Mt_Man
Full Access Member
@Daddy Tanuki Very cool! Welcome to the board, there is a lot of great info and people here. Have you checked out usfiltermaxx's making black diesel writeup? https://usfiltermaxx.com/en/content/9-make-black-diesel I found it helpful years ago. You centrifuging your wmo before you burn in a boiler/furnace will help greatly for ash build up. There are several out here in the USA that have modified the old oil burning stoves(like a wood stove just runs on diesel) to run on wmo also with good results. Let me know if you want some links for anything.
I have been thinking of getting his 10000g unit to try out. Please do a write up when you get a chance and keep us in the loop of your progress. It would be nice to just be running one machine vs. the three I have going now. I will post up a pictures of my current setup configuration to update this thread.
Here is some tips. 2 tank system for pretty much everything burning wmo is the best way to go. For example, truck and generator, start/shutdown on diesel and once warm switch to wmo. I read an USA Army study about burning wmo in generators to dispose of used engine oil in combat. They found that diesel generators need 55% load or greater to keep burning clean. Less load resulted in cylinder glazing, blow-by, and increased oil consumption. This also applies to trucks idling for long periods. If you idle for long periods, bring the idle up to 1000rpm, this increases the EGT's and decreases carbon buildup. Long trips are better then short, stop and go traffic is less ideal. I would do preheat system for the boiler system too. Unless you want to blend everything.
Blending is essentially trying to get the viscosity down to diesel and also the autoignition temperature. I look at the SDS sheets for the products and look at the burning quality. Easy way to do it in the field is to take a paper towel and put some oil on it and light oil part with a lighter. Look for how easy it lights, color of smoke, and how much smoke. If it lights easy then probably burn easy in an engine. The opposite is true; difficult to light, goes out, lots of smoke are all not good signs. Piston engines tend to be more flexible with synthetic oils then some oil furnaces or boiler. Preheating is key in both applications. Diesel engines can only heat the air so much with compression. So if the oil is thick and cold it may not be enough to burn. Preheating the fuel helps decrease the energy required to autoignition. This is very true in the furnace and boiler combustion camber. The ignitor is the only thing providing heat to light. True it is lighting and not compression ignition in nature. The oil has to be warm enough to burn, diesel burn easy compared to straight wmo. There was a guy who did a great write-up on how to convert a home oil furnace to burning straight wmo. He put it on youtube too.
Sources are key. I would check out the marina or airport and see if they have any used fuels or oils. Around here its an easy way to get old gas or fuels. Be clean when collecting and cultivate a good relationship with the shops or individuals.
Hope this helps!
I have been thinking of getting his 10000g unit to try out. Please do a write up when you get a chance and keep us in the loop of your progress. It would be nice to just be running one machine vs. the three I have going now. I will post up a pictures of my current setup configuration to update this thread.
Here is some tips. 2 tank system for pretty much everything burning wmo is the best way to go. For example, truck and generator, start/shutdown on diesel and once warm switch to wmo. I read an USA Army study about burning wmo in generators to dispose of used engine oil in combat. They found that diesel generators need 55% load or greater to keep burning clean. Less load resulted in cylinder glazing, blow-by, and increased oil consumption. This also applies to trucks idling for long periods. If you idle for long periods, bring the idle up to 1000rpm, this increases the EGT's and decreases carbon buildup. Long trips are better then short, stop and go traffic is less ideal. I would do preheat system for the boiler system too. Unless you want to blend everything.
Blending is essentially trying to get the viscosity down to diesel and also the autoignition temperature. I look at the SDS sheets for the products and look at the burning quality. Easy way to do it in the field is to take a paper towel and put some oil on it and light oil part with a lighter. Look for how easy it lights, color of smoke, and how much smoke. If it lights easy then probably burn easy in an engine. The opposite is true; difficult to light, goes out, lots of smoke are all not good signs. Piston engines tend to be more flexible with synthetic oils then some oil furnaces or boiler. Preheating is key in both applications. Diesel engines can only heat the air so much with compression. So if the oil is thick and cold it may not be enough to burn. Preheating the fuel helps decrease the energy required to autoignition. This is very true in the furnace and boiler combustion camber. The ignitor is the only thing providing heat to light. True it is lighting and not compression ignition in nature. The oil has to be warm enough to burn, diesel burn easy compared to straight wmo. There was a guy who did a great write-up on how to convert a home oil furnace to burning straight wmo. He put it on youtube too.
Sources are key. I would check out the marina or airport and see if they have any used fuels or oils. Around here its an easy way to get old gas or fuels. Be clean when collecting and cultivate a good relationship with the shops or individuals.
Hope this helps!
