E4OD Won't move

nightrunner84

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When sitting in line at a drive-through, I put it in gear to pull away and it wouldn't move. Forward or reverse. It kinda tried, but the engine just revved, and it barley moved. Someone helped me push it out of line, and while it was rolling down a slight incline, I hit the converter lock-up switch that I put in a few years ago. The bogged the motor down almost to stall, but I could make a loop in the parking lot and put it in a spot. That was definitely first gear, not second (limp home). Also, the fluid level is correct. Also, I tried putting is in first and second with the shifter, no difference.

It must have hydraulic pressure to be in first gear and not second, so the pump is OK, and the TCM is getting power?

So, I think there's something going on with the stator, impeller, or turbine inside the torque converter. Does this sound logical? I'd hate to put a converter in it, only to find out it was something else.
 

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IDIBRONCO

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So, I think there's something going on with the stator, impeller, or turbine inside the torque converter. Does this sound logical?
With the caveat that I'm no transmission expert, that would be my guess too. The fact that you can use your manual(?) switch, lock up the convertor, and then move the truck around makes me think that way.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I agree it sounds like a torque converter issue. Hopefully it didn't fill your trans with metal, I'd pull the pan and see what's stuck to the magnet. If the pan doesn't show anything terrible maybe just a torque converter will fix you up? Hopefully the resident E4OD expert will chime in with an educated response.
 

KansasIDI

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I agree it sounds like a torque converter issue. Hopefully it didn't fill your trans with metal, I'd pull the pan and see what's stuck to the magnet.

This recently happened to my dump truck, found chunks of snap ring when I dropped the pan…
 

trackspeeder

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The converter is shot. Drop the pan, check for high amounts of metal. If it's clean you can go with a new converter. You will need to flush out the tranny and cooler really good.
If you have an aftermarket cooler, replace it.

If you have a lot of metal you should rebuild or replace the tranny. This goes for high mileage units to. Why put a new converter on a high mileage tranny that is on borrowed time.
 

david85

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For anyone else wondering, the lack of reverse is usually a dead giveaway that something has gone wrong mechanically. Aside from harsh engagement, reverse should work normally, even with no electrical power to the transmission. In theory, the factory filter should protect the transmission from debris, but there are no guarantees when it comes to this sort of thing. And there's good reason that most warranties require a return line filter from the cooler for rebuilt units.

Failure of the converter often happens near idle for some reason. Might have something to do with approaching the stall speed, which causes a slight fluid hammer effect, as the converter starts transmitting torque.

If you're short on cash, you could try swapping the converter and just run with it. Some have gotten away with that. Some haven't...
 

nightrunner84

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UPDATE! Finally got the trans out since it's been warmer. We pulled the pan and drained the fluid, there wasn't any metal in it. When turning the converter for pulling the flywheel nuts, I could hear something rattle inside it. After getting it out of the trans, I rolled it across the floor, and there is a LARGE AMOUNT of debris that can be heard inside it. Tried to shake some out, but nothing came out. I'm buying another converter, and should have it in within a couple of weeks. Only problem is, I can't find the same triple-loc converter that I bought the first time. All the others are like $1000+. So, what converter would you use? It needs to have 4 studs, not 6.
 
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