Building a waterproof truck, Lubercating motors,Cleaning IP.. Seriously?! What else?!

Cruiseomatic

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Did some tinkering and thinkering last night....Thought of some ways to get the problems fixed without the "extreme" measures I thought they were going to take in order to fix them correctly.
So, In the mean time while I wait on the engine on what I want to do with it or get the cash to do it....
I want to make the underhood electrical system waterproof.
I've already got the issues "ironed out". Seriously, Those 2 connectors I asked about before are in the trash. Cut'em off and soldered/heatshrunk the wires together.
And how can I trash those damn fuse links with REAL fuses? I found a few water right fuse panels to replace it with just need current draw on which wire. I HATE fuse links with a passion.

Everything is currently in split conduit and wrapped in electrical tape. All the way from the firewall to the starter solenoid relay. From there I haven't done much because later I'm running a 6 ga wire from that starter relay into the cab for a secondary power distro center and doing a 3g upgrade later and also re-working the GP and engine control harness. Mine is in shambles from age and going to use the key on power from the IP to kick on a relay for an electric fuel pump. Its also going to be tied into the Emergency Kill System I've been working on and a security system.
I don't like the fact all it takes to start this truck is a piece of wire and a screw driver.....My steering wheel doesn't lock and the column is plastic...

Just got a new wiper motor and it was used from a 94 model truck but its also a boneyard find. How can I lube the motor and gears so it'll last longer? It has "Remanufactured" and some code on it. Also on the blower motor, She was whining some and its almost 30 so I want to do the same thing to it. Any any other motors but I don't think I have any but those two. 3-in-1 oil? White lithium grease?

Given we've been flooding when it rains lately, How or what can I use to make all the underhood wires and connections watertight? I don't trust just the tape wrap. Smear RTV all over it by hand? I don't care to much how it looks aslong as it works. Already looking for proper connectors to use. For the headlight wiring, I've already ran 12 and 14 ga. wire to both for the relay mod so the load will not warm up or heat the wires. Other than that, There isn't many if any loads that are too big for the wire. Once the underhood electrical has been waterproofed, I want to do the same for the cab and rest of the truck. At least to the bottom of the door windows or there abouts. I know the rear axle has a vent tube that I need to extend up. I also know I need a snorkel but it can wait for now. What all should I go for or what do I need to do to make this happen? I'm sure the 4X guys have some ideas.

Now for the IP. Given it is nasty cruddy and has "eh" diesel in it, How can I flush the old crap out and the case so that when I'm ready, its ready. Maybe even paint it.

If I'm going to keep this truck, Its going to be ready for anything I throw at it and be what I want. Just to bad its CURRENTLY 2WD and a 250 srw.... Wish it was 4X and a 350 drw so I could use it for my future business.


I'm also thinking of getting an engine from a boneyard and using mine for a real build not just a get it out and back running to go back in.
Thoughts?

Sorry for the loooong post and many questions but since I can't do engine work now, I can do other things in the mean time.
If something doesn't make sense or is out of place, I was up all night thinking and looking what I can do or need.
 
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jwalterus

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dirt every day did a jeep with a cummins to drive underwater, they cleaned and completely filled every electrical connector with dielectric grease :dunno
 

Clb

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harvester never built a sub...
look up swamp buggies. they have it down.
doing boneyard parts as a "rebuild" IS NOT.
NOBODY pulls a good working low mile ip out of service.
re-cutting the mica, turning the armature at the brushes, new bearings/bushes in the bell ends will get you a decent elect. motor (do get some electrosol)
 

Cruiseomatic

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harvester never built a sub...
look up swamp buggies. they have it down.
doing boneyard parts as a "rebuild" IS NOT.
NOBODY pulls a good working low mile ip out of service.
re-cutting the mica, turning the armature at the brushes, new bearings/bushes in the bell ends will get you a decent elect. motor (do get some electrosol)

Either this IDI learns how to swim, or It'll learn how to sink into a large gravel lot.
I'll check out dune buggie elec. systems.
The rest doesn't make sense of I'm missing something.
 

Leroy

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hot glue will make those connections highly water resistant
 

Cruiseomatic

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hot glue will make those connections highly water resistant

And could screw things up. I tried that before. Thanks though. I want to know what happened to CRC's die electric....Stuff went from a grease to a slimy gel...It drips off whatever its on and is terrible....I love the new can but WTH?!
 

Leroy

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i'm not sure .. probably they put their label on some chinese junk like many other do now a days ..
 

Cruiseomatic

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I've been using Delphia Metripack and weatherpack connections for any new wiring I do. Fuse/relay box, any splices or conenctions, etc.. They are sealed. Pack with dielectric grease if you expect they may get submerged. Far superior to the unsealed plugs and crimps Ford used.

Exactly. I think I got it figured out. Weather pack connectors, Die-Electric grease in all connections, and spray all the conduit down with liquid rubber. If it wasn't for the compression splices, I probably wouldn't worry about it but after seeing both ground and hots are like that, I'm not chancing it. Do I plan on taking her for a swim regularly? No, But I want to know that if I have to ford water with my....ford, I can do it and not worry about anything. I got about half the harness done with one can so far. Waiting for it to dry but at $10 a can, it ain't cheap. But, At the same it is cheap insurance. I've been told multiple times my engine isn't as bad as I think so that makes me feel better. But, between the new conduit, wrapped in electric tape, then sprayed down with rubber, and the compression splices have been coated in liquid tape, I'm sure once I'm done, I'll never have a problem with electrical again. And this is just stock. For any accessories, I'm running a new harness. On the firewall plug, I completely filled it with die-electric between the grey retainer and white body, Wrapped it in electric tape, then sprayed it down thoroughly with rubber. Because I by-passed the chassis harness connectors and soldered the wires directly, I'm a bit confined in movement but getting it done.
 

03wr250f

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Word of advice if you are gonna go that in depth to rewire everything I would buy a 6.0 glow plug harness and mate it to your gp harness. Very nice ends looks clean, new rubber so no breaking and cheap!
out of curiosity why are you going throught the lengths to make it water proof? How often do you plan on having this thing underwater?
I have pushed water with my bumper before and the tops of the fenderwells stayed dry. Also my engine bay never gets wet even when raining or anything so why the concern?
 

Cruiseomatic

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6.0 go harness is already on my shopping list for new engine harness. Why so thorough? I don't want to chance a short if the engine does go under. The rubber spray didn't work. Didn't stick for crap.
 

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