extra cooling?

Clb

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That was an interesting mod right there!
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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Also if there's room, some of the flaps that will open say when you're driving and the fans aren't on can help for flow.
Probably bad way of describing it. Lol

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I eventually wired the lower fans to always run and the uppers to run all the time when above 140F at the radiator outlet. They all 4 always ran, plus the 2 pushers i have up front on my intercooler radiator. I thought about the flaps but was more concerned they might direct air away from the flow of the fans or not seal right and all the fans to suck and from the engine bay rather than them being seal and having to pull only from the radiator
 

79jasper

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I've seen many say the mark VIII fans are somewhere around 4200-4900 each. Most mount 2.
I've seen some say the factory 7.3 psd fan is around 10k cfm.
On the 7.3, 6.0, and 6.4, they're using the 7.3 psd kit made by flexalite, two fans claiming 6400 or so. I don't know if that's individual fans, or total.

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79jasper

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Yeah, that one.
Notice how they say 6200 and 5000 cfm in the same ad?
Hmm...
But I've seen people use their "shroud" and controller with the MKVIII fans also.
Apparently the controller is pretty nice.

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snicklas

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I still say take a look at the Crown Vic fan from the police package...... from what I am reading, they move as much or more than the Mark VIII fan.....

I have a complete assembly, out of the car, that I can take pictures and measurements of. The reason it's out of the vehicle, the controller (on the 05ish up Crown Vics, it has a controller that gives an infinitely variable fan speed rather than a low/hi setup, but the earlier ones are a low/hi setup, you can run B+ to the fan and it will run) went out so no fan. I could have ran a Key-On Relay and let the fan just run..... but I was able to get a replacement through a buddy at a decent price, so I replaced the whole unit, fan, shroud and controller.....

Here is what the entire unit looks like.....

This is the engine side, the controller is in the upper left, the box that is bolted to the shroud:

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This is the radiator side:

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I can take detailed pictures and measurements if you like, I can also take pictures and measurements still attached to the radiator in the Crown Vic...... I also have both types that I can take pictures of, the early style (2000) and the later (2007) style...... only the 07 one is off the car though.........

It also looks like you could use the controller. The PCM sends a signal to the controller, and the module runs the fan accordingly...... not sure how easily this could be duplicated....... but if it could you could vary the cooling fan from almost nothing, to "wide open"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfwBN-U9KVg
 

chris142

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a buddy of mime is the "mad scientist" on AC systems. I leave the entire mess up to him. it's not a problem below 95* outside. above 110* in AZ and NM, and Barstow, CA is where I blow my safeties in traffic. The system has been properly flushed, and there is no shrapnel collecting on the orifice.
How much refrigerant is he putting in?
 

rockcrawler_101

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So i put in a new gauge that is electronic but shows the temp. I also replaced the heater core lines and now have a nice slow leak on the heater core! JOY. But back to the gauge, its showing around 210 degrees but when i scan the radiator or even the coolant in the radiator its a lot cooler. I know the thermostat should be opening up in the 190 range. So think i should change the thermostat also? The factory sensor i put into the head and it seems to be working fine.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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i don't always need extra engine cooling but,when i do,the ford windstar fans do the job.:D

i kinda chuckle a little when i see all the worries about CFM ratings and or Mechanical blowing so much.why? because i have a variable rate fan controller with an indicator in the cab that shows how much draw the fans are using.the dual windstar fans only spin on low and medium when they do come on 99% of the time.it's very rare i see them on high and when they do run on high (my indicator light turns red in the cab) *it's only for a min or two and they turn back down or just off, if im going down the road on flat grade.

there's too much fear of coolant temps over 200F here. 240F is safe guys.240F it's a diesel!



*true,the major reason they only need to be on high so little is due to extra oil cooling i added.
 

chris142

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I work at a shop that specializes in cooling systems. A Windstar fan,lincoln,taurus ect can't even compare to a stock mechanical fan with a correctly working fan clutch.ya 240 is the upper end of safe. But an idi pulling a load of toys up cajon,grapevine or mountain pass will boil over with electric fans
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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I work at a shop that specializes in cooling systems. A Windstar fan,lincoln,taurus ect can't even compare to a stock mechanical fan with a correctly working fan clutch.ya 240 is the upper end of safe. But an idi pulling a load of toys up cajon,grapevine or mountain pass will boil over with electric fans


but there are those of us who don't need electric fans to compare to mechanic ones because we don't haul toys up cajon,grapevine or mountain pass.:D

not to say i don't work my truck however either.;)
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i dare say there's a couple people around this forum not doing as much as this either.;)

the goal isn't to match the power robbing and economy killing stock mechanical engine fan.that would be pointless.the goal is to keep that power and fuel that a stock,power robbing and economy killing mechanical engine fan uses, while maintaining safe 210-240F engine temps doing normal driving/play/work duties.
 

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