Coolant flush to do list

[Deezelcaddy]

I got my lab results from Blackstone and the motor seems to be in great shape. Next on the list is a coolant flush to guarantee my sca levels are where they should be and stop/avoid any cavitation issues. I am going to use the Napa fleet charge or guard or whatever they call it. I call it the purple stuff. I already have an aftermarket Aluminum rad. I was going to do some routine items while the truck is drained,I am adding the Napa filter head (4019)and filter. I am replacing the petcocks with drains. I am replacing the stat with the Motorcraft one listed in the bin. I was also going to re-seal the oil cooler with the reinz gaskets listed in the bin. A few questions for those who know:
1 how much coolant do these trucks hold?
2 Should I do rad hoses while Im at it?
3 Any other items I should add to the list?
4 Do I use the 4070 non sca charged filter since my coolant is pre-charged or do i use a different one? My understanding is that they drop off sca as needed in the system so overcharging isn't an issue? (I'm not sure about this).
Thanx in advance for advice, suggestions.

 

[cpdenton]

1. I used a little over 7 gallons. 3.5 gallons of fleetcharge. 3.5 gallons of distilled water.
Make sure you have 8 total on hand.


2. For about 25 bucks...I know I would.

3. Great time to replace all the heater hoses while you are installing that filter.

4. Get the straight filter only (non charged) since you are dealing with brand new coolant.

 

[BDCarrillo]

While you're working on the coolant system it may be prudent to do a thorough eval of the water pump. It's easy to replace if needed.

Check the shaft for play and look for any white deposits from coolant that may have wept out and dried.

Use a flush chemical to help clean out the system. Motorcraft VC9 is used to neutralize scale/rust deposits, but a good cleaner from a parts store would work too.

 

[madpogue]

All hoses. Thermostat and gasket. Radiator cap. I got almost 8 gallons in mine. 4 gallons of Fleet Charge (conventional anti-freeze with SCA added), about 3.5 gallons of DISTILLED water.

Something I just found out the hard way - TEST your cold idle / advance coolant switch. NOW would be the time to replace it, with the thermostat housing out of the way. Otherwise, you'll never get a socket on the switch to remove it. 'Course, this was with my '85 6.9; I don't know if that design changed with the 7.3.

 

[fx4wannabe]

All hoses. Thermostat and gasket. Radiator cap. I got almost 8 gallons in mine. 4 gallons of Fleet Charge (conventional anti-freeze with SCA added), about 3.5 gallons of DISTILLED water.

Something I just found out the hard way - TEST your cold idle / advance coolant switch. NOW would be the time to replace it, with the thermostat housing out of the way. Otherwise, you'll never get a socket on the switch to remove it. 'Course, this was with my '85 6.9; I don't know if that design changed with the 7.3.

Is this switch what makes the truck go into high idle when you tap the pedal when it's cold? Mine had quit working and I wasn't sure why. I assume this switch sends a signal to the solonoid on the IP.

 

[madpogue]

Is this switch what makes the truck go into high idle when you tap the pedal when it's cold? Mine had quit working and I wasn't sure why. I assume this switch sends a signal to the solonoid on the IP.

Yup, that's the one. Simple test - disconnect it, and put a jumper wire between the two terminals on the connector. Turn the key to RUN. If the solenoid kicks, then the solenoid and associated wiring are good, and the switch is the main suspect. Keep in mind, though, that the switch doesn't close until the temp goes below 62F (so says the EVTM, anyway).

 

[riotwarrior]

First, my experience with a flush became quite a scenario in PARTS replacement soon afterwards.

I flushed cause the coolant looked similar to chocolate milk when the truck was purchased.

Starting by draining all coolant and the block as well, installed petcocks, I filled with water, and flush kit...ran it and drained it, then filled with water ran drained and so on several times.

This then was followed with some CLR same routine, fill with water, run flush, water fill run flush...then finally some calgone dish detergent...again...fill run flush many many times.

Finally added distilled water and coolant...

SUBSEQUENT ISSUE ARRISED!!!!

First, it was so freaking clean that all deposits came out of every nook and cranny in water pump and it began to leak profusely.

Replaced water pump, documented that, filled flushed again..with water serveral times, then added coolant. Guess what this time the rad effed up...so drained all the coolant again dispossed of it. and replaced rad/thermostat and hoses.

Now I have a clean system. Filled and flushed again with plain water, then kept doing that and finally added distilled water/coolant....

Blew up engine but that's NOT from cooling issues....but lost all the coolant

So be wery wery carefull of fwushing coowant....we be hunting wabbits and they pop their ugly head up in the most worst of places.


But for a list..

4 gallons coolant, 4 gallons min of distilled water
2 petcocks for block
new upper and lower rad hoses
new heater hoses
new thermostat..FROM FORD or IHI only no aftermarket ones.

Good luck what ever you do....

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Thank you all for the advice. As to riot warrior's post, I am seriously considering replacing the water pump at this same time. The ford part is like $90 online. I hate the thought of replacing a good water pump ( I am from the "Fix the needy, F#%$ the greedy" school),but I don't want to waste $60 in coolant either. truck has 237k on the clock and I have no idea if the water pump is original or not. Any advice? Is there any way to gauge the condition of a non-leaking water pump? I seem to be slowly losing coolant but the lab tests showed 0 water or coolant in the oil after 5k miles. Also, is there a brand of coolant flush I should get? I have never used one so any suggestions welcome. Thanx in advance for the help.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Any parts store flush chemical will help. Motorcraft VC9 is recommended for most powestrokes, which are essentially the same block casting material. VC9 is supposed to help neutralize scale.

Water pump bearing runout can be checked but I don't know the tolerances off hand. The fan assembly hanging off the water pump snout puts a lot of odd thrust/radial pressure on the pump bearing.

 

[whiteboyslo]

My experience more or less mimicked riotwarrior's, though over a longer span of time and without the engine blowing up. I flushed the system using distilled water and just a bit of mild cleaner (Simple Green, I think). I replaced all the hoses at that time and used Fleetcharge coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Since then, I've replaced the radiator, the thermostat, and the water pump over the span of a couple years. Now, whether the flush CAUSED the issues or simply exposed the vulnerabilities of the system is a bit of a 'glass half empty or full' kinda thing, but I don't regret doing the work. I just kinda wish I had changed more things at once since I HATE dealing with coolant!

FWIW, the Motorcraft water pump PN is PW-454. I just bought one a few months ago on Amazon Prime for $55, but now the prime price is $110! Looks like it goes for about $85 from other vendors. Amazon's site shows it as not compatible to my truck, which just goes to show how useless their compatibility tool is.

Mike