coolant/antifreeze

[Exekiel69]

When I do the EGR delete on My 05 PSD I will have to drain all the old fluid in the cooling system and will need new fluid to refill it, where can I get the right stuff?

I use Fleetrite, white jug with black label low silicate on all My other diesel trucks, is this safe and good to use on My 05 PSD as well? I'd like to have the same stuff in all of them if possible. I already have a coolant filter on this truck to keep stuff from building up inside the cooling system.

Thanks.

 

[Worstenemy453]

Fleetrite ELC or Cat ELC.

Just make sure it is ELC and you'll be fine. Make sure you take the time to completely get all the old stuff out, do a lot of flushes.

 

[2 stroker]

Gauges are needed when doing flushes
If you decide to switch to an ELC style coolant, first of all, not just ANY ELC will do. It must have the CAT EC-1 rating.
There is a Shell Rotella ELC that meets that rating that is supposed to be "the best," but any CAT EC-1 rated ELC will work. International Truck dealerships carry the Fleetrite ELC which is CAT EC-1 rated and what they installed in the VT365 (International variant of this engine) from the factory. NAPA also sells a ZEREX ELC that meets the CAT EC-1 rating.
A few things to keep in mind:
One is that you need to purchase the CONCENTRATED form of the ELC, since the cooling system retains approx 50% of the total capacity when drained during your flushes. If you were to buy the premixed, you will never get to a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.
Then next thing to be aware of is that you can not just drain out the Ford gold, flush only with distilled water and think everything will be ok. You are changing the coolant type, not just the coolant. To change coolant type REQUIRES that you flush using two chemicals. The restore and restore+ flushes serve two different purposes.
The restore chemical flush removes a film that the Ford Gold coolant deposits on the walls of the cooling system to help combat cavitation.
The second chemical, restore+ (same as the ford VC-9, only less expensive) is to remove rust scale build up in the cooling system. If the dealership used tap water (and I will bet you they did) you will have rust scale.
Should you skip the restore step, you could have a chemical reaction between the film left by the Ford Gold and the ELC style coolant. If you were to skip the restore+ step, you would be leaving the junk that clogs the oil cooler sitting there as a ticking time bomb.
Here is the flush i did took me 12.5hrs 48 gallons of distilled water and q 1/4 tank of fuel


This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat. Gauges are a must to do this need to know EOT-ECT
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ced-oil-cooler-still-difference-temps-21.html

Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker

 

[Exekiel69]

Thanks a lot, this is a detailed walk through. I will provably get the zerex elc EC-1 from napa since it could come handy in case of any problems. Any chance they have a product comparable to the restore I can use to flush th system? I know I'll provably need about 40 gallons of distilled water.

Btw, should I use a cavitation additive with this new antifreeze?
I tried the links but they don't work for Me.

Thanks.

 

[Worstenemy453]

Wow, our flushes usuallt take about an hour and use maybe 15 gallons of water, never had a problem or any dirty water coming out after that. And why are gauges needed ? I have yet to see an ELC that doesnt meet the standards but all we use is Fleetrite.

 

[2 stroker]

Wow, our flushes usuallt take about an hour and use maybe 15 gallons of water, never had a problem or any dirty water coming out after that. And why are gauges needed ? I have yet to see an ELC that doesnt meet the standards but all we use is Fleetrite.

When i do a coolant flush gauge are needed because i pull the t/stat to get a good flow of water by the water pump for 2 quick flushes to get the Gold junk out then when i add the Restore you place cardboard in front of the Rad and the ECT temp MUST reach 185-190* before the Restore or Restore+ starts to work plus this should be add to the drivers side drain block http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=F-108N&Search.x=20&Search.y=17
drive about 1 hour then just before you get back pull the cardboard then the temp will drop to around 120* flush 5 times with distilled water till clean add Restore+ do the same flush 6 time with distilled water or untill clean and you should use test strips to check ph level of water needs to be a 7.0 then dump 3 1/2 gallon ELC CAT EC-1 Rated coolant down the t/stat hole when full replace with a new t/stat 3C3Z-8575-AA Thermostat with housing with o-ring with hose finish filling through degasing tank to the add mark the new cold full mark that way no air in the block. Good to go.
When useing the Restore+ there is always the chance of plugging the oil cooler from the miner build up so be ready for that if it happens.
2 stroker

 

[DragOne]

there is always the chance of plugging the oil cooler from the miner build up so be ready for that if it happens.

hmm, good call. Thanks for the reminder