I just had to pull my gear/gear cover too but due to a stripped bolt on the cover after replacing the injection pump. I did the marking of the gears when I took it off and lined them back up when putting it back on. After, the engine was rattling loud obviously advanced a tooth. This method is not fool proof! I had to drive the truck for 100kms before redoing the gears and it was like the advance was on all the time. The cleaning of the silicone off the block and off the cover is wayyy more of a pain then those pump nuts, and I used a angle die grinder with scotch brite "cookie" pads. The second time I pulled the cover to properly align the gears I used a shiny ruler to see the "Y" on the cam gear.
DO NOT FOLLOW YOUTUBE VIDEO RE PULLING IP PUMP, HELP ME PLEASE, PICS ENCLOSED
- Thread starter johneich
- Start date
i lined mine up by mirror made the same mistake this time i followed a manual thats the bad part but
mine runs fine problly a tooth off but ip can make that up
but what im seeing is a lot of work to fix right and im going to do that this summer with a cam swap and other things
one tip you could use is that the crank pully can be a pita to get off i broke 4 pullers on my parts motor and said forget it but there should be enough play with the bolts out to get the marks lined up but cleaning up the gasket surface youre on youre own
mine runs fine problly a tooth off but ip can make that up
but what im seeing is a lot of work to fix right and im going to do that this summer with a cam swap and other things
one tip you could use is that the crank pully can be a pita to get off i broke 4 pullers on my parts motor and said forget it but there should be enough play with the bolts out to get the marks lined up but cleaning up the gasket surface youre on youre own
i lined mine up by mirror made the same mistake this time i followed a manual thats the bad part but
mine runs fine problly a tooth off but ip can make that up
but what im seeing is a lot of work to fix right and im going to do that this summer with a cam swap and other things
one tip you could use is that the crank pully can be a pita to get off i broke 4 pullers on my parts motor and said forget it but there should be enough play with the bolts out to get the marks lined up but cleaning up the gasket surface youre on youre own
mine runs fine problly a tooth off but ip can make that up
but what im seeing is a lot of work to fix right and im going to do that this summer with a cam swap and other things
one tip you could use is that the crank pully can be a pita to get off i broke 4 pullers on my parts motor and said forget it but there should be enough play with the bolts out to get the marks lined up but cleaning up the gasket surface youre on youre own
johneich
John, 1983 F250
This is starting to make sense, little more help please
1) All I can find is coiled stainless shim stock, would this work fine for me?
2) Gary, when you say turn the motor around, do you mean with a remote starter switch? or with some kind of breaker bar? I have both, how would I attach a breaker bar?
3) If I have this right, I line up the "dot" marks on the bottom front of the engine, then the "Y" is at the top, count off the 17 gear teeth as you described, put on my IP gear, verify the two "Ys" are meeting with the shim stock and bolt it all back together.
1) All I can find is coiled stainless shim stock, would this work fine for me?
2) Gary, when you say turn the motor around, do you mean with a remote starter switch? or with some kind of breaker bar? I have both, how would I attach a breaker bar?
3) If I have this right, I line up the "dot" marks on the bottom front of the engine, then the "Y" is at the top, count off the 17 gear teeth as you described, put on my IP gear, verify the two "Ys" are meeting with the shim stock and bolt it all back together.
johneich
John, 1983 F250
Gary, look at my first post again please (link below), see the red marks I made on the IP gear, my engine has not been moved (turned), If I line up the marks I made on the IP gear, bolt/set it on the top of the gear, bump the engine around, verify the Y marks are properly matched, could this work for me?
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=45454
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=45454
yea, just verify them "y" marks are lined up
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Hello John... Your pic with the red marks on the gears look great but. I don't feel comfortable telling you to just reinstall the gear, cover and pump the same way you removed them.... I understand you have not rotated the engine yet too. About you posting about lining up the dot and the Y gear timing marks... You will not be able to see the dot on the cam to crank gear with the front cover in place. You will only be able to see the injection pump gear and cam gear Y timing marks the way your engine is now. The rolled shim stock is perfect for what you need as a mirror. In my pics you can see how far doen in the front cover you need to look. Using a flashlite and bending the shim stock so it shines on the very edge of the gear is what you need to do. You can even use a dental pick that pre bent and "feel" the cam gear for the Y mark. Also making the line across the injection pump gear will tell you if the gear goes in level when you set it into the front of the engine. Remember to turn the crank so that the vibration dampner timing mark is at TDC on the timing tab short line. Clean off the timing tab and you can see and feel this line.... I use a 15/16 socket and breaker bar to turn the crank. Only turn the crank clockwise so the bolt does not unscrew. If you need to back the crank up any please don't try to back is up more than about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. The crank will be easy to turn when you reach top dead center of the stroke because the piston is not really moving much as compared to the crank. The piston actually stops moving up or down at TDC for a couple of degrees...
johneich
John, 1983 F250
Hi Gary, I got most of it, will do as you say, I am not clear on one thing, could you (or anybody else) show me a pic, drawing or expand on "Remember to turn the crank so that the vibration dampner timing mark is at TDC on the timing tab short line. Clean off the timing tab and you can see and feel this line...."
John
John
johneich
John, 1983 F250
Gary, what pis are these? "In my pics you can see how far....."
towcat
Full Access Member
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The picture Towcat has just posted is a great example of what ans where the timing marks are on both gears. It also shows just about how deep you need to go to "se" these Y marks. Turning the crank in the clockwise direction will maintain the tightness of the vibration bolt that uses the 15/16 inch socket and breaker bar.
johneich
John, 1983 F250
OK, the part I still don't have is: Do i turn the crank then look in the mirror? turn crank mirror, turn crank look in mirror? till I finally see the Y show up, or is there a mark elsewhere (down below?) that will tell me when the Y is about right?
johneich
John, 1983 F250
towcat
Full Access Member
sorry I wasn't able to get back to you sooner, It has been one nasty day for me.
if you line up the groove on the harmonic balancer to the "0" on the timing tab, you will see either the "." or the "y". the dot will be BDC and the "Y" will be TDC(what you want). line up the gear and you're in.
johneich
John, 1983 F250
I got half of that TowCat, "O" on the timing tab is what? those bumps to the left of the groove?, and I need to clean them up?
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