E4OD to ZF5 swap... Here goes nothing!

[jonleroy2506]

Hey all,


Just started the E4OD to ZF5 swap and all I need is a rear driveline. I have a while parts truck, but it's a single cab and the truck the ZF5 is going into is an extended cab. So unfortunately neither of the rear driveline I have will work. I plan to hit a few junkyards after work here in the next couple days to find the proper driveline. Rather than looking for a truck that perfectly matches mine and has the right transmission and transfer case and such I think that knowing the proper length of the driveline would be helpful. If anyone happens to know that measurement I would appreciate some information. I would assume that the I joints will all be the same size, but I don't want to buy a driveline and find out it's not going to work. Should this be a concern? Or if I find an extended cab 4x4 truck with a ZF5 in it should all the u joints work properly? Any info is appreciated.

 

[cre1992]

I am in the process of getting my driveshaft lengthened 5 3/4" for my zf5 swap. My truck has a 160.8" or 161" wheel base. Talk to a driveshaft shop. They're most likely going to want a measurement from the center of the yoke u-joint to the center of the carrier bearing. It would also be beneficial to post the wheelbase of your truck and other information about the truck you are doing the swap in.

Update: After getting the driveshaft back and installing it, I should have had them lengthen the driveshaft 5.5" instead. It fits but I have no room left for adjustment.

 

[jonleroy2506]

How did you determine how long to get it lengthened to?

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[cre1992]

Call the driveshaft place you will be working with. Note my truck is a 1990 F-350 4x4 chassis cab that came with an E4OD and a BW1356 transfer case with a wheel base of 160.8". Your results might vary. I slid my old driveshaft slip yoke back into its place in the transfer case, then I measured from the center bearing/mid shift bearing to where it needed to sit to be centered on the bracket. However I was told afterward by the shop that the correct way to measure was from the center of the u joint on the slip yoke back to the center of the midshaft bearing bracket on the frame. I had them lengthen the front portion of the rear driveshaft, balance both sections of the rear drive shaft, and install all new u joints and a center bearing while it was there. Came out to about $400. More than I wanted to spend, but I have enough to do on the truck as it is. I don't have a press and didn't feel like messing around with a brick/hammer/socket, or a ball joint press.