E4OD post-mortem, rebuild and upgrades

[david85]

Another upgrade is a cooler bypass and 3/8" steel cooler lines. I probably should have removed the spring from the tubing, but I didn't want to have to redo the double flair on one end. A new cooler and magnetic return line filter were also installed but a better upgrade would have been a 4R110 style cooler from a wrecker, for those who plan on serious towing.

This new cooling setup replaces a twin cooler that was plumbed in series. It will be interesting to see what temperatures this produces. Usually the trans would get up to 175 on the highway in the summer. I don't think I ever saw it reach 180, but this was measured at the TOT on the solenoid body via laptop, so it's possible it did get hotter on some occasions and I didn't know.

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[trackspeeder]

Richard is an inspiration on many levels (YouTube Channel: Precision Transmissions, for those who aren't familiar). It always hits me in the feels when I see a Father and Son getting along like that (I was similarly blessed in my life). Also glad to see him back to work after his surgery. Heh, his first teardown after returning was a 4R100.


Early indicators my E4OD are good but I've only been able to run the transmission on blocks since I'm waiting for one of the front fenders to come back from the paint shop.

Engagement in forward or reverse is 0.8 seconds (!!!!). I timed it repeatedly and came up with a similar number every time. This is huge for me because reverse engagement was usually 1 to 2 seconds. I removed the wave plate so it is a little more positive but I'll take it. I think the reverse clutch clearance was 0.065" 13 years ago, since ford had no official recommendation and the ATSG manual didn't have a number either. Since then I found other guys that are running them closer to 0.040", specifically to deal with delayed reverse. Mine is right around 0.045" now, which may have helped reduce delay. The Tugger kit also recommends removing 1/3 of the return springs for the reverse piston on this vintage of E4OD, which I did not do. Later E4OD/4R100s have smaller springs.

Manual low is also instantaneous, which may be partly due to the new accumulator springs from the transgo tugger kit. Shifting down into manual 2 or 1 was always sluggish before, and according to the transgo documentation, indicates slipping. Now, I can manually start in 1, then manually shift into 2 and the upshift is instant. Drop back down to 1, and it's again instant (even at idle engine speed). I can go from 3rd gear straight down to 1 and the downshift is still completed in about 0.5 seconds. Very crisp operation. I haven't shifted into overdrive since wheel speed would be to high to safely run on blocks, but the 3-4 shift was always good, even with the old build. I might try a custom program just to engage 4th at lower speed and help clear any air in that circuit before the road test.

There are so many things I replaced that I think its hard to really say if any one upgrade or repair had the most effect. I can't wait to see what the road test is like.

Ford has no clearance spec for the low/reverse clutch pack. In stock for they usually run around .050-.060"+. The quick fix is replacing the boost valve. Sonnax and TransGo address this problem with their kits. The better way is to reduce the stack clearance. Try to keep it around 0.20"-0.40". Combined with the quick fix makes for a speedy shift.

 

[david85]

Ford has no clearance spec for the low/reverse clutch pack. In stock for they usually run around .050-.060"+. The quick fix is replacing the boost valve. Sonnax and TransGo address this problem with their kits. The better way is to reduce the stack clearance. Try to keep it around 0.20"-0.40". Combined with the quick fix makes for a speedy shift.

Yup, I already had the sonnax boost valve installed from before but reverse engagement was still slow. I couldn't be happier that forward and reverse now have the same engagement time of less than one second. I guess if I ever build another one (maybe as a spare ) I can tighten up the clearance even more on all the clutch packs.

 

[david85]

Something else I did with the transmission is replace every single bushing. I didn't photograph all of it, but I got all of them. I'm also running the sonnax 1-piece tailshaft bushing shown here: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2050-rear-case-bushing

The old bushings were replaced 13 years ago and didn't show much wear. The one upgrade I missed was to replace the parking gear thrust washer with a roller bearing (4R100s have this). But again, this didn't show any wear so not a big deal.

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[quickster]

Awesome write up. Props to you. And a drain plug in the pan!

 

[david85]

No new photos on this one, just a quick update.

Short version: It drives.

Long Version:

I still have plenty of things to wrap up from the 4wd conversion but I was able to take it around the block a few times. Reverse is still solid and has a massive amount of torque compared to before. Engagement times are still under 1s.

Upshifting into 2nd and 3rd is - SOLID. No slip at all. It's not so noticeable at light throttle when the shift happens low in the engine RPMs. But as soon as I'm into moderate throttle - BANG. Not tire churping, but it is very fast. Same when accelerating up steeper grades. No amount of modding the electronic line pressure curve could accomplish this before. I haven't attempted full throttle yet.

Manual Low was not quite as aggressive as I feared when I first tried running the truck on blocks. It's not instantaneous like upshifting, but it is quicker than before and much more consistent.

I was not able to test kickdown under load yet.

Obviously the extra frictions on the intermediate (1-2 shift) and direct (2-3 shift) clutch packs made a big difference. I also installed a brand new solenoid body, so it's possible the old one wasn't modulating properly. I'm going to try lowering the line pressure curve in the computer to see if it makes any difference. Alternatively, I can dial down the accumulator springs from the Transgo tugger kit... so I can soften the shifts a little (blasphemy!).

Overall, I'm happy with early results.

 

[Chemgrad]

Hello,

Is there a way to save a thread? I'd like to save this thread so I can come back and read it thoroughly later when I have time. Thanks all

 

[Farmer Rock]

Hello,

Is there a way to save a thread? I'd like to save this thread so I can come back and read it thoroughly later when I have time. Thanks all

I am not sure about saving it, someone else might know more about that, but what I do is hit the "watch thread" link so when I need to find something I just hit the "watched threads" link and it shows all the threads you are keeping an eye on.


Rock

 

[Chemgrad]

I am not sure about saving it, someone else might know more about that, but what I do is hit the "watch thread" link so when I need to find something I just hit the "watched threads" link and it shows all the threads you are keeping an eye on.


Rock

Thanks a bunch Farmer Rock. Does it automatically "watch" every thread that you reply to? Curious because I didn't hit watch thread but I noticed I had the option to un-watch. Once again thanks for the help

 

[Cubey]

Richard is an inspiration on many levels (YouTube Channel: Precision Transmissions, for those who aren't familiar).

Yep, I have watched many of his videos. Trans rebuilds are beyond my skill level and I don't have a workshop, but if I wanted to dive into trying to do a C6 rebuild or similar, I'd study his videos for reference.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Thanks a bunch Farmer Rock. Does it automatically "watch" every thread that you reply to? Curious because I didn't hit watch thread but I noticed I had the option to un-watch. Once again thanks for the help

Yes, every thread you reply to is automatically watched, or subscribed. Thats why some people chime in just to write, "subscribing" in a thread. Took me like 5 years to figure that out!

OP: Nice work! I'm a stickshift guy but I just went through my Corolla A/T. Never could get it fixed but I have a lot of respect for the amount of labor involved in rebuilding one. And tenacity, and dexterity while covered in ATF...
Oh and I love the bench! With that little tool shelf right above and behind the work space. Genius!

 

[Booyah45828]

I love the work bench too. What kind of paper did you use to cover it though? Looks coated of some sort, almost like butcher paper.

 

[david85]

I love the work bench too. What kind of paper did you use to cover it though? Looks coated of some sort, almost like butcher paper.

Vinyl decking material - 60mil thick. We used to install this for a living and have tons of scrap leftover.

 

[david85]

Well, Crap...

It looks like the converter clutch won't engage. I had to replace the connector at the trans controller, so I was hoping it was a wiring fault. Today I even injected 12V into the connector with the engine off and can hear the TCC solenoid clicking in the transmission. So that leaves the rest of the system inside the trans. After much reading, I'm 95% sure I'll have to pull the transmission and inspect the pump. I have a feeling one of Converter Control Valve may be stuck.

Last time I had a stuck valve, it was in the valve body and after several attempts I wasn't able to save it. I ended up getting a new valve body. Since the pump can't be replaced without pulling the trans, I may have to replace the valve. If I can find one. The other options are to buy a new pump or make a steel valve. So far, I'm coming up empty on any aftermarket sources for the valve.

Anyway, I'll know more when I pull the trans and inspect.

 

[david85]

Still no good news...I've pulled the transmission two more times and still can't get the converter to lock.

The pump valves move freely and I was able to observe some kind of lockup on the bench using compressed air (with pump on the converter). But in the truck, no go. At first I thought maybe it was because I didn't install 100% of the tugger kit, leaving some of the mods out (such as drilling the separator plate). After installing everything, all I got for my trouble was delayed reverse engagement. Pretty sure it was the orifice plug on the low reverse circuit of the main separator plate that cause it. At any rate, it made no effect on the lockup.

I tried swapping in the old solenoid body, and that also made no difference.


Most recent attempt was to replace the new converter Teflon seal with the old one, since the new one measured slightly smaller. Still no joy. I have a rebuilt pump on order and if that doesn't work, the TC will be going back to the builder for inspection. The worst part about all of this is it takes a minimum 2 weeks to get anything here.

And here I thought I was so close to a happy ending...

On the upside, my rear differential gears arrived. I guess I could set those up while waiting.