeing the fan spinning at idle. That doesn't nessarally mean
that the fan clutch is "engaged". I only hear the "Roar" of the fan clutch on long hard pulls while towing. It actually rarely engages.

Please correct me if I have this wrong.

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[LandscapeMan]

EZ, if you were going to go to the effort to replace the fan clutch, I would sure throw a water pump on it while your in there, for peace of mind. Use a Motorcraft one. To many poor quality rebuilds out there, as Charlie will attest.

Yes I agree with the Master.
Charlie

 

[Exekiel69]

Ok everyone here is the last update n the jasper case, i called them today after i talked with Ken at DPS as Darrin said before he mentioned that some head gaskets come with this plates to slow the flow of coolant, he also said is not th first one he have seen that they allways do it and not all customers buy aftermarket gauges to find out.

... So, i called Jasper and after some talk and some time on hold they said it will be good if i can make a block test on the engine, also called hydrocarbon test with strips and another one with a capsule where you mix the coolant and it tells you the hydrocarbon on the coolant. Anybody did this before, or know where to get it? they mentioned Autozone has them, i will have to find an autozone on my area.

I tried to leave clear that i wanted that on the records in case the engine goes melted some time from now and told them the best thing to do will be giving me another engine, i don't know about that yet.

Exekiel.

 

[rancherman84]

just somthing i've had happen to me on my old farmall M,bought a new radiator from CT farm&family center.replaced because it was leaking
after the install it would overheat when worked,removed the radiator and found a small piece of tin had been left loose in the radiator and had fallen down and was blocking the lower hose off ,just throwing somthing else out there

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Ok,
Some one clear this up for me. The fan when Idling or at Normal Operating temps will turn inline with the engine RPM. Upon reaching a certain high tempature. The fan clutch will engage and increase the speed of the fan relative to the RPM. When temps come back down the fan clutch will disengage.

i.e. EZ, if you are seeing the fan spinning at idle. That doesn't nessarally mean
that the fan clutch is "engaged". I only hear the "Roar" of the fan clutch on long hard pulls while towing. It actually rarely engages.

Please correct me if I have this wrong.

Thanks,
Charlie

That is correct Charlie, the fan will allways "spin", just not the same RPM as the motor, unless the clutch is fully engaged.

I'm runing out of ideas. I can see the fun moving all the time while idling coul it be possible that it stops when i drive it on the highway? and still it gets to 200 sitting alone. Is anything else in there?

Not really EZ, It just may not be locking up when it gets hot. I would say with your High Performance Diesel, put a MS-TEC Clutch on it. I heard my fan clutch for the first time last week with the new clutch on it, but I haven't had a chance to pull the 5th wheel yet. That will be the REAL test!

 

[Exekiel69]

Travis already given me the page, but do you have the part #? Will try that.


Thank you, Exekiel.

 

[Agnem]

EZ, I just had a thought that I'll throw out to you. If you get in a situation where Jasper is going to replace your engine, keep in mind that the turbo could be an excuse to void your warranty. If that should appear possible, it may become necessary to return the engine to stock prior to their getting their mitts on it. I'm still interested to find out how your comparison with Charlie's truck goes. Hopefully you can borrow KennyD's infrared temperature gun and compare directly. Sounds like Jasper thinks maybe you have a head gasket leak, but I don't know about those hydrocarbon pills or whatever. A radiator presure tester may yeild more information.