Factory turbo boost leak

[94turboidi]

I rebuilt my turbo from my factory 94 idi turbo engine and put all of it on my 1990 engine. It picked up some power but it has a exhaust leak. I can't pinpoint it. I think it might be around the y connector on the passenger side. I took it all apart awhile back and put some exhaust putty on it to try and seal the slip joint fitting but it was the same.

I have the transmission out of the truck right now doing a clutch, welding the flywheel, rear seal, master/slave cylinder and misc. things and want to fix this leak. My gear shifter boot is bad and it will leak exhaust fumes into the cab sometimes! Anyone have any leak similar to this? It never leaked on the other engine. Also where can I get the rubber hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake? I used regular hose and it kinked and seems to be making oil leaks. I would like to get the pre formed one that the factory had.

The reason I believe it to be on the boost side is I rarely hear the turbo whistle and its only for a few seconds, I don't have gauges but I don't think its making much boost.

 

[94turboidi]

Here are a couple pictures. This is where I originally thought it was leaking but thought I had fixed it. I took the turbo out a few months ago and put some kind of exhaust paste for slip connections in there and it didn't help anything but its obvious that this is where it was leaking. What is the correct fix for this slip fitting? This seems like a really bad design. I have the engine out now so I am tempted to put it all back together when I put it back in. I think I will have to raise the cab some if the turbo is on because I couldn't get it out without removing the y collector.

 

[94turboidi]

Also I just stuck the 2 pieces together for the picture this isn't really the correct direction for them. They fit fairly loose.

 

[icanfixall]

That slip fit is the usual place these systems leak from. They will seal up but nobody knows how long that will take. Now for other exhaust leaks... Anywhere you see black powdery soot is where you have an exhaust leak. How your going to seal that slip fit is another can-o-worms.... Someone else thats done this repair hopefully will chime in with what worked for them... I do know when that slip fit seals up sometimes its impossible to remove again... Some guys just lift the cab and remove the turbo as a complete unit....

 

[OnDaRoad]

Muffler shop

Muffler shop

Check the tightness of your slip fitting by sliding it
into the turbo outlet

If it has a snug fit, the problem is in a loose exhaust
system pulling it out

Find a muffler shop to reapair/fabricate a support
to keep it engaged


Jim

 

[reklund]

I used some stovepipe cement to seal mine up when I had the used 088 kit on my truck. Worked great- but as was said, a loose exhaust will pull it apart. There is supposed to be a tab on the downpipe that bolts to a bracket on the manifold to hold it all together. If you don't have one, fab it up and slather some stovepipe cement on it. It'll seal up nicely.

Ryan

 

[FordGuy100]

What I found with that Y connector is that if you tighten the uppipe to the turbo, and then try to put that cast piece that forms the Y, in place, it will leak no matter how tight you get the nuts. To eleviate the problem I described, just loosen the four bolts on the turbo for the uppipe, slip everything together, and tighten from the bottm up.

 

[94turboidi]

What about jb weld? I didn't figure the exhaust played too much of a role since the y collector is bolted to the exhaust manifold and the turbo is bolted to the oil drain but I am sure there is some room for play there. It was sealed together on the other motor and I was the dummy who hammered the two pieces apart so I could assemble it. I wish I would have left it alone. I am thinking if jbweld wouldn't work then I might mark them where they need to be fitted together and have them welded up with a nickle rod? I don't have a welder or I would do it but when I took some welding classes a few years ago the teacher said he used to do portable welding and used nickle to weld cracked front axles on tractors that were cast iron. I know this sounds extreme but I have been dealing with this leak for the last 10,000 miles hoping it would seal up with soot or rust but it hasn't. I have everything out of the truck right now and want to put everything back together nicely.

 

[BlueBreadTruck]

That slip fitting was completely seized togther on my setup, and you can get the pipe in as one peice if you put that in before the turbo. I think you should mock it up, mark it, then have it welded togther. jb weld wont work with heat

 

[94turboidi]

I think that is what I will do since the engine is out. I had new carpet a few years ago and my gear shifter boot is bad and I never had the time to fix it right until now so the carpet is shot around that boot. It just let soot in around there, I had towels blocking it the best I could for awhile and finally screwed the boot down and that stopped most of it. I am fixing so many little headaches on the truck right now that its going to be like a new truck. It will be worth the wait. I am tearing most of the motor down and doing all the gaskets and cleaning parts up and painting them.

Now I wonder while I am having it welded if it would be too crazy to have the downpipe hole opened up to 3-3.5" Like enlarge that hole and have a few inches of pipe welded on. I don't know what kind of flange it would need. I suppose the v band clamp is the best one. Speaking of that I bought a brand new clamp on ebay and it already fell apart. The original ford one seemed like it was made better. I thought I heard about someone doing something like this on their downpipe instead of buying the ats kit but can't remember. I still have the crushed downpipe and if nothing else I will just get a regular downpipe because that will be a big upgrade.