h2odrx
Anti-O
It took three tries to get started this morning. Is it bad glows? or tired engine? I didn't let it crank for long but it did not start like normal so i stopped and waited....
Cold starts...OK it's not cold down here...
- Thread starter h2odrx
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h2odrx
Anti-O
No, I just let it cycle and bump the key and normally in 2-3 sec it fires, it was in the 30's and had a nice frozen windshield, come to think of I don't have a fuel heater in my filter. (it was loose) so it got removed when I replaced the fuel pump.
h2odrx
Anti-O
so just a quick bump? it won't fry anything?
I do have Power Service anti-gel in it it was like 8oz to 10 gal.
I do have Power Service anti-gel in it it was like 8oz to 10 gal.
No, take the screwdriver and cross both large terminals on the GPR and hold it there for about 30 seconds or so, you'll get a little arc when you touch the second terminal and be sure you arent getting any part of the screwdriver to ground anywhere else. After your 30 second burn, get in it and crank it.
h2odrx
Anti-O
cool, I'll try it and report the results...
h2odrx
Anti-O
cool, I'll try it and report the results...
Not even so much as a spark across them? Does the key need to be on? Still took 3 tries to fire... so I need a new one?? on second try had smoke from drivers side which confirms and exhaust leak....
geonc
SPIDER BAIT
Not even so much as a spark across them? Does the key need to be on? Still took 3 tries to fire... so I need a new one?? on second try had smoke from drivers side which confirms and exhaust leak....
The relay lugs are constant 12v hot Dwight.
How long is the WTS light staying on?....should be around 10-12 seconds. Anything less and it's time to check the GP's and UVC's.
Do you know how to use a DVM....check the GP ohms by removing the plugs at the VC connectors and look for the outermost pins ---more than 1.0 ohms is most likely shot out.
to say but methinks you valve covers are comming off!The up pipe donughts are a blast [not] with the engine in the frame
I had to replace the block heater element on mine last fri....I have 3 dead GP's
...Not even so much as a spark across them? Does the key need to be on? Still took 3 tries to fire... so I need a new one?? on second try had smoke from drivers side which confirms and exhaust leak....
me thinkst the same....Do you know how to use a DVM....check the GP ohms by removing the plugs at the VC connectors and look for the outermost pins ---more than 1.0 ohms is most likely shot out.
h2odrx
Anti-O
It seems like 15 to 20 to me? The funny thing is the block heater cord was tucked and zip tied away so I don't think the PO ever used it? If I had no spark at the relay what would that mean? I guess I'll have to plug it in tonight and see what happens?
Well, youve got two big terminals on the top of the relay, one goes to a constant hot, the other goes to the glow plug relay harness. Then you have two little terminals that are the power from the PCM to actuate the relay.
Therefore you need to have power on ONE of the big terminals all the time. If you dont then you need to chase that big wire back to its source.
easy to check glow plugs with a test light key off ( clamp light to batt + unplug glow plugs and probe the terminal on top if light comes on (good) if no light ( open ckt=bad ). you can also check cylinder balance or efficiency by measuring glow plug resistance with vehicle running and this can tell you if you have a low or dead cylinder.
h2odrx
Anti-O
I'll look at that, this morning it is 41? wind chill 35, frost on window and 3.86 sec to cycle glows and it fired right up????
geonc
SPIDER BAIT
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