BILLOWING white smoke

Kraig

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I am willing to write off the oil cooler. No damage when disassembled and replaced with know good one with IDENTICAL results. Orings looked good when removed. I am still holding pressure even after almost a week so that rules out an egregious leak.
i repressurized it to 15psi and barred the engine to BDC on cyl #7. We'll see what happens.
I am replacing the cup in #7 regardless.
 

greenskeeper

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I am willing to write off the oil cooler. No damage when disassembled and replaced with know good one with IDENTICAL results. Orings looked good when removed. I am still holding pressure even after almost a week so that rules out an egregious leak.
i repressurized it to 15psi and barred the engine to BDC on cyl #7. We'll see what happens.
I am replacing the cup in #7 regardless.
interesting in that the oil cooler would be a direct path for the coolant to flow into the pan
 

greenskeeper

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Oh and I shimmed the armatures.
ok. That rules out an injector reassembly issue. FWIW armatures can be done with the injectors in place.

My 99 has the original injectors after 265k miles and still starts fine down to -20F. Good working glow plug system (and batteries) is the key at those temperatures.
 

Kraig

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I agree. I should have never messed with it. But sadly I did and am now dealing with this dumb issue.
So frustrating.
 

Kraig

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Also if I had a bad oil cooler I would have cross contaminated the oil AND the coolant. Ie coolant in oil and oil in coolant. I have no evidence of oil in the coolant.
So riddle me that lol.
 

Kraig

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I do however think a bad front cover could potentially explain everything except the fact that is was leaking like a sieve and now it's not.
 

greenskeeper

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Also if I had a bad oil cooler I would have cross contaminated the oil AND the coolant. Ie coolant in oil and oil in coolant. I have no evidence of oil in the coolant.
So riddle me that lol.
it's not always both, could be just one fluid in the other. Most of the time it's coolant in the oil rather than the other.
 

greenskeeper

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I do however think a bad front cover could potentially explain everything except the fact that is was leaking like a sieve and now it's not.
Front covers rarely fail, except from poor maintenance (lack of coolant service, etc)
 

greenskeeper

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I agree. I should have never messed with it. But sadly I did and am now dealing with this dumb issue.
So frustrating.
I feel your pain. I still believe it's something to do with the R/R of the injectors since the problem started about 5k miles from doing that. As far as you've said the truck ran great prior to that and wasn't overheated, etc during those 5k miles correct?

Did you confirm all 8 injectors are fully seated? The 120 inch/lbs is on the low side for the injector hold down bolts. I use a 1/4" ratchet in the palm of my hand and give it maximum torque when snugging down injectors.

Cups need to be clean with no residue oil. Most injectors can be seated by hand, some need a very light tap with a rubber mallet.
 

Kraig

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Ok so I left it with pressure all day it went from 15psi to 5psi but with a clean drain pan it couldn't even cover the bottom of the pan. So the leak must be high I'm guessing? But I also barred the engine over four times and got nothing from any glow plugs holes. With the compression of these engines they would have spit something if there was any fluid at all in any cylinder right?
 

greenskeeper

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Ok so I left it with pressure all day it went from 15psi to 5psi but with a clean drain pan it couldn't even cover the bottom of the pan. So the leak must be high I'm guessing? But I also barred the engine over four times and got nothing from any glow plugs holes. With the compression of these engines they would have spit something if there was any fluid at all in any cylinder right?
The piston tops have the dome/crown so fluid could sit in there if turned over by hand. Best bet is to crank it over with the starter and the higher velocity will push out any fluid.

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Kraig

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Ok so news update... with no resolution to this issue I was forced to refill it with oil and coolant. I restarted it and it was only slightly blowing smoke at startup then after a few minutes it BILLLOWS white smoke and it's is very fuelly smelling and will burn your eyes. My oil is also brown and milky but if I had coolant in the oil before I'm sure it would take a few oil changes to get all the moisture out right? So with near co start billowing smoke does that point to anything for anyone?
 

Kraig

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greenskeeper

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Ok so news update... with no resolution to this issue I was forced to refill it with oil and coolant. I restarted it and it was only slightly blowing smoke at startup then after a few minutes it BILLLOWS white smoke and it's is very fuelly smelling and will burn your eyes. My oil is also brown and milky but if I had coolant in the oil before I'm sure it would take a few oil changes to get all the moisture out right? So with near co start billowing smoke does that point to anything for anyone?
Remove the valve covers, get it running. When it starts smoking like hell, disconnect each injector, one at a time, and see if the smoke dissipates. SInce the smoke smells like fuel and not coolant, it's possible an injector is stuck open or has failed.
 
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