Converting mechanical fuel pump to electric

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Kevin 007

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Al, I installed that identical "Micro" pump on an 84 Toyota 2.4D L series diesel. Lasted about 2000km, warrentied and the second one was making an irregular racket after probably 5000km. I will be pulling it out before winter, dead or otherwise. Don't need that thing failing during a cold snap!! Just my $.02 and thought you should hear my opinion. Good luck!
 

riotwarrior

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OK so after cleaning and prepping the block and block off plate, I installed the fuel pump block off plate.

A NOTE...I HAD TO SHORTEN THE PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS TO WORK WITH THE BLOCK OFF PLATE ABOUT 5/16"-3/8"

pump opening...prior to cleaning
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Nice close up of inside engine,
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cleaned up pretty good...a lil more and I was done!
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I used the Locktite on the LEFT
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Here is my Xylene thinner I use to clean gasket surfaces...and part of the block of plate prepped for install
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Plate/bolts/gasket ready to go...
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installed and all set...I DON'T KNOW IF I MENTIONED IT...I HATE CHROME!
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Now that the pump is out and block is blocked off....I can move on to the lil green pump

Here it's resting in what I think is a good location for this pump, well protected and quite low on the frame, allowing a good siphon of tank!

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it will set about here on the inside of the frame, I'm using it as a guide to mark the one hole I have to drill to mount it...as I used an existing hole for one bolt...Work smarter not harder!
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I stuck this white trim board between the lines and the frame so when I drilled through frame I would not hit the fuel/brake/electrical lines
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Here is the pump with the larger 5/16" bolts instead of those little ones it came with...ugh?
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Pump mounted with lil filter installed on suck side...I then cut the larger plastic feed line attached a rubber fuel line to it and the pump and did same on the outlet end
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Lines attached
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Thats about it, I ran the wire along the main harness up into the cab where I have other wires passing through a rubber grommet. I tied into the main fuse box on the tank select fuse on the KEY ON HOT side and also used a 5 AMP fuse on that line for the pump.

The pump is grounded directly to one of the mounting bolts through the frame with a wire that comes out with the HOT wire.

So then I used 5/16 rubber fuel line from the original steel feed line that fed the stock lift pump, up to the stock filter housing having removed the steel hard line and fittings and adding a 1/4" NPT/5/16" barb fitting in the filter housing.

I was quite pleased when I turned the key....got fuel to filter head. Installed an ATF filled filter, primed and the truck fired up nice!

Thanks for reading

Al
 

Dave Barbieri

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Nice job Al! Thanks for pointing out that Loctite 243 is the one to use around oil. That's good info. Glad you're back on the road! ;Sweet ;Sweet
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Thanks for pointing out that Loctite 243 is the one to use around oil.


YES; THANKS; very good to know.

Before now, I only ever knew that there was the plain old BLUE and RED.

Does that "oil tolerant" mean that it will work when it is not possible to get all the oil cleaned away ??




One more question :

What is the gooey brown stuff smeared on the block-off plate, I assume from the short fat bottle pictured in front of the can of XYLENE ??

Thanks.
 
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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I see the hose-clamps you used are somewhat different from the worm-screw kind that is more common.

Are those clamps specified for fuel-injection hose ??

What are the advantages and dis-advantages of using that particular type clamp in normal fuel-line applications ??

I can see that there are no slots for the rubber to squish through.

I would also think that those clamps would be more size-specific.


I have a bunch of "shielded" worm-style clamps that have a second strip of solid banding spot-welded inside the slotted band; these clamps were specified for use on silicone hose and prevent the hose from squishing through the slots.

Thanks.
 

subway

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i dont want to speak for Al but i grab those style clamps when i can, yes they are more size specific but they fit better and dont splay the rubber nearly as much. think of them more as the band clamps you can get for an exhaust system vs a u bolt clamp, more even distrabution of clamping force. they even have a piece of metal underneath the bolt thread section, this helps keep the sliding section of the clamp that tightens up from digging in.
 

riotwarrior

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Nice job Al! Thanks for pointing out that Loctite 243 is the one to use around oil. That's good info. Glad you're back on the road! ;Sweet ;Sweet

YES; THANKS; very good to know.

Before now, I only ever knew that there was the plain old BLUE and RED.

Does that "oil tolerant" mean that it will work when it is not possible to get all the oil cleaned away ??

Yes that's basically what it means...hence my continued rants on cleanliness....engines and parts must be cleaner than HOSPITAL clean....in order to function correctly. Bodies heal them selves...engines cannot...

Loctite's product description

Loctite 243 Blue Threadlocker is a general-purpose, medium strength threadlocker with improved oil tolerance. For fasteners between 1/4" and 3/4" (6mm to 20mm). Parts can be separated using hand tools. Suggested applications: Rocker studs, rocker adjustment bolts and bolts on valve and cam covers, oil pans, disc brake calipers, intakes and alternators, and pulley assemblies.

One more question :

What is the gooey brown stuff smeared on the block-off plate, I assume from the short fat bottle pictured in front of the can of XYLENE ??

Thanks.

That is my "Elephant snot" or more correctly
http://www.permatex.com/products/au...tex_Aviation_Form-A-Gasket_No_3_Sealant_a.htm

This is one of my primary products I use on gaskets, I have done this ***** for years and find this product amazing. Others here often speak of a product called Hylomar, I myself have not tried it but would like to on a NON critical part and test...that block off plate would have been ideal to test the Hylomar on for me...as it would just be an oil leak no pressure etc. Paint the gasket stick to part...paint the block and stick part on...it's slippy so be careful of gasket slip...it's why you see me with two bolts holding that gasket in place...

Also if you're having issues with corrosion on battery terminals, remove the teminal end...CLEAN thoroughly, paint the bottom side of the terminal with ELEPHANT SNOT...Do not get it inside where terminal makes contact to post, install as normal, then paint the whole terminal and top of post with ELEPHANT SNOT..NO more corrosion issues! Done! and if you use jumper cables that stuff self heals!
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I see the hose-clamps you used are somewhat different from the worm-screw kind that is more common.

Are those clamps specified for fuel-injection hose ??

What are the advantages and dis-advantages of using that particular type clamp in normal fuel-line applications ??

I can see that there are no slots for the rubber to squish through.

I would also think that those clamps would be more size-specific.


I have a bunch of "shielded" worm-style clamps that have a second strip of solid banding spot-welded inside the slotted band; these clamps were specified for use on silicone hose and prevent the hose from squishing through the slots.

Thanks.
Good EYE! yes those are different that worm gear, they provide full contact with hose with little to NO flat spot like a worm gear. If you have a worm gear and your forcing the rubber out the slots, your cranking down a bit to tight IMHO, at most...flush with the clamp not sticking out! These do not cut like worm gear clamps, I'll get a picture when I get back from camping, I have a couple loose on a hose and can show you better what I mean and how they function! Just wait till early next week, I GO CAMPING TODAY!

I guess since you hate chrome spinners would be out of the question? Loll
I'd be dead before a spinner got stuck on my truck...I'll be cutting a piece of 3/8" plate and making a replacement pump block off plate ASAP. It will be drilled and tapped for a return line for a BYPASS oil filtration setup! Plugged to start but ready when I get my bypass setup!

NO CHROME I hate my chrome mirrors and door handles too...HATE CHROME on my stuff....love it on other peoples stuff though...just no my own Ever!
 

Agnem

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I like this write up! Great pics. A couple of things....

The mechanical pump with the bent arm.... That design is much better at preventing the user from installing the pump improperly. The streight arm can be installed much easier on the wrong side of the cam.

The block-off plate.... It's worth everyone noting how close it is to the "ledge" above the machine surface. A lot of Mr. Gasket chrome block off plates will actually catch that edge, which causes them to bend, and potentially leak. Make SURE that your block off plate fits properly like this one does.

The electric pump... Small usually equates to short longevity. Just as a mouse doesn't live as long as a dog... smaller hearts beat faster.

This is going in the tech section.
 
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