Big oil leak into the valley - possible sources?

[paramax55]

I have a giant oil leak that's started recently. I'm thinking it's got something to do with the HPOP. It's a big leak - it looks like the AC dripping water. I loose about a gallon of oil in about 30 miles. Looking under the truck, you can tell it's coming from up top. It's running down the sides of the block and dripping off both sides of the bell housing. It's also hitting the top of the tranny and running down to the back (did I mention it's a big leak?). Looking from the top, the valley has a bunch of oil in it, but it's a mechanical fuel pump truck, so there's a bunch of stuff in the way to see where it's coming from.

My most sure-fire way to find a leak is to clean everything up, then stuff paper towels everywhere that could be a source, then run the truck and pull the towels and see where the wet spot starts. I just need to have an idea as to where to stuff the paper towels. I think the only things that could leak oil into the valley are the valve covers (which wouldn't leak this much oil), the fuel pump (probably also wouldn't leak this much and wouldn't start doing it suddenly), or the HPOP. The motor has about 380k on it and I'm pretty sure the HPOP has never been off. That's my strongest suspect right now.

Any other ideas?

 

[Thewespaul]

Probably hpop, turbo can leak oil as well.

 

[greenskeeper]

Could be turbo pedestal as another possibility.

Clean everything up and then sprinkle baby powder all over the valley....you'll find the source quick.

 

[paramax55]

It's the turbo pedestal. It was obvious once I knew what I was looking for.

 

[greenskeeper]

It's the turbo pedestal. It was obvious once I knew what I was looking for.

While you have the turbo off, if you haven't already, gut the exhaust valve and plug the actuator rod.

 

[79jasper]

Better yet, get a non-ebpv pedestal.

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[paramax55]

I wired the exhaust valve open a ling time ago, but I have considered dealing with the actuator. I'll have to see what I'm dealing with once it's in my hand, but is it as easy as pulling the actuator components and then weld up the hole that the rod came out of?

 

[paramax55]

And, looking at prices, it looks like an OBS aftermarket pedestal is about twice as much as the newer one.

 

[79jasper]

Obs anything is more expensive. Lol
Welding is the best option. Oil soaked aluminum....
I've seen where some people have cut the top of the actuator piston cylinder off. Makes a little more room.
I just tapped and plugged all the holes on mine.

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[paramax55]

Well, I think I'm on the back half of two days of fun. Apparently some good-ol boy had been in there before. Three of the pedestal bolts were loose - like finger tight. The big O-ring was like plastic and the little one was like brand new.

I hate to do it, but I'm going to put it back together with a new HNBR o-ring for the big one and reuse the little one. I've ordered the replacement parts, but I need to make some short trips with the truck before those parts will get here. If I can keep oil in the truck until after new years, I'll be golden.

This job wouldn't have been so impossible if the exhaust bolts weren't so frozen. I've chased the threads (why on earth did Ford use fine threads on the studs and coarse threads on the bolts?) and I'm going to use nevr-seize on the threads. I'm hoping it will be OK for a few hundred miles.

 

[paramax55]

Well... it's definitely different. It's much worse now. Oh well. At least I have everything together and it's all loose to do it in 1 day next time.