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Extending coolant change interval (switching coolants)

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by eldonderino, Apr 18, 2019.

  1. eldonderino

    eldonderino Registered User

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    Well here's another coolant question for you all, maybe a stupid one but i haven't been able to find an answer.

    I've done lots of reading but I'm still unsure of what flush intervals people are doing (if any) when they switch to other coolants like CAT, fleet charge, or Fleetguard Compleat EG.


    EDIT: I guess I posted too soon. I'm assuming everyone who's running "lifetime coolants" have installed coolant filters to maintain the coolant, otherwise flushes would be required. So there's no point in switching over unless i put the filter in at the same time.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019
  2. BeastMaster

    BeastMaster Registered User

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    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019
  3. Slicknik

    Slicknik Registered User

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    First thing you need to do is watch this video if you own a Ford lol it's 15 minutes and you will be glad you did .



    Secondly.......

    Coolant choice is very very simple you need the plain Jane green coolant , the most basic , no additives. Some good ol' propylene glycol concentrate. And this next statement is gonna sting but it's some truth

    If you have to buy 50/50 to do a coolant swap , you probably shouldnt be changing your coolant

    Running new coolant choices like CAT extended life coolant , stay away you will run into cavitation issues down the road. It has additional additives in the coolant( to last longer) that will destroy your motor

    You can also get PH strips to check the acidicness of your coolant (5$ cheap and useful )
     
  4. Scooch

    Scooch Registered User

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    @Slicknik where did you ever see that extended life coolants will cause cativation or ruin a motor? Most elc's are rated for bigger trucks and if you stay away from the ones with orangic acids etc that are harsh they are fine for our trucks? There are many guys running elc in our trucks.
    Also, plain green coolant is fine but you need to add sca's to it not just plain coolant no additives.
     
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  5. eldonderino

    eldonderino Registered User

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    Hey thanks for the replies, I will check out that video.

    I'm sticking with the plain green + added SCA's for the at least the next couple years since I have everything to do a flush. And probably switch it out afterwards to a longer lasting coolant If I haven't been convinced otherwise.

    I just read the Cavitation Article: https://www.oilburners.net/articles/cavitationartic.html and the author states:

    "There are many that run ELCs in IDIs and claim to have no problems. The advantage is you need to change your coolant far less often. But for me, why risk it? I'll just change my coolant every 30,000 miles or so and be happy with my engine."

    So, I suppose there's really no answer. You're potentially letting a problem go longer unnoticed (if there is an issue with the cooling system) with ELC. I suppose I have a couple years to make a decision.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  6. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    I run Zerex HD ELC coolant myself. Also Zerex G-05 Gold coolant is similarly spec'd.

    Both are excellent at preventing cavitation-corrosion, don't destroy old seals, and boast a 3-5 year rating.

    Remember, the reason it's an ELC is because of the fancy anti-cavitation/corrosion compounds in there which can be dosed very heavily; the "protection capacity" is very high.
    In addition, the Zerex HD ELC can be simply dosed with a new "additive pack" at the end of it's life, and by doing this you double it's(very long) life.

    Traditional SCAs have to be dosed at a precise level -- too low and you get cavitation, too high and it starts destroying your water pump.
    https://www.acustrip.com/sca.html
     
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  7. Cubey

    Cubey Full Access Member

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    Recently, I dumped Zerex G-05 in mine after draining, back flushing, running radiator cleaner, a few days draining, back flushing again, then filling up with it and city water run through an RV water filter (it does a good job). No SCAs to worry about adding. Just keep it topped off with 50/50 and it should be good now until 2022, if not longer.
     
  8. eldonderino

    eldonderino Registered User

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    Thanks. I like the idea of using something like Zerex cause it's easy to find.
     
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  9. chris142

    chris142 Full Access Member

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    Watch out for some of the long life,all makes all models coolants. Many are based on Dexcool. They will eat the solder out of radiators,heater cores and oil coolers.
     
  10. CDX825

    CDX825 filtration nut

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    Final Charge is a good ELC if you can find it locally.
     
  11. nelstomlinson

    nelstomlinson Full Access Member

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    I use the NAPA green coolant, and the NAPA test strips to check the pH and SCA levels. As long as the coolant isn't getting too far from neutral pH, I leave it in.
     

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