Draining oil rails for injectors removal

[OLDBULL8]

These are the tools and sleeves you would need. But if you have any that leak coolant, ya gotta do it.

If ya have to do it, just make sure they go in straight or they'll leak, not fun doing it all over again.

I've got the whole set, just waiting for a need to pull the injectors.

http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/tools.htm

 

[Agnem]

Here is how I do it. Drain the rail. Remove the allen head plugs in the rail under the valve cover. I don't mess with the big one on the back. Once that is done, get a penny out of your pocket and get it coated with wheel bearing grease. Yank the rearmost injector and drop that penny in the cup and stab it with a screw driver. This will seal the bottom of the cup and the oil will pool on top of it. Then you can suck it out, get the penny out, and clean up the cup. No need to let oil drain into the cylinder if you don't have to. I always bar the engine over a couple of times to make sure there is no chance of hydrolock.

 

[79jasper]

That's a good trick.
Gonna put that one in the toolbox. Lol

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[Kevin 007]

Did the injector swap today. Pulled them all out, pressurized the cooling system (I didn't drain the coolant), looked closely at all the cups and NO LEAKS!! So that was a big plus! Installed the good injectors with new orings after sucking out cyl # 7 and 8 with a mighty vac. (I wasn't quick enough with the penny and next thing I knew...it was too late) Then I spun the engine over by hand with the glow plugs out, then with the starter, then installed the new Buru plugs with new Motorcraft valve cover gaskets and UVCH, cranked it over a bunch and fired up and ran pretty good. Just got in from a test drive of running it HARD and it smoked hard for a while then it eased off and its now running and starting pretty good. Will cold start it in the a.m and see how it does.

Oh and fresh 5w-40 T6 oil

Thanks very much for the support fellas.

 

[79jasper]

Since you're done now.
I'd like to see some other opinions. I'm a believer in the ford gaskets and harnesses also.
But lately I've seen ranting and raving over the dormans. Apparently they updated the design.
I can link the thread if anyone's interested. It's on fte.

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[Kevin 007]

The old gaskets were burnt at the plugs....albeit still working. So, I feel its worth the money to go Ford OEM....my .02. BUT they aint cheap

 

[79jasper]

Oh definitely more expensive up front.
Basically I got slammed for saying to avoid dorman. Then they showed me the thread. Apparently the Motorcraft ones are now outsourced also.
There was a guy that has a shop and exclusively uses dorman now. Said zero issues.
But does have issues with the Motorcraft ones right out of the box.

Not real sure. Just something that came up lol
But if anyone wants to check it out. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1443030-i-like-this-better-than-0-50-mod.html

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[Kevin 007]

Pretty much everything is a crap shoot it seems. Auto parts and otherwise

 

[79jasper]

Exactly. Lol
Auto parts are like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get.

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[IDIoit]

I wont use dorman's
ive had 3 sets on my truck.
the first set lasted 7 months.
the second set lasted about a year.
the 3rd set I gave to a buddy, and right out of the gate, one was screwed.
I hate the price of motorcraft, but if I can leave them on and not have an issue for a few years,
ill pay it!

 

[79jasper]

Supposedly they updated the design this year. To the one piece without connectors from the gasket to UVCH'S.
I don't know, still iffy. Lol

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[Kevin 007]

Yes I have also heard this!!! Haven't seen it yet tho.

Man, the truck is sure running better, most notably when its cold