So my DNE2 had started to not want to shift correctly. It shifted fine when cold, but once it got hot is would shift into LOW, but did not want to shift back into HIGH until it cooled down. I figured it was probably the shift motor getting week or a failing switch. I had already purchased a replacement motor and switch for it over the winter. I was just waiting until the weather warmed up to replace them. I figured today was as good a day as any.
My first plan was to just pull the unit and put i ton my work bench. However, the RTV I had used for a gasket would not let go. I tried a number of different methods and it refused to budge. So on to the next plan, replace the parts with the DNE2 installed. While this isn't overly difficult it is more of a pain than on the work bench.
The curious part is that when I removed the motor and switch it was not set up like all the others I had read about. There was no switch on the inside of the cover as shown in the pic
All my research had shown one of these on the inside of the terminal plate.
Then when I pulled the motor it had a type of circuit board with some relay on it. See the pic. The old motor is on the right and the new one is on the left.
I am assuming that the relays on the motor performed the job that the terminal switch I had seen did. It limited the amount of time that the motor would be energized in-case the other electronics failed and supplied a constant current.
I replaced the old motor with the new one. I decided to go ahead and put the switch in as well. The motor functioned correctly, but the switch did not.
The tab on the screw gear did not engage the switch correctly and allow it to open the circuit from one post and close the circuit for the other. Instead it appeared to complete both circuits and blow the 15 amp fuse in the DNE2 power supply. I removed the switch and wired it with the original posts/terminals. Since the DNE2 shift switch in the cab only energized the circuit when pressed and the control box switched leads every time it is pushed the DNE2 shift correctly without the new switch. The only danger is if the control box goes out and does not cut power to the shift motor after the button in the cab is released. In this case it would either fry the motor or blow the fuse. I have plans to eventually make my own simplified harness that should reduce any electrical gremlins. So far so good. The DNE2 unit is shifting quickly and consistently. Just though you guys might find this interesting.
My first plan was to just pull the unit and put i ton my work bench. However, the RTV I had used for a gasket would not let go. I tried a number of different methods and it refused to budge. So on to the next plan, replace the parts with the DNE2 installed. While this isn't overly difficult it is more of a pain than on the work bench.
The curious part is that when I removed the motor and switch it was not set up like all the others I had read about. There was no switch on the inside of the cover as shown in the pic
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All my research had shown one of these on the inside of the terminal plate.
You must be registered for see images
Then when I pulled the motor it had a type of circuit board with some relay on it. See the pic. The old motor is on the right and the new one is on the left.
You must be registered for see images
I am assuming that the relays on the motor performed the job that the terminal switch I had seen did. It limited the amount of time that the motor would be energized in-case the other electronics failed and supplied a constant current.
I replaced the old motor with the new one. I decided to go ahead and put the switch in as well. The motor functioned correctly, but the switch did not.
The tab on the screw gear did not engage the switch correctly and allow it to open the circuit from one post and close the circuit for the other. Instead it appeared to complete both circuits and blow the 15 amp fuse in the DNE2 power supply. I removed the switch and wired it with the original posts/terminals. Since the DNE2 shift switch in the cab only energized the circuit when pressed and the control box switched leads every time it is pushed the DNE2 shift correctly without the new switch. The only danger is if the control box goes out and does not cut power to the shift motor after the button in the cab is released. In this case it would either fry the motor or blow the fuse. I have plans to eventually make my own simplified harness that should reduce any electrical gremlins. So far so good. The DNE2 unit is shifting quickly and consistently. Just though you guys might find this interesting.
