Electrical issues.

ProcessTech

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I have a ‘91 F-250, 7.3 IDI. Just replaced the alternator and voltage regulator due to battery light staying on. Neither we’re old, but reman alternator and voltage regulator had some rust and corrosion. Drove approx. 5 miles from my mechanic’s shop and noticed when accelerating, the truck was losing power, and battery voltage gauge and tach both went to zero. Limped the truck home and let it sit for two days. Yesterday I went to start the truck and it fired right up and idles normal. The only thing I need to do is fix my exhaust where the pipe broke away from the muffler. Any ideas? I’ve been told it could be a ground issue, I don’t know. I’m by far an automotive electrician. Thanks in advance.
 

Big Bart

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First just check the obvious things.

1) Your battery terminals are all clean and tight.
2) Your block ground (From the battery to the front of engine) is clean and tight.
3) Your plug into your alt is in correctly, tight, and right. So is the charge cable.
4) The plug going into the voltage regulator is on correctly and making contact on all pins. (It is not easy to get these off or put back on.)

If yes to all the above then here is a long shot but mabye your issue. One of the wires that grounds your regulator goes into a spliced connection, and mabye another sliced connector, before getting grounded to the truck. (This is all on your passenger fender well.)

When I did the starter soleniod (Gave out after my compression test last year.) I moved/bumped the wiring around in that area. Then my alternator light came on after getting the solenoid in. I followed the wires out of the regulator and low and behold I beleive it was the black one, went from the regulator plug, to a slide connector, and I want to say another slide connector, then screwed into the fender well. Turns out these connections were corroded. Just moving that connector around moved it over inside to a spot that was corroded and caused a lack of ground. I cleaned up the connectors, plugged back in and whammy it all worked. So just check for that.

Another possibility is the wire from your alt to the starter solenoid is the charge wire. Not any old wire, it is a fusible link wire. No fuse as you know it, rather too many amps and it burns inside and stops the connection. (But you cannot see it burned.) Then no power from the alternator to the positive side of the electrical system. So you may want to OHM check that wire.

Then if not like mentioned above could be one or both parts are bad. Never assume new parts work, often they do not. Most auto parts stores can test both parts. Don't be bashful to take the parts to a differnet store and ask them to test to confirm they are working.

Some videos that might give you some ideas

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Post some pics and let us know what you found!
 
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Big Bart

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Just one last comment, in the future put this in the 6.9/7.3 IDI forum. This is the Powerstoke 7.3 forum. Although some look in both, you will find more folks will comment on IDI's in the other forum.
 

TNBrett

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Are you running an electric lift pump? Otherwise, I’m not sure how an electrical issue would cause the loss of power symptom you describe.


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ProcessTech

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Thank you to all. Until I bought this truck for my son, I’ve never owned a diesel. It’s all a learning for me. Thanks again, to all for your inputs. Dan
 

Kizer

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the truck was losing power, and battery voltage gauge and tach both went to zero.

Welcome to the forum.

Gauges going to zero: Sounds like something groundin' out to me.

Loss of power: Sounds like restricted fuel flow to me.
Did it "surge" or smoke during "power loss"?

*** All of my trucks are manual transmission trucks. I have zero knowledge regarding auto. trans. associated power loss.
 

ProcessTech

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I didn’t notice any smoking, but unfortunately that was the Least of my worries. I was trying to keep from stalling out in the middle of the road. I am Not running an electrical lift pump. I just about either replaced or had rebuilt everything on this truck. Both transmissions, water pump, vacuum pump, power steering pump, radiator, starter, starter solenoid, brakes, etc. I probably have 15k in receipts. New A/C, fuel pump, rear fuel tank. If you know anyone in the Houston area looking for a 1991 F-250 4x4, with 7.3 liter IDI, it’s there’s. I’m tired of fighting this thing.
 

unclehoser

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Don't give up yet! You've got funds invested. Step back, regroup, think, analyze, and keep asking advice HERE. They're simple machines, nothing more, and man rules them! If man built it, man can fix it.

I knew absolutely nothing about diesel engines or my particular truck four years ago. Thanks to the fine gentlemen I've had the pleasure of acquiring knowledge from on this site, I've managed to keep my repair and maintenance costs to a small percentage of what I would have spent at a commercial shop.

I wish you the best of luck...you WILL figure it out in the long run!

Cheers...
Dave
 

IDIBRONCO

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This may not help much, but I think that you have two separate problems. One is the electrical one. The other is the losing power under acceleration and trying to stall. Just remember that a lot of mechanics these days don't work on these engines and may have never seen one before.
 

ProcessTech

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Thanks guys, for All y’all’s input. I’m having the truck towed back to my mechanic. He’s a great guy and very good and fair. That’s hard to find these days. He’ll figure it out. Thanks again and I’ll let y’all know the culprits. Dan
 

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