Delta 88 Oldsmobile help/advice

[DEEDELTA]

I have a 1978 delta 88 Oldsmobile 350 5.7 diesel. It was running when I purchased it. I let it sit for a while 5+ years stuff happened. Life back on track decided to get it back on the road. Vehicle is not getting fuel to injector lines. Cracked some lines and I can see fuel getting to the IP inlet but nothing out. Checked and replace FSS. This area fills with fuel and exits to the fuel return outlet to the tank. But still nothing out of the IP to lines. If I have to remove it to rebuild or replace how would I go about that? Does the water pump need to be removed to get to the back bolts or am I able to remove just the 3 bolts from the top?

 

[bob_442]

Try temporarily removing the return line fuel fitting on the front of the IP, which will allow return fuel to dribble down (expect it to land in the valley, and eventually on the ground/floor). Now see if you are getting fuel to the injectors. If so, a rubber piece has disintegrated inside the pump, and the pieces have plugged the restriction in the return line fitting. The pump will need servicing. The materials originally used in the pump were poorly chosen -- it is a well known mode of failure for that pump. It left me stranded on the side of the freeway once. I followed someones advice from long ago and now I have a drilled-out return line fitting in the glovebox for roadside limp-home repairs.

I couldn't tell for sure from your post whether you *actually observed* fuel exiting the return fitting while cranking. If so, never mind, the failure mode I am describing is not what you are experiencing. It's pretty clear though that if the pump is filling with fuel, and if the IP is being turned by the cranking engine, and if fuel isn't making it down to the injectors, the problem *is* in the IP.

It was way back in 2013 when I replaced my pump. I don't remember having to remove the water pump, but it has been 11 years. Sometime I have CRS. I think you just have to remove the intake. Getting to the three IP bolts is a challenge. I (barely) managed it with a smörgåsbord of tools. I recall having to turn at least one of the bolts a scant few degrees before having to reposition the wrench and/or switch tools, rinse and repeat. Custom tools have been made and/or sold for this purpose.

Bob

 

[DEEDELTA]

Try temporarily removing the return line fuel fitting on the front of the IP, which will allow return fuel to dribble down (expect it to land in the valley, and eventually on the ground/floor). Now see if you are getting fuel to the injectors. If so, a rubber piece has disintegrated inside the pump, and the pieces have plugged the restriction in the return line fitting. The pump will need servicing. The materials originally used in the pump were poorly chosen -- it is a well known mode of failure for that pump. It left me stranded on the side of the freeway once. I followed someones advice from long ago and now I have a drilled-out return line fitting in the glovebox for roadside limp-home repairs.

I couldn't tell for sure from your post whether you *actually observed* fuel exiting the return fitting while cranking. If so, never mind, the failure mode I am describing is not what you are experiencing. It's pretty clear though that if the pump is filling with fuel, and if the IP is being turned by the cranking engine, and if fuel isn't making it down to the injectors, the problem *is* in the IP.

It was way back in 2013 when I replaced my pump. I don't remember having to remove the water pump, but it has been 11 years. Sometime I have CRS. I think you just have to remove the intake. Getting to the three IP bolts is a challenge. I (barely) managed it with a smörgåsbord of tools. I recall having to turn at least one of the bolts a scant few degrees before having to reposition the wrench and/or switch tools, rinse and repeat. Custom tools have been made and/or sold for this purpose.

Bob

Thank you so much Bob. I'm new to the diesel game. I have fuel coming out of return line going back to tank while cranking. Yes I do believe the IP is in fact the problem but wasn't sure if the 3 bolts are mounted in place and would not fall into timing chain area causing me to have to do extra work. The goal now is to remove pump (that's going to be fun smh) to get to the part number then rebuild/replace at 500-800$ before Michigan weather comes. Again thanks Bob.