Filtering system for used oil to fuel???

ricerocket86

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I have over 600 gallons of good used oil and transfluid I want to turn into fuel. But it does need to be filtered. Has alittle water in it from moister and alittle trash from being used oil. I have a pump and many 55 gallon drums. Can anybody explain to me how to make a filtering system so I can put all this used oil to use?
 

h2odrx

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Some use sock filters and others set up stock fuel filter/water separator's. What ever pump or gravity system, My idea is the cheaper the better, but make sure it is clean. check out the bio fuel section too.
 

Cntrlflm

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Filtering WMO

Any diagrams or pics of one made?

We have a "Galt" upflow system in use right now. Just relocated it and started the prime with some really dirty oil. Since we use WVO as well, we have a centrifuge in operation too. We're finding the Galt system works better because the Centrifuge plugged off on a regular basis.

With WMO, it seems time and heat are your friend.

Our system streats with the primary feed barrel and a 100 micron filter. Thent into a couple of 50 micron filters. From the 50 filters it goes to the Upflow barrel with a 20 micron filter. After dripping from the upflow barrel, into the final barrel with a 5 micron filter bag and pumped out through a Goldenrod filter ready to use.

Cntrlflm...

For a basic picture and flow ---

http://www.frybrid.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2119&stc=1&d=1193006636
 

shorthair

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I use a Baldwin BF1212 water separator that is good down to 2 microns With a Tuthill waste oil pump.
 

broncobilly_69

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This is kind of a diagram of what mine looks like. my pump is a Tuthill lube oil transfer pump (LP50) from northern. It's 10 gpm so I run 2 goldenrod filters in parallell since they are rated at 5gpm. for the Ts and fitting I used 3/4 household plumbing stuff Glavenized steel. this set up works quickly and should still pump the wmo when it's cold out (I just started though so I don't have any actual experience on that. You're probably looking at $500 for this setup. If you want a 12 volt pump (mine is 110) norther sells one similar to mine but it pumps at half the gpm and is not rated for as high of viscosity oils (could be a problem in winter


.............Goldenrod
..............water block - Hose
Pump T..................................T- 3 micron hydraulic filter - hose
...............Goldenrod
................water block - Hose
(pretend the peroids arent there)
 

averagef250

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I built a centrifuge like the simple centrifuge deal, works well enough for me. Just try to keep sytnhetic gear oil out of the mix. I've found it doesn't burn at all.
 

rebel_horseman

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One neat idea that I heard about was to buy a couple industrial super strength magnets and installing them in the inside of the drum to attract the bulk of the metal shavings out of the oil. This could be considered the pre-pre-filter.
 

subway

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i have skipped the pump deal and use shop air to push through my filters. i converted a old well expansion tank where i added a regulator and a 5 mic golden rod filter then a 1 mic house water filter out the bottom of the tank.

with my shop air there is no pump to burn out if the filters plug up.

there are tons of differant ways to filter what is important is that it gets filtered in the end.
 

averagef250

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i have skipped the pump deal and use shop air to push through my filters. i converted a old well expansion tank where i added a regulator and a 5 mic golden rod filter then a 1 mic house water filter out the bottom of the tank.

with my shop air there is no pump to burn out if the filters plug up.

there are tons of differant ways to filter what is important is that it gets filtered in the end.

That's what I did before the centrifuge. I just used an old 80 gallon compressor tank. I found a great pump for moving waste oil that's cheap, quiet and very reliable are boiler water circ pumps from radiant heating systems. The one I have was free, it's only 1/5HP, but it flows a decent amount and it's real quiet.
 

subway

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That's what I did before the centrifuge. I just used an old 80 gallon compressor tank. I found a great pump for moving waste oil that's cheap, quiet and very reliable are boiler water circ pumps from radiant heating systems. The one I have was free, it's only 1/5HP, but it flows a decent amount and it's real quiet.

thats a good idea, i have one lying around. i still need a pump to get from my sources.
 

rebel_horseman

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There is no definitive answer to your question. There are numerous factors to consider; for example, the viscosity of the oil, how well it's filtered, the type of motor, the type of injection system, the condition of the motor and injection system, temperature, and probably others that I'm not thinking of right now.

If it's cold outside you're going to have performance issues with WVO/WMO in your tank because at lower temps they become thick and won't flow, thereby clogging your lines and pump. It's because of this that most true conversions include some sort of heating mechanism in the tank to warm the fuel to prevent gelling.

I would start with 5% oil by volume and increase it from there.
 

argve

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I have found that I could run 10% with "slight" problems in the winter time temps. Meaning that she would spit and cough on start up and would be sluggish for about 5 mins then would smooth out. I ran a mix of used motor oil and used cooking oil. Both were still liquid at zero degrees but thickened up. Like said start at 5 because your oil may not be a fluid as mine was because a lot of mine was syn oils.
 
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