Bleeding trailer brakes alone?

chillman88

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This trailer has a 4 pin connector so will need 4 elec brakes (4 on this pig) and elec actuator and updated 7 pin plug?

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Sounds right to me. I assume you have a brake controller in your truck right? Just covering all the bases lol.

As previously mentioned, you might be able to keep your drums and just swap out the backing plates. Don't skimp on the brake power wire though. I've heard 10ga should be used especially having 4 brakes instead of just two. Personally I would run a ground from the brakes to the frame AND the trailer plug, but lots of people just ground them to the frame.
 

snicklas

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Here is my question, can electric brakes be used on a boat trailer? Not trying to be a smart a$$.... but EVERY boat trailer I've ever seen that is equipped with brakes has been surge brakes. Even large boat trailers...... at least that could be towed by a personal vehicle, not talking about a medium duty or semi trailer.

I remember a large cabin cruiser at one lake we went to, like a 25-30 foot length and probably close to 13 feet from the top of the boat to the ground, that was just at the upper limit of being trailer-able. It's trailer had surge brakes, not like the ones that Danielle is working on, it had a large braking system on the frame near one of the axles, but empty, I saw it lock up all 4 wheels with ease.....

Are the electric assemblies (mainly the electro-magnets) rated for submersion? I know that many cargo and camping trailers have electric brakes, but you are not dunking them in the water all the time. Just curious........
 

Danielle

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It does partially suck on a pallet but I can't commit to a place to mount it. I have commitment issues haha

Plus I'm hoping a real machine and balancer are in my future [emoji48]

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G. Mann

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One man bleeding of hydraulic brakes, my way.

I use a cheap [$12 cheap on ebay] electric fuel pump, and cheap clear poly hose from the local Ace hardware. [it's cheap, so get plenty of it, and only use it for one job, brake fluid makes it turn hard, so after the job, pitch it.]

Rig up some 12volt power for the little pump, I like to have a switch in the line, it's handy. Observe which side if the pump is suction, which is discharge..

Open the master cylinder cap. leave it setting loose. Hook the poly clear hose to the brake bleeder farthest from the Master Cyl... turn on the pump and suck out the old fluid... close that bleeder, move to the next bleeder... repeat until ALL the lines are empty and the Master cyl is empty [If the fluid is contaminated bad, I sometimes suck some fresh fluid through the lines to "clear them out". I put the discharge hose from the pump in an old Coke bottle or any container that can be sealed up after and hold the "old brake fluid".

NOW, reverse the pump connections. Use NEW poly hose for this, so it's clean.
Put the pickup hose in a fresh container of brake fluid, Hook the discharge hose from the pump to the brake bleeder [start with the longest line first].

With the Cap setting ON the Master cyl [DO THIS or you will squirt brake fluid all over] turn on the cheap fuel pump, and pump clean brake fluid from the wheel cylinder TO the master cylinder, Just enough so the Master has fluid about 1/4 capacity, Close that bleeder, move to the next, repeat for each wheel cylinder. WATCH how much fluid you put back in the Master cyl.

When you do it this way, reverse of what you are used to. you will find that air wants to travel UP... so as you pump fluid IN the system, from the bottom, it purges the wheel cylinders and the lines of AIR all the way to the Master cyl.
You get a perfect bleed, every time. ONE man [OK, it's a cheat, but much better than a yelling contest with the wife, trying to get her to "pump now".

The pump I have, has been used for the last 20 years doing brakes this way. Hasn't failed yet.
 

Thewespaul

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One man bleeding of hydraulic brakes, my way.

I use a cheap [$12 cheap on ebay] electric fuel pump, and cheap clear poly hose from the local Ace hardware. [it's cheap, so get plenty of it, and only use it for one job, brake fluid makes it turn hard, so after the job, pitch it.]

Rig up some 12volt power for the little pump, I like to have a switch in the line, it's handy. Observe which side if the pump is suction, which is discharge..

Open the master cylinder cap. leave it setting loose. Hook the poly clear hose to the brake bleeder farthest from the Master Cyl... turn on the pump and suck out the old fluid... close that bleeder, move to the next bleeder... repeat until ALL the lines are empty and the Master cyl is empty [If the fluid is contaminated bad, I sometimes suck some fresh fluid through the lines to "clear them out". I put the discharge hose from the pump in an old Coke bottle or any container that can be sealed up after and hold the "old brake fluid".

NOW, reverse the pump connections. Use NEW poly hose for this, so it's clean.
Put the pickup hose in a fresh container of brake fluid, Hook the discharge hose from the pump to the brake bleeder [start with the longest line first].

With the Cap setting ON the Master cyl [DO THIS or you will squirt brake fluid all over] turn on the cheap fuel pump, and pump clean brake fluid from the wheel cylinder TO the master cylinder, Just enough so the Master has fluid about 1/4 capacity, Close that bleeder, move to the next, repeat for each wheel cylinder. WATCH how much fluid you put back in the Master cyl.

When you do it this way, reverse of what you are used to. you will find that air wants to travel UP... so as you pump fluid IN the system, from the bottom, it purges the wheel cylinders and the lines of AIR all the way to the Master cyl.
You get a perfect bleed, every time. ONE man [OK, it's a cheat, but much better than a yelling contest with the wife, trying to get her to "pump now".

The pump I have, has been used for the last 20 years doing brakes this way. Hasn't failed yet.
:hail:hail:hail

Never doing this any other way now, thank you for sharing this.
 

Danielle

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Why didn't I read this sooner!!!! I used my mighty vac and did this by hand until it was clear. I feel like such a dope. I have a little electric pump that would have been perfect for this!!!

Arg

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Big Bart

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I know this thread is very old and Danielle's ship has sailed. But for those who are interested or read this down the line here are some other thoughts.

1) I used to just sqeezed the surge system together with a wratchet strap. Squeezed the surge brake closed, bled, released the strap, re-applied, and bled. Did so till the air was gone, but remember to add brake fluid as you go.

2) Now I use one of these, super easy and fast! Pressurizes the master cylinder and pushes brake fluid down the brake lines. First one is the heavy duty model model I have. (Bought used and it came with the fitting I needed.) Second one is the cheaper chicken plastic version. You will also perhaps need an adapter.

Option A - More expensive Gear Wrench metal diafram one and should last a lifetime.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3...3b948&pd_rd_wg=gn5Em&pd_rd_i=B003U459B8&psc=1

Option B - Less expensive but will last a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...5e8de&pd_rd_wg=BlQnU&pd_rd_i=B00CJ5E1GS&psc=1

You will also need an adapter. So if you have a male top on your master cylinder, a universal kit should do the trick. If you have a female adapter you will need something like option B below.

a) https://www.amazon.com/ARES-12-Piec...50aa6&pd_rd_wg=j2IY6&pd_rd_i=B07JPKZ7WL&psc=1


b) https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...c89BXKZKdsK-9n1tJ0w5kF5qvkxSkXLwaAmmmEALw_wcB

Pressure system is way easier especially if doing so by yourself!
 

compressionignitionrules

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Here is my question, can electric brakes be used on a boat trailer? Not trying to be a smart a$$.... but EVERY boat trailer I've ever seen that is equipped with brakes has been surge brakes. Even large boat trailers...... at least that could be towed by a personal vehicle, not talking about a medium duty or semi trailer.

I remember a large cabin cruiser at one lake we went to, like a 25-30 foot length and probably close to 13 feet from the top of the boat to the ground, that was just at the upper limit of being trailer-able. It's trailer had surge brakes, not like the ones that Danielle is working on, it had a large braking system on the frame near one of the axles, but empty, I saw it lock up all 4 wheels with ease.....

Are the electric assemblies (mainly the electro-magnets) rated for submersion? I know that many cargo and camping trailers have electric brakes, but you are not dunking them in the water all the time. Just curious........

that would be vacuum over hydraulic or even electric over hydraulic. if that big beast would have been surge it would have pulled the tow vehicle right into the water with it! surge only works in forward motion. there is a very good reason why Uhaul asks so many questions when they rent out car transports............ surge brakes were meant for a 5 ton hauling a light trailer behind it. thats all. :Thumbs Up
 

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