justinray
Contributor
I spent 8 hrs yesterday trying to get ball joints off my front end... With no luck, is there a secret?
):
):
Dana 50 Balljoints
- Thread starter justinray
- Start date
justinray
Contributor
Balljoint press wont fit because of the U-Joints, i tried using a jack and socket to place the weight of the truck against the ball joint with no luck, tried beating it off, tried heat, no luck at all.
chevytaHOE5674
Full Access Member
Take the axle shaft out and then the U-joint won't be in the way.
justinray
Contributor
Hub Removal Help? And Axle Shaft Removal Help?
I wish I would have asked on here before beginning, would have stopped a LOT of stress and hammering.
I wish I would have asked on here before beginning, would have stopped a LOT of stress and hammering.
justinray
Contributor
Sorry, this is my first 4wd, and have always done my own wrenching.
justinray
Contributor
Okay, thank you!
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
Oh boy....I'll do my best to not miss anything.
jack the truck up, axle stands holding it. Remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper and make sure to hang it by wire from the frame. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE HOSE!!! (tap the pins out that hold the caliper on, and don't destroy the ends by hammerin on them).
Now, remove the locking hub (6 allen bolts). The locking hub end cap will now come out...wiggle it if needed.
Remove the big metal sprial lock (it's into a groove on the hub, it holds the "fuse" into the hub). Now, remove the screw that is holding the "fuse" in. It will now fall right out with a spring behind it. Finally, pull the snap ring off the axle shafts (not sure if there is ont or not, might be, might not be) and you can thread two of the allen head bolts into the hub and pull it.
Now, you will need a specific socket to pull the wheel bearings. Remove the outer nut, then the locking ring, then use teh socket again to pull the inner nut off. Inspect them carefully for ANY signs of wear. Any blueish tinges, pits or de chroming, replace them.
Now, pull hard outwards by using the brake rotor as a handle...the hub will come off. Try not to drop your outer bearing in the dirt.
You will find 5 or 6 nuts holding the spindle on. Remove those nuts, and go find a piece of hardwood.....you are going to need it.
Put the two spindle nuts on to cover the threads at the end of the spindle from accidental impact. Place the hardwood over the spindle and hit the piece of wood HARD up, down, side to side....it will make the spindle come loose. Keep this action up until the spindle comes out. It might seem hopeless, but it WILL move!!
With the spindle out of the way, you can pull the axle shafts. I can not remember if the passenger side shaft somes out of the pumpkin, or separates at the middle joint via a slip joint, but I do know you can get both shafts out of the way without removing the pumpkin.
Assembly is just teh reverse, but use LOTS of antiseize on the spindle to knuckle seam, as well on the ball joints when they go in the knuckle. This will prevent bleeding knuckles next time. Trust me, I know!
Be VERY careful installing the ale shaft into the pumplin....or you will be cursing fords for a LONG time after you fix the seal.
If you have any problems, we're all watching and can answer. Just post, or PM someone should the ***** matter hit the air recircilation device.
jack the truck up, axle stands holding it. Remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper and make sure to hang it by wire from the frame. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE HOSE!!! (tap the pins out that hold the caliper on, and don't destroy the ends by hammerin on them).
Now, remove the locking hub (6 allen bolts). The locking hub end cap will now come out...wiggle it if needed.
Remove the big metal sprial lock (it's into a groove on the hub, it holds the "fuse" into the hub). Now, remove the screw that is holding the "fuse" in. It will now fall right out with a spring behind it. Finally, pull the snap ring off the axle shafts (not sure if there is ont or not, might be, might not be) and you can thread two of the allen head bolts into the hub and pull it.
Now, you will need a specific socket to pull the wheel bearings. Remove the outer nut, then the locking ring, then use teh socket again to pull the inner nut off. Inspect them carefully for ANY signs of wear. Any blueish tinges, pits or de chroming, replace them.
Now, pull hard outwards by using the brake rotor as a handle...the hub will come off. Try not to drop your outer bearing in the dirt.
You will find 5 or 6 nuts holding the spindle on. Remove those nuts, and go find a piece of hardwood.....you are going to need it.
Put the two spindle nuts on to cover the threads at the end of the spindle from accidental impact. Place the hardwood over the spindle and hit the piece of wood HARD up, down, side to side....it will make the spindle come loose. Keep this action up until the spindle comes out. It might seem hopeless, but it WILL move!!
With the spindle out of the way, you can pull the axle shafts. I can not remember if the passenger side shaft somes out of the pumpkin, or separates at the middle joint via a slip joint, but I do know you can get both shafts out of the way without removing the pumpkin.
Assembly is just teh reverse, but use LOTS of antiseize on the spindle to knuckle seam, as well on the ball joints when they go in the knuckle. This will prevent bleeding knuckles next time. Trust me, I know!
Be VERY careful installing the ale shaft into the pumplin....or you will be cursing fords for a LONG time after you fix the seal.
If you have any problems, we're all watching and can answer. Just post, or PM someone should the ***** matter hit the air recircilation device.
lowpass7.3
Registered User
When replaced my ball joints last fall, the 2 parts that were the hardest to remove were the spindles from the knuckles, then the lower balljoint tapered stud form the axle housing.
The trick that worked for my spindles was to get to the spindle. Loosen the nuts the spindle with the axle on a jack stand, then put the hub retaining nuts on the spindle thread and a piece of hardwood under the spindle and on top of your floor jack. Lift with the floor jack to put some stress on the tight fitting joint, then start waling on the spindle flange with a big brass drift or an air chisel, and maybe some heat. It popped pretty quickly that way for me. This trick works for freeing drums if you don't have a drum puller as well. You don't want to hold the truck up with the jack, just lift it enough to carry some of the weight.
I found no trick with freeing the lower ball joint tapered stud easily. i just put a big prybar pulling down on the knuckle, then hit the side of the axle housing near the tapered fit over and over. I ended up using a mapp torch on one side, and needed to use the acetylene heating tip to get the other side to let go. i was hammering for 20 minutes on each side.
the ball joints came out of the knuckle with a ball joint press i rented from autozone. All of the retaining rings cracked. I used retaining ring pliers to get one end started, then walked small flat screwdrivers behind the ring until i got half way. i used a few big sockets and pieces of tubing i had laying around to get the spacing just right for certain joints. its a little bit of a puzzle, but it wasn't bad. Again, putting pressure on the joint you want to loosen with the press, then tappign hard ont he side of the knuckle helps break it loose.
Good luck,
Mike
The trick that worked for my spindles was to get to the spindle. Loosen the nuts the spindle with the axle on a jack stand, then put the hub retaining nuts on the spindle thread and a piece of hardwood under the spindle and on top of your floor jack. Lift with the floor jack to put some stress on the tight fitting joint, then start waling on the spindle flange with a big brass drift or an air chisel, and maybe some heat. It popped pretty quickly that way for me. This trick works for freeing drums if you don't have a drum puller as well. You don't want to hold the truck up with the jack, just lift it enough to carry some of the weight.
I found no trick with freeing the lower ball joint tapered stud easily. i just put a big prybar pulling down on the knuckle, then hit the side of the axle housing near the tapered fit over and over. I ended up using a mapp torch on one side, and needed to use the acetylene heating tip to get the other side to let go. i was hammering for 20 minutes on each side.
the ball joints came out of the knuckle with a ball joint press i rented from autozone. All of the retaining rings cracked. I used retaining ring pliers to get one end started, then walked small flat screwdrivers behind the ring until i got half way. i used a few big sockets and pieces of tubing i had laying around to get the spacing just right for certain joints. its a little bit of a puzzle, but it wasn't bad. Again, putting pressure on the joint you want to loosen with the press, then tappign hard ont he side of the knuckle helps break it loose.
Good luck,
Mike
Kevin 007
Full-floater
And to get the knuckle out of the axles assembly, you can hit both sides of the axle assembly with sledges, on either side of the ball joints at the same time. This will "shock" everything and help free it up. Im about to do ball joints on my 84...NOT looking forward to it.
I've had good luck getting spindles out with a cold chisle and a big hammer. Put the chisle right where the "seam" is between the knuckle and the spindle. If you look around it's circumfrence you may find a little spot that seems like an ideal starting point. Hit that seam with generous amounts of PB Blaster the day before if you have the time to spare.
chevytaHOE5674
Full Access Member
If you have a slide hammer then a spindle puller is a great investment. Get stubborn/stuck/rusted spindles off in no time flat.
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
I bought one on sale for $80, and I had the spindle adapter from when I did wheel bearings last year. It REALLY works!
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