rlb245
Full Access Member
First let me apologize for not having any pictures to post with this, but I was pressed for time. I was doing a roof (tare off and replace) at the same time I desided to tackle this problem. It was getting to the point where I couldn't shift without grinding a little. So I ordered the Ford OEM cast aluminum brake and bushings with to new rubber pedal pads.
1. Removed the to lower dash panel's
2. Removed to bolts holding up steering colum and let rest on the set
3. Remove instrument cluster and disconnect all wiring and speedometer cable.
4. Remove the aluminum backed that holds the steering colum up.
5. Unbolt the neutral key switch module from steering colum and move out of the way.
6. Disconnect all electrical wire from bracket. IE = brake switch, cruise control switch
7. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum valve above brake pedal
8. Disconnect both, brake pedal and clutch pedal control rods.
9. Remove the 2 bolts above stirring column
10. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the bracket to the firewall. These 4 bolts are what hold your power backing system on the other side of the firewall.
11. Raise the hod and move the power back system forward until you have enough clearance to manover the bracket past the brake control rod.
12. Push the steering column all the way right and manover the bracket and pedal assembly out from under dash.
I transferred all usable parts to new bracket and installed new bushing and pedal pads.
I installed the bracket in reverse order.
Now I have to get use to the clutch pedal being so high.
Total time 5.5 hrs
There was a half hour spent on repairing pin for the clutch push rod
Welded the worn area then ground and filed it back in to shape. Perfect fit.
This job is a little ******* the back but it went real easy for me. Just make sure you have at least a 16" extintion or 2 8", otherwise your going to wast allot of time on removing the bolts from the bracket. I used air tools so I cheated[emoji15]
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
1. Removed the to lower dash panel's
2. Removed to bolts holding up steering colum and let rest on the set
3. Remove instrument cluster and disconnect all wiring and speedometer cable.
4. Remove the aluminum backed that holds the steering colum up.
5. Unbolt the neutral key switch module from steering colum and move out of the way.
6. Disconnect all electrical wire from bracket. IE = brake switch, cruise control switch
7. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum valve above brake pedal
8. Disconnect both, brake pedal and clutch pedal control rods.
9. Remove the 2 bolts above stirring column
10. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the bracket to the firewall. These 4 bolts are what hold your power backing system on the other side of the firewall.
11. Raise the hod and move the power back system forward until you have enough clearance to manover the bracket past the brake control rod.
12. Push the steering column all the way right and manover the bracket and pedal assembly out from under dash.
I transferred all usable parts to new bracket and installed new bushing and pedal pads.
I installed the bracket in reverse order.
Now I have to get use to the clutch pedal being so high.
Total time 5.5 hrs
There was a half hour spent on repairing pin for the clutch push rod
Welded the worn area then ground and filed it back in to shape. Perfect fit.
This job is a little ******* the back but it went real easy for me. Just make sure you have at least a 16" extintion or 2 8", otherwise your going to wast allot of time on removing the bolts from the bracket. I used air tools so I cheated[emoji15]
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
