Brake Caliper or Hose

adamsanders

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I have experienced a sticking left front caliper a few times in the past couple of months. Both times it has happened while cruising on the interstate seemingly randomly (not after a hard stop or anything). The steering wheel starts shaking and I start to notice a pretty hard pull to left. I get off the interstate, pull over, and the wheel smells strongly of burning brakes and once it was smoking a little bit. I let it sit for a little while, maybe a half hour, and then it is fine for weeks even with me trying to get it to stick by locking the brakes up on purpose. I got a new caliper to put on but I want to make sure this doesn't sound more like a failing flex hose. Any areas to inspect for lack of grease? This did all start to happen after I had the caliper loose to replace the front U-joints and repack the bearings. Thanks
 

79jasper

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Well the easy thing to do would be to crack the hose loose at the caliper when it acts up.
And yes, the slide contact areas.

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snicklas

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I agree with Jasper. Make sure the caliper is free to move on the slides or pins, which ever it has.

I just went through something similar on the Infiniti in my sig. If I had run on the interstate, the right front brake would squeal slightly. If I stopped and the brakes cooled, it wouldn’t squeal. If I didn’t get on the interstate it wouldn’t squeal. Only after being at interstate speeds for a few miles would it make noise.

This truck uses the bolt into a sliding pin caliper attachment. One of the pins was stuck in the caliper bracket. The brake would drag enough that highway speed would generate just enough heat to expand everything and it would squeal. I freed and lubricated the pin, now I don’t have a squeal. Another plus, I gained almost a mile per gallon now the brake isn’t dragging.
 

adamsanders

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Are you guys referring to the two pins with the rubber insert? I replaced these when I had the caliper off but I thought they were simply for keeping the caliper on and I didn't put any grease on them.
 

franklin2

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Are you guys referring to the two pins with the rubber insert? I replaced these when I had the caliper off but I thought they were simply for keeping the caliper on and I didn't put any grease on them.

If you study the caliper, it only has pistons on one side, but it has two brake pads. When the brakes are applied, the piston pushes the one brake pad inward till it hits the rotor, and as it contnues to press inward, the whole complete caliper housing slides on those rubber/metal pins, and that starts applying the brake pad on the other side of the rotor opposite the piston side. So those pin areas need to be cleaned and a little bit of high temp grease or never seize put on them.

You can tell if the caliper has been frozen, one brake pad will be worn more than the other pad.
 

compressionignitionrules

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have you checked the price of the flexline? its probably 1/4 the cost of the caliper................... change it while you have the system open!

if you think the flexline is too expensive , shop around. your truck is 27 year old , a flexline is a small wear and tear item, I bet yours is original?
 

mackinaw80

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From a guy that does a lot of brake work, replace both hoses (rh and lh) and both calipers. It's nearly impossible to tell which is causing your issue. If you do one at a time you will spend all the time/frustration it takes to swap and bleed components. I recommend both calipers because the new one will always work better than the one you don't change and pull to one side when you brake.
 

laserjock

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One of these trucks with a stuck brake caliper?? Who would have guessed that???

If you are changing calipers do the hoses too. Like was mentioned. Too cheap not to.


Hint: anyone who has ever owned one probably would have guessed it.
 
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