Dana 50 wheel bearing replacement, how in-depth should I get

[HS108]

What started off as a simple brake job has turned into a full blown rebuild. I wanted to "just" replace the Pads, rotors, hoses, and calipers on my TTB dana 50, but it has turned into a whole production... Now im replacing the bearings and seals and repacking it all with fresh Red N Tacky (I finally decided to use that grease after spending way too much time and effort into which grease is the best.. Like the IDI actually cares lol)

After going to multiple parts stores to get bearings "National brand" (store only seems to carry enough bearings and races for one side)

long story short, how far should I dig into this? Is it worth it to pull the spindle and check the roller bearings? If I do pull the spindle will I need to replace that seal as well? Its just how far down this worm hole to I go? I already spent 3 hours looking at which grease is the "best" lol

Im leaning towards doing it so I can sand and paint the dust guards and make everything nice nice while im in there.

I miss younger me, when I had a smaller budget and less time, so I just did what I could to get by as far as repairs, life was surprisingly simpler lol

Edit: wow been part of the OB world for over 11 years now, glad to still be here alive and kicking!

 

[WrenchWhore]

It's not that big a deal to pull the spindle and check the spindle bearings. Theres seal kits available online from Spicer. As long as they still have grease and spin good I wouldn't get crazy. If you plan on using 4x4 at a higher rate of speed like snow driving its probably good you're taking a look. The bigger rubber seal can get old and crack which ends up throwing grease when it warms up.

 

[Nero]

If its the same truck in your Sig, I'd be more worried about checking the ball joints. You have to take the hubs off and knuckle assy to change them out. If they're fine, then just do the wheel bearings and send er, I wouldn't shake a stick at the needle bearings. Just shoot some fresh grease in there and call it a day.

 

[HS108]

If its the same truck in your Sig, I'd be more worried about checking the ball joints. You have to take the hubs off and knuckle assy to change them out. If they're fine, then just do the wheel bearings and send er, I wouldn't shake a stick at the needle bearings. Just shoot some fresh grease in there and call it a day.

you sir, are not helping lol

 

[Nero]

you sir, are not helping lol

Lol what making the job bigger than it is? I'm just taking a realistic look into it, since you're halfway there...

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

I would check the needle bearings. Mine were toasted, and I had to replace the stub axle as well as a result.

 

[HS108]

Update: Needle bearings and ball joints ordered, also going to be inspecting and probably replacing the pivot bushing as well

I need to send out my PSOM to be rebuilt anyways, so truck is down for awhile

 

[mblaney]

Might want to change the u-joints while you are in there (more bad news?). While you are at it, put in new bushings in the leaf springs and the D50 pivot. When I did mine I just installed a D60!

That escalated quickly :***:

 

[HS108]

Im gonna check the u joints, I dont use 4wd much, and if I put on 1.5-2k miles a year thats a lot.

If I was gonna swap axles, I put in a new 08+ super duty coil spring ones

I have to draw the line somewhere. Ill wait on the leaf springs, those can be done without undoing what I already have done, the U joints if they look firm, im not gonna replace em with some china junk ones they probable sell now for no reason.

I just dropped 200 bucks on Rockauto getting all the correct Timkin wheel bearings and seals, so im invested in the D50 now.

Also on a side note, Ive become obsessed with grease. Did you know there are many different kinds and ones rated for different applications, its crazy. A week ago, I thought grease was just grease, any old kind will do, but ive gone down the rabbit hole lol All it took was one google search of best wheel bearing grease, and it was over lol

Like the senior man on my job said, back in the day you just got what they had at the store and you liked it, and it worked lol

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

I personally prefer the green flavored grease but I’ll take the red flavor if the green flavor isn’t in stock

 

[WrenchWhore]

If you're going to do the axle shaft U-joints I highly recommend the Spicer ones (5-1350X). Pretty sure they're the same as the Kingpin 60. They're cold forged, triple sealed, and none greasable. None greasable makes them extra beefy by not having a hole drilled in the U-joint body. Triple seal keeps them alive for year after year.

As far as grease goes I prefer the synthetic waterproof Green grease but have had decent luck with high temp Red.

 

[MtnHaul]

I just dropped 200 bucks on Rockauto getting all the correct Timkin wheel bearings and seals, so im invested in the D50 now.

D50 hubs will transfer to a D60 axle. I bought a dually D60 axle but kept the hubs from my D50 and 80k later no problems.

 

[Nero]

Only real difference between the d50 and 60 is TTB obviously, and the spindles are a little different on the knuckle end. Little thicker. Between driving both a D50 and 60, the 50 rides a heck a lot smoother in my opinion.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Only real difference between the d50 and 60 is TTB obviously, and the spindles are a little different on the knuckle end. Little thicker. Between driving both a D50 and 60, the 50 rides a heck a lot smoother in my opinion.

I thought the ujoints were a smaller size on the D60, that's what gives it the amazing turning radius it has over the D50? Though it always seemed silly to have bigger ujoints on a weaker axle to me... Another downside to D50 is that there is almost no travel even on a healthy spring setup. It's like 2" to the bumpers with good camber. That said, I like my D50 just fine, I just hate the turning radius.

 

[Nero]

There could be more, although thats the only bit I remember.