Camber Adjustment

[Dummy99]

Is some able to educate me on how alignment is done on these twin I beam axles with kingpins, I am having an issue with camber. The shop I took my truck to for an alignment says I have about +1 driver and +1.7 passenger (Their printer was supposedly broken so can't say for sure)however they've told me there is no way to fix the camber on this axle.

Looking around on here I am having trouble figuring out what info applies to what year axle. Is there a shim on top of the kingpin that can be replaced to correct this or is that only on ball joint trucks? Will the axles need to be bent or does that correct caster?

Thanks!

1986 F250 6.9idi 2wd

 

[TNBrett]

I think I would look at new front springs if I were you. They get weaker over time and when overloaded. Raising the front of the truck back up should help bring the camber closer to where you want it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MtnHaul]

I have seen kits for Dana 60 kingpin axles that are designed to adjust camber but don't know about 2wd axles.

 

[Clb]

Before you jump on the "put new springs on it" bandwagon .....

The Camber cams,and pivot bushings in my <50k ttb were the culprit of decambered tires....,NOT the new springs I put in it to "cure it"!
Find a GOOD alignment shop.
The 2x4 I beams are a bit more work to fix tho.

 

[u2slow]

Pivot bushing is def worth checking.

I don't believe the Kingpin beams have available cam adjusters like the balljoint variety.

 

[rhythim]

The shop manual for the TIB on the '79-earlier trucks actually detailed the use of a contraption to bend/tweak the I-beams for camber adjustment. I haven't seen an alignment shop with one of those in at least 30 years. The '74 F100 2WD I had a few years ago needed to be tweaked for about half a degree, but couldn't find anyone who could do it. I just let it be and lived with it.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[jrollf]

I used to have a 1972 F250 2x4, when I had to fix camber I found out there were 'offset' bushings for the king pins, you might be able to find them for an 86.

Edit, found the adjustable bushings, Moog has them:

https://www.moogparts.com/parts/suspension/alignment-parts/adjustable-bushings.html

Select 1986 Ford F250, then filter on Suspension > Alignment



1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
7.3L IDIT with a Banks Sidewinder
ZF 5-spd manual transmission

 

[franklin2]

Before you jump on the "put new springs on it" bandwagon .....

The Camber cams,and pivot bushings in my <50k ttb were the culprit of decambered tires....,NOT the new springs I put in it to "cure it"!
Find a GOOD alignment shop.
The 2x4 I beams are a bit more work to fix tho.

Ride height would change the camber though wouldn't it?

 

[Clb]

Lots of parameters of alignment do.
My pointnwas the drastic neg. Camber on my d50 was due to both camber adjusters and bad pivot bushes (the latter hits ride height at the bumpstops mostly)the 2x4 will have the same issue's just on the bushes for the i beam and strut rod things and the adjustment gizmos

 

[Slicknik]

@Dummy99 not sure about your year but post a pic of your front end (can’t be much different than the ‘89 or ‘91 I have) looking towards the rear of one side of the truck. But if your plus 1 to 1.7 from the alignment shop that means you have positive camber and need less so swapping springs won’t help,

if you have the twin I beam front end you’ll need to loosen the squeeze bolt on the upper part of the knuckle and then you can rotate the offset hex bushing (camber adjustment nut) which will change your camber. On the top part of the hex should show some numbers for the degree( -/+ ) your looking for .

I wouldn’t go back to that alignment shop they sound unfamiliar with your setup. Need to find one that is familiar with your front end

pic is of an camber adjustment nut that sits in the knuckle

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Dummy99]

Thanks for all of the responses.

I have new shocks, coils, axle pivot bushings, and radius arm bushings installed, why I'm getting the truck aligned lol. The truck is still at that shop since they're closed for the new year but next week I will be moving it to a front end specialist. I'll let them take a look and if I need to provide those shims y'all are showing I will. I will also take pictures of my axle for reference.

I'll give an update when something happens thanks!

 

[franklin2]

He said he has a 2wd with kingpins. Those axles don't have the offset bushings like the balljoint axles do correct? That is why the shop said they can't adjust it. I have heard some shops equipped to do so can bend the axles?

 

[jrollf]

He said he has a 2wd with kingpins. Those axles don't have the offset bushings like the balljoint axles do correct? That is why the shop said they can't adjust it. I have heard some shops equipped to do so can bend the axles?

The offset bushings shown in this thread are for king pins, I used them on my 1972 F250 2 wheel drive with twin I beam and king pins. Moog lists them for 1986 too.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
7.3L IDIT with a Banks Sidewinder
ZF 5-spd manual transmission

 

[david85]

Short Answer:

Camber is not adjustable on a 1980-1986 Twin I-Beam truck.

Long Answer:

Later 1987-up I Beams have balljoins might be adjustable but not the 1980-1986 F250 2wd. These are the true, old-school kingpin knuckles. The beams are also fairly thick when compared to older trucks, so I'm not sure if they can be bent like earlier TIB setups.

My truck usually had about 1 degree of positive camber and other than tweaking the spring height or attempting to bend the beams, there isn't much that can be done about it. It may have actually been intentional by ford in anticipation of payload.

One thing to be careful of is to make sure you check the camber with the wheels resting ON THE GROUND. If you try checking it while supported on jacks, it will induce more positive camber because of the cantilever effect of the setup. Rest the truck on a flat piece of ground, then roll it forward by about 4' with the wheels pointed straight forward. Also, avoid using the front brakes while setting up for the camber test, use the E-brake to stop and secure the truck. That will give you the most accurate reading of the most natural position of the front suspension. Then you can decide if it's worth trying to modify.

I went through this years ago with mine and got it close enough.

 

[Slicknik]

Thanks david for the info ,

but to me being a degree to a degree and a half in the positive direction of camber isn’t really that bad and with everything he has replaced it will eventually wear- in and sag some, (just need to rotate tires sooner ) for alignment “toe” is really what matters.
I really wouldnt sweat it , not worth the risk of trying to get it perfect

“set the toe and let it go”