Clutch problem

junk

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Cant you buy a stainless / steel line for a newer truck? 92-97?
 

79jasper

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Yup. Most of the parts stores have it.
The oem one is a low grade stainless. Mine has slight rust on some areas.

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FordIDIot

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at one point i bought clutch hydraulics for a PSD that had a steel line on it.

Ahhh, just found them in Russell. I didnt know that. That will save some time. Thanks
 

jwalterus

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Forgive me, but it's been a few years since I had to mess with my master or slave.....

How are you using those?
 

icanfixall

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Just a note on stainless that rusts.. That is a very low grade stainless called 400 series. You was the better 300 series.309, 312 or 316 is great stainless.Stainless will gauld easily thread to thread so you best use a stainless anti sieze. When you are threading pipe compression threads to threads when its tight allow it to best a few minutes because it gains in heat and when it cools you end up a loose fitting that leaks.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Hey Russ: can you provide some feedback on how adding the braided line makes the clutch feel. Lots in input on hose expansion (many threads on dirt bike front brake "feel" with different products), I'm interested to see if you think there's a lot of difference between the old stock hose and your new -3 braided stuff.
 

typ4

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I will do that when I get it on. But I can tell you with the braided line on my front brakes it will now lock the wheels in a severe panic stop and would NEVER do it with rubber hoses.
 

icanfixall

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I think we all need to change to braided stainless steel lines for safer stopping these rigs.
 

laserjock

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You have to watch Gary. Used to be a lot of the braided lines were not DOT approved. That may not be such an issue these days.
 

typ4

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Well I just got around to swapping out the clutch master and slave.
The master was on the truck when I got it in 2002. It was full of gunk and I think the sleeve may have moved and wasnt dumping the fluid back to resivoir.
So when the engine temp went over 190 fluid would expand ,it would slip under heavy throttle. Brandon confirmed the temp thing.
So installed the slave with a 36inch stainless braid line with a 90 on the slave end, the russell clutch fitting kit. Ran line back from slave and over to fenderwell instead of up over trans like original.

I bled it out without ever getting under the truck, push pedal once the master started pumping, Left pedal on floor,crack fitting at master, let air out, repeated 6 times. Once it Made pressure I installed the custom 2x4 pedal hold tool and a couple more bleeds and good to go.
The clutch engages like it should so far, pedal is close to floor to release/engage whereas it was right at the top before the swap.
I will report back on how it feels with the line.
 
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