Dreaded ATS OEM Turbo Up-pipe slip joint leak has killed my boost 2022 edition.

Nero

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Ever heard of Rem Flex? The fastenall dealer just showed up at my work and suggested it, says it's a big hunk of graphite gasket material used to seal exhaust flanges. Never tried it myself.
 

ocnorb

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No, but Fastenall is the kind of place that would have good industrial grade materials. I’ll scope it out. Thanks.
 

cozinsky

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I had the exact same problem with mine. At the suggestion of others here I tried copper RTV. It held, but every time I pushed it hard it would blow out and my boost would drop to almost nothing. Three times I blew out the RTV. I finally found a simple, permanent fix. I noticed a standard aerosol can is almost the same diameter as the slip pipe connection, so I used my chop saw and cut a ring about 3/4" long from an empty brake cleaner can. It was a little too big to fit so I used a tin snips to split it, then overlapped the ends. I slipped it up inside the female end, then coated the male end with some Walker 35959 exhaust sealant. It was a nice, snug fit. Its been holding tight for over a year now, hasn't given a bit of trouble since.
 

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asmith

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I have the same problem. my up pipe leaks pretty bad. @IDIoit can make you a new one that eliminates it, but you need to send him yours. He doesnt have any extra ones laying around, as they are really hard to find. That is my problem, my truck is my daily work truck so i cant have it down for the week or so it would take to send out to him and get it back.
I believe Wes at CDD has just welded them up in the past. tack it in place and then pull it and finish welding all the way around. seems like there would be expansion issues, but maybe not.
 

1mouse3

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I believe Wes at CDD has just welded them up in the past. tack it in place and then pull it and finish welding all the way around. seems like there would be expansion issues, but maybe not.

If thought is to weld it as one and are worryed about expansion or movement causing cracks. You can get a flex section to put in the pipe. This is a list of what Im taking about but the numbers dont cross to what oreillys list, even tho they cary them.

flexy pipe
 

ocnorb

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I had the exact same problem with mine. At the suggestion of others here I tried copper RTV. It held, but every time I pushed it hard it would blow out and my boost would drop to almost nothing. Three times I blew out the RTV. I finally found a simple, permanent fix. I noticed a standard aerosol can is almost the same diameter as the slip pipe connection, so I used my chop saw and cut a ring about 3/4" long from an empty brake cleaner can. It was a little too big to fit so I used a tin snips to split it, then overlapped the ends. I slipped it up inside the female end, then coated the male end with some Walker 35959 exhaust sealant. It was a nice, snug fit. Its been holding tight for over a year now, hasn't given a bit of trouble since.
Very cool!

Since you’ve done it so many times…
Maybe you could answer this question; I have my crossover pipe out and the y-pipe nuts off - it’s loose, but I can’t get it to clear the exhaust manifold studs and drop. Do I need to remove the studs or is there another trick? Does the turbo need to be unbolted from the up-pipe??
 

ocnorb

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I have the same problem. my up pipe leaks pretty bad. @IDIoit can make you a new one that eliminates it, but you need to send him yours. He doesnt have any extra ones laying around, as they are really hard to find. That is my problem, my truck is my daily work truck so i cant have it down for the week or so it would take to send out to him and get it back.
I believe Wes at CDD has just welded them up in the past. tack it in place and then pull it and finish welding all the way around. seems like there would be expansion issues, but maybe not.
I don’t know if ATS and Ford would have made these slip joints if welding would work?? I’m hoping the Deacon is half the magic they claim.
 

ocnorb

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To answer my own question. It turned out to be easier to pull the passenger side manifold.

This is what winning looks like:

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IDIBRONCO

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Very cool!

Since you’ve done it so many times…
Maybe you could answer this question; I have my crossover pipe out and the y-pipe nuts off - it’s loose, but I can’t get it to clear the exhaust manifold studs and drop. Do I need to remove the studs or is there another trick? Does the turbo need to be unbolted from the up-pipe??

To answer my own question. It turned out to be easier to pull the passenger side manifold.

This is what winning looks like:

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Now, to save yourself a lot of time and headaches when you put it back and in the future, remove the studs from the manifold and use bolts in their place. The next time you have to remove that y/up pipe, you'll thank me.
 

ocnorb

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I sent this to pic my buddy and he said it looked like I dipped it in cow poo…
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So guess we can call this the poo-pipe mod or something like that.
 

ocnorb

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Just back from the heat cure. Wastegate wired open I drove around the backroads for about an hour. Had my camper on. Temperature ranged widely from 300-800F but not real consistent. Kept the rpm under 2000. Decided to get on a highway; much better. I was able to get up to 70 without too much smoke and cruise along with traffic. EGTs stayed over 700F and we saw 1190 on some hills. Confident it should be cured.
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ocnorb

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Here’s what it looks like post-cure:
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It almost looks like someone welded it!!

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asmith

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I don’t know if ATS and Ford would have made these slip joints if welding would work?? I’m hoping the Deacon is half the magic they claim.
Yeah I am not a welder, but I assume expansion and contraction is the point of the slip joint. That is why @IDIoit uses a bellowed section. I just have talked with the guys at CDD to see if they had a product to fix this problematic joint and they said they have just welded them up in the past without issue. :dunno

Hopefully this Deacon stuff works well. did you have to clean the joint real well?
 

snicklas

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Yeah I am not a welder, but I assume expansion and contraction is the point of the slip joint. That is why @IDIoit uses a bellowed section.

I think it would be expansion, or possibly engine to frame movement.

I know on the earlier 7.3PSD's Ford used a bellows pipe in the up pipes. Then later 7.3 and on the 6.0 I think they used a different type of joint that looked like woven wire's..... Think carbon fiber.... but with a steel wire that would allow movement......
 

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