Db2-5069 proper tuning

Dane Rickford

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Good morning guys, as the title of this thread states, I’m looking for some advice from the experienced and experts on which adjustments to make to my pump and how much to adjust for increased power and efficiency for my stock turbo. Currently all I have done is adjusted the turbo wastegate to allow 10 psi max and I tightened down the “minimax” screw, which seemed to produce more low end torque ( I can currently start out in 3rd gear from a stop with ease) What would you guys suggest? Thank you
 

Dane Rickford

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Thanks, I read that thread and it’s why I messed with the minimax adjustment. I am looking for, if possible, number of flats to turn the fuel up and specifics like that. I’m not sure if that is something that has a simple answer or if I just need to play with it and find the sweet spot
 

gandalf

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Remember to set that 1150 limit when the engine is working hard. You have a couple hills in the area. Set the fuel for climbing those hills, driving it like you stole it. That is to say, set it for your worst conditions, not your average conditions. Once that is done learn to drive with one eye on the road and the other on the pyro.
 

Dane Rickford

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I’ll definitely keep that in mind. When I was hauling up grades before my new down pipe the egts accidentally hit 1230, and now with the 3 inch dp I can’t get it above 1050. I believe I need to get my pump timed proper before I mess with the fuel too much though. It’s just timed off my buttdyno right now. With all of California shut down, I’m going to have to wait a while till I can get it timed or wait for work to pick up so I can get the equipment. The truck have tons of power, I’m just looking to increase the mileage if possible
 

IDIBRONCO

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( I can currently start out in 3rd gear from a stop with ease) What would you guys suggest? Thank you
First, I'd recommend NOT starting out in third gear from a stop.
number of flats to turn the fuel up and specifics like that. I’m not sure if that is something that has a simple answer or if I just need to play with it and find the sweet spot
Remember that no matter what the parts are, each engine is different. What works for yours may not be any good for someone else's. I'm not trying to be a jerk by saying that, it's just the plain truth.
 

Dane Rickford

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First, I'd recommend NOT starting out in third gear from a stop.
I found that out quite by accident actually LOL I thought I had put it in first and but missed the shift and put it in 3rd, and well, it pulled right out no problem LOL
Remember that no matter what the parts are, each engine is different. What works for yours may not be any good for someone else's. I'm not trying to be a jerk by saying that, it's just the plain truth.
Yeah, having gone through three engines, I know that they are each unique, that’s why I was wondering if it was even possible there was a simple answer. I’ve only put around 550 miles on my new rebuild, so I probably should just put some miles on it before I do any tuning to be honest :joker:
 

rhkcommander

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You CAN turn the fuel screw too far. I like 1050 as my max, I dont trust it to be 100% accurate and don't need to do some engine work.

It'll dribble a cup or two of diesel out, put some rags under and a vessel to capture what you can if you give a crap.

If you can see the gear end of the pump it's real easy to see if the pump is oriented correctly. I think it can still be 50/50 if I recall correctly, but using that method I was able to hit it 3/3.
 

Dane Rickford

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Thanks for the tip @rhkcommander :)
Here is another question I have. Since I’m already at 1050 with the stock fuel pressure, when I turn the fuel up, should I bump the timing up as well to keep the egts down?

I need to get it timed with a meter, but right now that’s not an option.
 

Dane Rickford

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Thanks for the tip @rhkcommander :)
Here is another question I have. Since I’m already at 1050 with the stock fuel pressure, when I turn the fuel up, should I bump the timing up as well to keep the egts down?

I need to get it timed with a meter, but right now that’s not an option. In Wes’s Project Big Blue thread, he said that with his higher output Ip he had it advanced around 14* to handle the extra fuel, so I’m just wondering if that applies to this situation, just on a smaller scale
 

rhkcommander

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Timing can help, an intercooler will help too. You already cleaned up the exhaust, but you might be able to improve on the intake side. Any restrictions are your enemies.

My truck had the real crappy banks box that didnt seal good, used crappy filters, etc. I finally found an ATS intake snail, found the orings for it and welded up an aluminum pipe into a 90 to make it work with my banks. I welded up a couple arms to a 4 inch exhaust pipe and mounted a cone filter and 90 degree reducing silicone boot to the turbo, then I eventually upgrading to a big filter and prefilter bag. I ditched the air dam thing that goes by the radiator to get fresher air, its pulling some heat but the less restrictive intake added power and lowered EGT very much, if i ever feel like it i may extend the intake to in front of the radiator, but an intercooler would be better in my opinion. Now the Turbo spools faster as a result. Plus I can work on the damn engine now without pulling that crap off. I also ceramic coated the exhaust all the way to the down pipe, turbo hot side, the wye thing, and the exhaust manifolds so under hood temperature was dramatically reduced, keeping that heat in will drive the turbo harder, meaning more responsive and efficient. Used to start steaming and melting snow after warming up, now I can keep a sheet of snow on the hood all day. I didn't do a before and after, but I have bumped the exhaust before and after and it went from bad burn territory to being able to touch it for a few seconds right after shutting it down. It'll flake off eventually I'm sure, but it's less damaging to the pipes than wrapping it in my opinion.

You can use methanol and/or water injection in the intake for added power AND cooling, but then you are reliant on that and if your dancing on 1150 on a grade with them and run dry.... no good. Someone hydrolocked their IDI before running wayyyy too much, but it cleans up soot too. The limiting factor with these engines has always primarily been fuel, so adding fuel to the air is one way to get more power. Propane used to be more popular but doesn't provide the cooling really. NOS isn't a fuel, it's an oxidizer, but if you're rolling coal it'll still help.... the other main weak point is the heads lifting above 10psi, unless you stud them down hard.

These old engines are using an N/A camshaft, I don't know how much valve overlap we get or anything, but there are a few different cams in the world now that usually add power. Obviously swapping cams is harder than turning a screw or pump!

Ambient air temperature will have an effect on pyro, not huge but it is noticable especially in areas with hot summer's and cold winters. If you're at 1150 in the winter, might not want to dial it up.
 
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